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Handle for tools with rectangle tang

Joined
Sep 8, 2020
Messages
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Location
Homosassa, FL.
I just bought a Robust negative rake scraper with a flat rectangular tang & I'm planning on turning my own handle for it.

What's the recommended way to lock in the handle? Round hole w/set screws, flat hole & setscrews or some metal inset with round holes.

I've not seen any inserts specifically for flat tangs.

Thanks for any advice.!

Bob East
 
What I do is drill a hole the size of the tang where 3/4 will be inside the hole.
Measure across the diagonal

Turn the handle fit a ferell.
Place the tang in the hole then hit the bottom of the handle sharply on a bench or a concrete floor. This will seat the tool in the handle and cut/compress corners that make a perfect fit. often no glue will be needed. If the tool ever feels loose hit the bottom of the handle on the bench again. Adding a few drops of thick CA will keep it in place if it persists in coming loose.

This works well. The engineering purists out there make a three part handle with Three strips of wood.
The center strip they band saw a slot to fit the tang glue the pieces together and turn the handle
 
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Drill a hole the size of the thin part of the tang. Heat the end red hot. Let it cool until its a dull red or even no red. Then drive the handle on to it. It will burn the perfect shape. No glue needed. I clamp the tool in my vice with the tip protected by wood and woid or copper on the jaws to protect the tool. Then heat the end.
 
Drill a hole the size of the thin part of the tang. Heat the end red hot. Let it cool until its a dull red or even no red. Then drive the handle on to it. It will burn the perfect shape. No glue needed. I clamp the tool in my vice with the tip protected by wood and woid or copper on the jaws to protect the tool. Then heat the end.
And do this outside, with the wind to your back or side. Don't do it inside. The rush of smoke and hot vapor coming off the wood right into your face can be intense. I've done this same thing recently making carving knives with hickory handles.

If you can find a piece of hardware store "weldable" steel in the same size as your tool, I'd use that for torching rather than your turning tool. If you have any slop in the fit afterward, fill the gaps with epoxy.

See the tip in this video from Richard Raffan as he makes a tool handle. He grinds a 3-facet spike end on the tool shaft to bite into the wood handle.
View: https://youtu.be/ZJwDeu0rh-Q?si=2TDaeqv9NDKChNl6
 
I’ve not had any problems with commercial wooden handles. I’ve also removed tools from the handle to make sharpening easier and they were still fine after just tapping them back in the handle. Maybe I’ve been lucky or maybe you’re over thinking things, but good to ask.
 
I agree with the Joel, John & Hockenberry .. I think too much is invested in having the tool really securely fitting the handle.. but I think the handle is more for comfort and ease of control - not meant to be structural (like a screwdriver handle needs to withstand torque) tools with tangs can just as easily be used without handles at all (or typically should be able to be) - if they are being subject to a lot of leverage forces, - especially those with flat tangs (other than maybe scrapers and hollowing tools?), then the real issue is with the user, and not with the tool or its handle.. so for most tanged tools (most that I can think of outside of box scrapers and the like.) they typically don't ever see much in the way of overhang , and thus little to no leverage, so the tool handle would be more just for the comfort of the user.

I recently got a new D-Way skew and have yet to make a handle for it, but even without the handle, have been using it and it works beautifully.... At some point I'll make a handle more just for comfort of my hands, but plan to just drill a hole for the tang just bit smaller than tang width and just drive it in , with a ferrule in place to keep handle from splitting. I would not expect it to need anything more secure than that. Of course, for hollowing tools and bowl gouges and scrapers, I deal with that differently as the handle also adds to leverage control when the tool has to extend further out over the tool rest... so those are treated differently...
 
I usually drill a hole a bit smaller than the thickest piece of the tang, then put the tang in the hole and whack the other end with a mallet until its tight.
If you want a closer fit, you could try burning it in. A bit like this:
View: https://youtu.be/ewlTIu0fXAY
 
I’ve done what @hockenbery and @john lucas describe, both work well. I’ve also cut a dowel in two pieces and trimmed to fit in the gap - it works but isn’t needed. There’s no need to make multi-piece handles with a flat hole, but it works well.

Some of my scrapers are easier to sharpen without a handle. I have several of them in handles using these aluminum tool adapters from Cindy Drozda, or you can make them. Use these adapters for all my 5/8” bowl gouges for the same reason.

 
I usually drill a hole a bit smaller than the thickest piece of the tang, then put the tang in the hole and whack the other end with a mallet until its tight.
If you want a closer fit, you could try burning it in. A bit like this:
View: https://youtu.be/ewlTIu0fXAY
I did this exact same thing 3 times last week. Smokin'!
 
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