Help please - new lathe spindle wobble

[Steve Appling]

I would appreciate some help. I'm a complete newbie. I took a class, got the turning bug, and began looking for a good deal on a lathe. I bought my first lathe, a Jet 1221vs on Facebook marketplace and thought I got a great deal. I may have figured out why.

When attempting to turn my first spindle piece, I rounded it, cut a tenon, and put it in a chuck. It really seemed to wobble. After more investigation, I see the chuck is at a slight angle. I placed the tool rest very close and parallel to the side of the chuck. As I rotate the chuck, I see the angle of the chuck change

Now that I have it home and look more carefully, I also see that the threads on the spindle are messed up. I understand from the post here, that it is normal for the first couple of threads on the Jet spindle to be flattened like this, but I'm not clear if these threads are right. I can't actually thread either of the chucks I have completely onto the spindle.

I'm guessing that:

1. The threads might be messed up
2. The spindle is warped in some way
3. The bearings are messed up

Any thoughts? Should I just get a replacement spindle and bearings?

 

[Gary Beasley]

Those threads are ruined. The chuck wobbles because it is not completely seated. Running a die to clean up the threads might help but in the long run you need a new spindle.

 

[Sam Fleisher]

I'm somewhat of a newbie as well so take what I say with a grain of salt.

It looks in the first two pics that the chuck is not screwed all the way onto the spindle?

If it were mine I would take a file and try to clean up the threads and try to get the chuck all the way on. That will straighten it hopefully.

Maybe the spindle needs replacing? But at this point what do you have to lose?

Ya, what he said, he beat me to it.

 

[Steve Appling]

Those threads are ruined. The chuck wobbles because it is not completely seated. Running a die to clean up the threads might help but in the long run you need a new spindle.

Thanks - I suspected as much since I can't screw the chuck all the way on. Now on to the adventure of replacing a spindle.

 

[Jim Reynolds]

You might find this You Tube video helpful. It shows a spindle replacement on a Jet 1221VS.

 

[Richard Coers]

Threads should never have flattened crests unless they are Acme threads

 

[Tim Hunter]

Obviously the thread crests have been trashed (likely by a set screw someone forgot to revove). In your third picture, the third thread from the end is deformed on the right side and is likely what is preventing the chuck from seating against the spindle shoulder. Clean it up with a triangle file and get the chuck to seat against the shoulder and it will likley run much better.

Tim

 

[Dean Center]

I have had 2 experiences similar to yours. Due to a monster catch I had when beginning to turn, the spindle on my Jet 1014 got bent and had to be replaced. This was a surprisingly simple procedure for someone with no experience. The new spindle was tolerably pricey.

When I bought a used Powermatic 3520, the chuck wouldn't screw all the way on. With the help of the folks on this forum, I cleaned up the threads with a triangular file and fixed the problem. Also surprisingly simple, if you are careful.

Maybe it's the camera angle, but your third photo looks to my eye like the threaded portion of the spindle is at an angle from the shoulder. If this is the case, the spindle is toast and you can learn for yourself how easy it is to replace.

 

[robo hippy]

Well, not sure, but those threads may be able to be fixed by a machine shop. One thread in particular looks VERY bad. The chuck has to seat against the headstock, and must be flush. It may just take a bit of filing with a triangle file or saw sharpening file. Don't really know.

robo hippy

 

[Wyatt Holm]

Sounds like you need a new spindle. It may be worth replacing the bearing while you're at it. I would search the numbers on the bearings, because it is probably standard size and you won't need oem.

 

[Bob Brown]

Do you know a good machinist? You have to take the spindle out either way ,but a good machinist might be able to true it up. I had one do it to a kelton off set chuck. As Wyatt said replace bearings also. JMO

 

[Leo Van Der Loo]

I had a lathe that came with a steel spacer to be used if a chuck or faceplate was not seated solidly against the spindle shoulder. (longer spindle than usual)
I believe you could use this to get your chuck to seat properly, easier and less costly than going to a machine shop.
Also the thread on the spindle can be repaired with a file ( there are thread files to do just this )

 

[Doug Freeman]

No reason to replace, or even remove the spindle. Those threads can be filed to work just fine, just take it slow with the filing, and use a file of appropriate size. Spindles are soft steel and easy to file (I have experience unfortunately). There will be plenty of thread engagement to hold chucks etc on the spindle safely.

As others noted the chuck must seat against the shoulder. The only time a spacer should be used on the spindle shoulder is if the spindle is too long and bottoms out in the threaded hole, and in such a case the interference should be addressed on the accessory item if possible vs using a spacer.

 

[Brent@TurnRobust]

This spindle is goofed up enough that filing the threads may be a futile exercise, unless the original poster is experienced in this. If he was experienced, he wouldn't have made the posting. I think it's a bit to far gone to try filing also, as the threads are sufficiently buggered as to keep the file tracking true difficult. I'd try a rethreading die first. The threads at the very nose are still pretty good, and a rethreading die would get established on those before getting to the damaged area.

Here is one of many examples available online: https://www.amazon.com/CARBON-STEEL...&sprefix=1+x+8+rethreading+die,aps,138&sr=8-6

Rethreading dies are hexagonal instead of round, so that you can use a big crescent wrench on them. If you go page three of this document: https://www.turnrobust.com/lathe-maintenence/ I discuss using a file or a die to clean up spindle threads. If all else fails, a replacement spindle is in order. Yes, do the bearings while you're at it.

 

[Pat Cogdal]

I would appreciate some help. I'm a complete newbie. I took a class, got the turning bug, and began looking for a good deal on a lathe. I bought my first lathe, a Jet 1221vs on Facebook marketplace and thought I got a great deal. I may have figured out why.

When attempting to turn my first spindle piece, I rounded it, cut a tenon, and put it in a chuck. It really seemed to wobble. After more investigation, I see the chuck is at a slight angle. I placed the tool rest very close and parallel to the side of the chuck. As I rotate the chuck, I see the angle of the chuck change

Now that I have it home and look more carefully, I also see that the threads on the spindle are messed up. I understand from the post here, that it is normal for the first couple of threads on the Jet spindle to be flattened like this, but I'm not clear if these threads are right. I can't actually thread either of the chucks I have completely onto the spindle.

I'm guessing that:

1. The threads might be messed up
2. The spindle is warped in some way
3. The bearings are messed up

Any thoughts? Should I just get a replacement spindle and bearings?

When I first started turning I made the set screw error and wrecked the threads on my Jet 1221, Bought a replacement spindle and swapped it out. Still running true 10 years later

 

[Bill Blasic]

Listen to Brent, those threads are just a waste of time to mess with. Bite the bullet and get a new spindle you will be further ahead in the long run.

 

[Tim Hunter]

Nonsense. I could have restored that thread to usable condition ten time in the time this thread has taken. A new spindle can come with time. But it could have been running true day-one. You guys need to come over to OWWM.org and learn how to repair your equipment.

Tim

 

[Bill Blasic]

No matter how good you think you can fix that you're still only going to have 3 full threads, if that was good enough they would come with just 3 full threads instead of 7 or 8 threads. Plus if he changes the bearing along with the new shaft he has a brand new lathe.

 

[Leo Van Der Loo]

Some manufacturers will leave face plates and inserts without threads in the end of heir products to accommodate the fitting on spindles that have no treads on the last part of the spindle before the shoulder, ( some as seen below).


A special small faceplate I made myself for some project does show the gap it had without a spacer , (that I used ) or I had to machine the threads out, which I could have done, but just not needed, the spacer worked just fine.

 

[Steve Appling]

Thank you all for the suggestions and help. It's fixed!

Not only were the threads in bad shape, but I believe there was something else wrong with either the spindle or the bearings. With just the drive center in the spindle, I put the tool rest against the edge of the drive center and could see it slightly shifting as I rotated the spindle. Replaced the bearings and spindle and that seemed to fix everything!

FWIW, the Jet 1221vs spindle does come with the first few threads flattened out - presumably for a set screw. Here's a picture of the brand new replacement part.

 

[John K Jordan]

Excellent! Was it tedious to replace the spindle? Any advice for others? (just wondering, I don't have that lathe.)
I'm sure there were more than a few who didn't like the look of the damaged threads.

If you use the locking screw to hold the chuck on, perhaps for turning a bowl in reverse, maybe try a method I've used for years to remind me of something - add a piece of bright green masking tape, maybe with a word or arrow, where it would be hard to miss. This is the tape I use for such things and others (shop labels, to secure things, even freezer labels) - sticks to almost anything. I keep it in different widths in the house and shop.

Amazon.com

JKJ

 

[Bill Blasic]

I'm pretty sure that anyone who forgot to loosen or on a brand new lathe did not know the face plate was held with that grub screw and tried to unscrew the chuck or face plate without loosening the grub screw would probably never ever forget about that grub screw. Don't ask as to how I know

 

[Tim Hunter]

Turning in reverse with a set screw is a bad idea to begin with (sanding can be tolerable). Some will say, “Oh, I’ve done it for years” or “…use a brass slug”, but it’s still a bad idea. And getting agressive or a catch can result in damaged spindle threads. Inexperienced turners are most at risk when they “learn” about it, but don’t know to be cautious and tear up their spindles.

Tim

 

[Jerry Maske]

Since I'm having the same kind of problem, I'll toss in my $0.02 worth.

My lathe is a Jet 1642 with the threads slightly boogied up closest to the power head. Seems to have been from my early days when I used a grub screw for reverse sanding. Don't do that much and still get a pretty good finish.

Anyway, I took a thin metal file and set it on the goofy part with the lathe running slowly. Got things straightened out well enough that I won't hesitate to keep the lathe in use as a lathe and NOT a boat anchor. I'm going to prowl around town and see if there might be a machinist who might be able to make a new spindle. He'd have to know how lathes work first and that may be a rare quality. I will keep at it.

 

[Wyatt Holm]

I sand in reverse, and occasionally turn in reverse. I never use a set screw to lock it in place.

 

[Doug Freeman]

Turning in reverse with a set screw is a bad idea to begin with (sanding can be tolerable). Some will say, “Oh, I’ve done it for years” or “…use a brass slug”, but it’s still a bad idea. And getting agressive or a catch can result in damaged spindle threads

I sand in reverse, and occasionally turn in reverse. I never use a set screw to lock it in place.

I regularly turn in reverse for hollowing (on my way to start on a new piece), and have the e-brake on my Nova always on (faster stops for inspection). Both need a set screw to ensure the chuck stays on. I have had chucks with a piece gripped unscrew completely from the spindle when stopping. I use the “wrist flick” seating of the chuck - insufficient for even medium sized work, especially if it is wet. Yes, I’ve damaged the threads some - not a big deal, file quickly takes care of it.

I now remove the sharp lip on the end of the set screw so it does not leave a cut mark in the spindle.

 

[Steve Appling]

Since I'm having the same kind of problem, I'll toss in my $0.02 worth.

My lathe is a Jet 1642 with the threads slightly boogied up closest to the power head. Seems to have been from my early days when I used a grub screw for reverse sanding. Don't do that much and still get a pretty good finish.

Anyway, I took a thin metal file and set it on the goofy part with the lathe running slowly. Got things straightened out well enough that I won't hesitate to keep the lathe in use as a lathe and NOT a boat anchor. I'm going to prowl around town and see if there might be a machinist who might be able to make a new spindle. He'd have to know how lathes work first and that may be a rare quality. I will keep at it.

FWIW, I was able to buy a new replacement spindle from https://www.ereplacementparts.com/. Took only 3 days. Replacing the spindle and bearings only took about 30 minutes. The video shared in another post on this thread was helpful

 

[Steve Appling]

Excellent! Was it tedious to replace the spindle? Any advice for others? (just wondering, I don't have that lathe.)
I'm sure there were more than a few who didn't like the look of the damaged threads.

If you use the locking screw to hold the chuck on, perhaps for turning a bowl in reverse, maybe try a method I've used for years to remind me of something - add a piece of bright green masking tape, maybe with a word or arrow, where it would be hard to miss. This is the tape I use for such things and others (shop labels, to secure things, even freezer labels) - sticks to almost anything. I keep it in different widths in the house and shop.

Amazon.com

JKJ

Replacing the spindle was not very hard. Took about 30 minutes. The YouTube video shared above was helpful. My only other advice is to take a lot of pictures of the spindle assembly at various disassembly steps. My biggest slowdown was trying to rewatch a section of that video to determine the proper orientation of one of the parts when reassembling since I couldn’t tell once disassembled.

I assume the previous owner had tried to remove the chunk without removing the locking screw. I’m not as clear how he managed to mess up the bearings, perhaps hammering a piece onto the drive center.

 

[John K Jordan]

I sand in reverse, and occasionally turn in reverse. I never use a set screw to lock it in place.

Same here - in over 2 decades of turning have never once loosened a chuck except on purpose. I also turn and sand in reverse. (Have special tools for reverse turning.) Never once used the set screw. It might help if recommendations about work methods in woodturning were accompanied by context.

Some things:

1. I fasten the chuck with my custom, non-patented wrist flick method. Requires a wrench to remove it.
2. My VFD lathes are set for the default 5-second acceleration/deceleration.
3. I don't often turn big stock for big bowls. Turn my share of moderate sized smaller bowls and platters and lots of even smaller stuff.
4. No turning speed contests. No catches allowed. Finesse trumps force.

JKJ

 

[Wyatt Holm]

Thanks John, I do the same.