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Honey Dipper

B

Bob Briggs

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Nov 25, 2008
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I'd like information on making a honey dipper. For example designs and shaping procedure. I presume after the wood is shaped the last cuts are made with a parting tool. I'd also like help in what type of wood is best. Thanks.
 
Nick Cook is the master of these. he has some great articles on his website www.nickcookwoodturner.com but I didn't see the honey dipper. I think he uses Maple and you are correct you cut the slots with a parting tool. One of the grooved parting tools works best because it leaves cleaner sides on the cut. If you use a regular parting tool you can sand the slots a little by wrapping sandpaper around a thin stick or piece of metal.
 
Dear John,
Nick Cook mentions honey dippers, but indeed doesn't tell anything about it. I sent him an email to see if he would tell something about them.

Thanks for the information on the grooved parting tool. I will need to look into that.

Thanks for your help.

Bob
 
Honey Dippers

Ken,
Thanks for the pictures. i can make some plans off them I think.

Thanks for your help.

Bob
 
It doesn't even need to be as formal as making plans -- it is one of those things that you can "design" on the fly. Uhhhh ..... maybe "fly" is not the right word to use when talking about honey. :D With honey dippers, design opportunities abound.
 
Bob, here's a basic outline on turning a honey dipper:
  • Start with a 3/4" to 1" square piece of hardwood, 6-8" long. Mark and punch center on the tailstock end, and on the headstock end if you will use a prong drive. Alternative: grip with a 4-jaw scroll chuck, allow about an inch for waste.
  • Mount between centers, or in chuck with tailstock support. Turn square to round with your favorite spindle gouge.
  • Since I use a scroll chuck, I prefer to have the handle end at the tailstock so I can concentrate on the handle's detail without concern of my fingers or the tools getting too close to the chuck. I turn the handle and part of the stem so that the first half of the dipper on the tailstock end is completely finished before progressing on to the second half.
  • Turn the dipper end to final shape and diameter, then with a 1/8" parting chisel, cut 4-5 grooves leaving about 1/8"-5/32" of wood between each one and a center section of about 1/4" diameter.
  • Finish turn the stem between the dipper end and the handle.
  • Start the parting cut at the headstock end, getting the shape of the dipper's end defined but leaving enough wood to be able to sand the dipper on the lathe.
  • Spin-sand the dipper on the lathe, using a slow speed of about 500 rpm, or 300 rpm if your lathe can get that low. Higher sanding speeds can generate enough heat to actually burn your fingers, and do weird things to the wood.
  • Turn the speed back up and finish up the tailstock end if needed, then part off the other end so all that is needed is a little hand sanding at each end.
I don't put a finish on my dippers, but that is entirely your choice. Any food-safe finish will do, or bare wood is fine.
 
Bob,
There are two sources for DVD's that covers it. One is Alan Lacer's Son of Skew dvd where the only thing that is used is a skew. The slots are cut in as a "v" cut. It adds a different look, a little more "fine crafted" than a parting tool cut. There's nothing wrong with that though either. I make them both ways. One way I use as a "production" technique and the other is more of a "individual" technique. Palmer Sharpless used the "v" cut notches.

The other source is a Jet DVD on "lathes". Any jet distributor should have the DVD. There's a place locally that sells them for $8-9. It's a steal since it's at least an hour long and completely done by Nick Cook. His honey dippers are one of the projects that are covered in depth.

Hope that helps.
 
Bob, Ken's instructions will get you to where you want to be. However, I find that a very light cut with the skew after cutting the grooves gives them really sharp corners that require almost no sanding if you have any tearout at all.
 
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