How to make best use of this tree

[George Pagliarulo]

Hi,
I am going to be taking down the tree in the photo. It is an old Higan Cherry that is dying. The Higan was grafted onto a rootstock and that is what the trunk is. I don’t know what the rootstock is. When I look at it all I see is turning blanks.
I will have a tree company take it down. I am going to tell them to cut it as close to the ground as possible and leave the section between the lines on the photo. I’d love to cut the trunk (B in the photo) into slabs but that probably won’t happen. I’ve never done anything like this so I’m looking for advice on how best to cut this wood.
- What is the best way to cut section A in the photo into blanks?
- I have a chainsaw but not big enough to handle the trunk. Should I have the tree company cut the trunk into rounds? How big?
- Does it look like the circled crotch in the other photo would make a good blank?
- This is a lot of wood. What is the best way to preserve the wood until it gets turned?
- Am I trying to do too much?

Any advice is appreciated.
Thanks,

 

[Gerald Lawrence]

The A will need several rip cuts and make as many blanks. As to the Crotch I do not think it large enough to make a crotch bowl. The trunk will need to be ripped to cut the pith out, you could leave it as a log but ripped in half. seal the cut ends with wax, PVA glue, Anchorseal or the like immediately after cutting. Turn as much as you can while it is fresh.

 

[Dean Center]

Tree guys are usually really nice, curious, helpful guys. Most of the time, they ask us how long we want the pieces. If you don't specify the length, they will often cut into firewood lengths, typically 16", which is often not ideal. They will also usually cut branches off too close to the crotch, so you'll need to emphasize that you want 4-6"+ of length in them. (You can always make them smaller, but you absolutely don't want them short--when they dry they will crack down into the crotch.

You did not specify the diameters of the trunk and branches, so as a generalization, anything larger than 10" diameter is usable. Some people would say 8" for fruitwood. Depending on how quickly you can get to the chunks and the size of your lathe, I would generally have the tree guys cut the trunk into lengths about 2-4" longer than the diameter. Also, I would move the dividing line between A and B down a bit, as you should have just a bit more length there to prevent cracking into the good part at the bottom of the crotch, as with the branches.

Cherry has a tendency to crack readily as it dries, so be ready to rough turn or coat the cut ends with a sealant, like Anchorseal, PVA glue, possibly latex paint.

Lastly, contact your local woodturning club. Somebody in it will be happy to come over and help you learn how to part it out, in exchange for some wood. BTW, once you know how, it is possible to crosscut a log with a diameter longer than your bar--your saw may be more capable than you realize.

 

[George Pagliarulo]

Thanks for the replies. I won’t be taking this tree down for a while,probably a year. Turns out I will be getting rotator cuff surgery in two weeks and won’t be turning or much of anything with my left arm for almost a year.
Arggghh

 

[John Tisdale]

You guys in the Northeast get all the cool stuff, except mesquite.
QUESTION: Do you have a big lathe? Are you a hollow-former? If "yes" to both, I have to assume you have the necessary toys to handle big logs.
To answer you question, the bottom of "A" is primo - it will have the most curl and quilt. If not equipped to do large hollow-forms, below the crotches will have lots of feather-grain.
Don't get in a hurry: 1) turn roughs when fresh-cut and 2) bag/seal and slowly dry for several months
And whatever you skill-level with a chainsaw, after this, you'll be an expert.