Is an inexpensive chainsaw a bad choice?

[Webb Willmott]

I can buy 4 60cc 20” cheap saws for the price of a Stihl or Husky and can consider them disposable as opposed to servicing a more expensive saw at $100+ per hour and plus parts.

Good or bad choice?

 

[Doug Freeman]

Good question, interested to here from folks that have had the ~$125 saw. There are many more of those available today than 10 yrs ago when I bought a Jonsered (which has been a good one).

 

[Brian Gustin]

I can buy 4 60cc 20” cheap saws for the price of a Stihl or Husky and can consider them disposable as opposed to servicing a more expensive saw at $100+ per hour and plus parts.

Good or bad choice?

Depends. - A lot can depend on how often it may be used, and how "savvy" you are (They want you to run 25:1 mix , but that tends to assume a non-chainsaw oil... I run a 50:1 mix oil mixed at closer to a 40:1 mix ratio) Be aware, they are gas hogs - you'll use 3 times as much fuel to do the same work. (can you tell I got one? a Dereal brand) However, for the amount of use I put on one, it'll probably last as long as I do... If I was going to be out cutting (I.E. Firewood) near daily basis all day long, I'd spend for the known brand (Echo is my preferred brand, BTW, I'd splurge on a CS-590 Timberwolf, or a CS-680)

 

[Nate Hawkes]

You have to consider how much it costs, and how much you're willing to put up with in terms of servicing. For example, I own a commercial Stihl MS-361. In the time I've owned it, I've put hundreds of hours on it. I have replaced the air filter and spark plugs, and sprocket gears. All wearable parts, and quite inexpensive. My father has gone through two farmboss Stihl saws. He ended up spending more on two saws than I did for my one commercial saw. I realize you're not trying to spend $700 on a saw, but I would buy it again.

 

[john lucas]

I have found cheap saws hard to start. My husky has always started easily.

 

[Dwayne Watt]

The question in my mind becomes whether or not you want to be disposing of a saw the day you really, really need it. Low end chainsaws tend to be finicky (even so called name brands). An upper grade consumer saw from Stihl would be my choice for occasional wood cutting for turning or firewood. I gave away a low end, nearly new Echo I bought at an estate sale (pure trash, the saw, not the sale) that simply was not worth the constant irritation of fighting to get it started and running for the occasional needs I have.

 

[Dave Hulett]

I've been using an Oregan electric saw for years. I love it. no maintenance, always starts, just plug in pull the trigger. has a built in sharpening system that really works. $125 on amazon.

 

[Kevin Jenness]

Interesting ethical question. 4 clones made in China with a xx% likelihood of working as well as a name brand made in the EU or Japan under relatively strict manufacturing, labor and environmental standards. It probably pencils out for the occasional user if you ignore externalities. How do you feel about disposing of xx chainsaws that don't work out because you opted for the cheap ones? Are you up for buying one at a time, shitcanning it if it doesn't pan out and doing it again?

 

[Webb Willmott]

Husqvarna has 6 plants and Stihl has 2 plants in China which manufacture some saw models and saw parts used in production in other countries. It is an interesting ethical question without a clear answer.

I have no issues replacing an item that is intended to be disposable. I’m curious if the cheapie is junk or decent value when you consider it a disposable item.

 

[Steve Tiedman]

Sometimes it's the little things about a cheap engine-type power tool that makes it junk in the end for anyone, but in particular it's market audience. Little things, like tiny oil reservoirs that crack and leak in the first few months, had one of those once. Or chain tensioners that need constant tention attention (as is the case in my otherwise great electric Oregon corded electric chain saw, made in China). My now 20+ yo Stihl 290 Farm Boss, it just runs, even if I don't use it very much at all these days.

 

[Bill Blasic]

Chainsaws are like lathes, I suggest you buy your last lathe first and the same goes for chainsaws.

 

[Kevin Jenness]

I have no issues replacing an item that is intended to be disposable.

Regarding a substantial tool like a chainsaw as disposable doesn't sit right with me. I prefer to invest in tools designed to be reliable and repairable, not dumped in a landfill when their components give out. Just my $.02.

From a strict financial perspective the clones are probably a good deal on balance for an infrequent user. The good units seem to do the job at an attractive price. If you can get a good one out of every two or three and each one is 1/4 the cost of a name brand then you are ahead of the game.

 

[Webb Willmott]

Regarding a substantial tool like a chainsaw as disposable doesn't sit right with me. I prefer to invest in tools designed to be reliable and repairable, not dumped in a landfill when their components give out.

I absolutely agree. I would much prefer to place my hands on a better quality tool but more importantly I expect that tool to meet my expectations. If it meets or exceeds, I’m good and will toss without remorse when the time comes. Or better yet and leave it on the curb so one man can find a treasure that was my junk.

 

[robo hippy]

My first chainsaw was a Husky 365 or some number like that. I think I paid $400 or so for it. I needed a tune up and took it in and was told parts were months out, and would be about $400. Since it was 30 years old, I figured I could get a new one since I needed it right away. New one was over $1000! Same Husky model. My bar was new so I didn't have to pay for that. I did find out that it started differently. I traced the problem to the clear gas I was using. The price at the station had gone down, as had the octane level. I went back up to the higher octane and starting problems were gone. If you only use one in the shop, then an electric can be handy, and they have come a LONG way since I bought one, 20 or so years ago. Even the cordless ones are pretty good now. Check out Project Farm for tool reviews on cordless and corded saws. I will stick with my Husky. Many prefer Stihl. I see both a lot when watching arborists.

robo hippy

 

[Richard Coers]

I can buy 4 60cc 20” cheap saws for the price of a Stihl or Husky and can consider them disposable as opposed to servicing a more expensive saw at $100+ per hour and plus parts.

Good or bad choice?

Definitely bad for me, but I have no idea how much you use one. My old Stihl Farm Boss is at least 25 years old and has never been back to the shop.

 

[hockenbery]

I can buy 4 60cc 20” cheap saws for the price of a Stihl or Husky and can consider them disposable as opposed to servicing a more expensive saw at $100+ per hour and plus parts.

Good or bad choice?

Different tree removal crews I’m familiar with use either the throw away saws or the run forever Stihl products.
The advantage the tree removal crews have is they have backup saws on the truck.

I’d go with Stihl. If you use ethanol free gas the maintenance on the saw is pretty minimal.

As needed new sprocket, spark plug, air filter, fuel filter, new bar.
Unless you cut a lot these are once a year jobs maybe every 2 years.
If you can operate a wrench and a screw driver you can do the maintenance.

 

[John K Jordan]

Depends. - A lot can depend on how often it may be used, and how "savvy" you are

I agree with this - how much use is expected and how good you are at taking care of it. I have 4 Stihls (one corded electric) and used to do a LOT of chainsawing. All have served me well - reliable, always start easily. I do my own service (I found a good general chainsaw book with a chapter specific to Stihls.

However, I have friends who saw more casually and they are happy with cheap saws but I think good care is important, even with a pro saw.

Use the good fuel, good oil at the right mix, keep the air filter clean (replace as needed) and clean the spark plug. Also, pay attention to the chain and sprocket, keep good chain oil in the tank. ALSO check that the oil is getting to the chain every time the saw is started - that the pump is not clogged with dirt/sawdust (clean the outside before removing the cap.)

Another thing I do is flip the bar occasionally to even the wear, file the bar to smooth as needed, and make sure the chain is not too loose in the rail from wear (I use a rail closer tool to tighten as needed). Also, check for wear on the sprocket as the chain ages and stretches. I tend to by sets of good chains and bars from Bailey’s Online.

Note that if a saw starts getting “cranky” it is usually pretty cheap to replace the carb.

I recently bought a couple of cordless electric Milwaukee saws, one a pole saw, for quick and “casual” sawing. What a great convenience!

JKJ

 

[David Shumaker]

Thats a great question. The chainsaws I use are a Stihl 064 and a Stihl 880. The 880 is used in a mill exclusively. Neither saw has given me any trouble or failed to start even after sitting for extended periods of time, The 064 was used routinely for cutting firewood for years. Both were purchased used at a savings from new. Considering the amount of work both have done I consider that money well spent, When the country "closed up" for covid I bought a clone 660 kit for less than $300. I put it together mostly as an exersize in learning small engine repair. It has not been a consistently reliable saw but since I assembled it perhaps the fault lies with me. It has helped me learn a bit about repairing small engines. That being said, I don't think that the savings on initial cost has outweighed the frustration of having a saw that may run well all day or may not. In my opinion the money would be better spent on a reliable saw from a reputable manufacturer that will not let you down if you by chance find a highly figured maple at the local log dump.

 

[Cary Hulse]

A couple of thoughts on this:

• The best brand is the one you can get quality service for. I've used both Husky and Stihl (and a few others) in a pro setting (logger and arborist) and they all make good saws. Moore important is having a trusted saw shop that can get you parts quickly. When I was logging in my youth, I had one of my saws fail to start one day (bad ignition module) and my local shop, knowing I made a living with my saw, pulled the part out of a new saw on the showroom floor just to get be back to work that morning. Customer for life (or at least until I moved away).
• Second thing to consider is that the big brands make both pro saws and homeowner saws. Nothing wrong with a homeowner grade saw as long as your expectations and intended usage suits it. But you get what you pay for.

 

[Darryl Fective]

I heat with wood, plus we are on a sort of abandoned one-lane county road. If we get a storm of some kind, help is not probably not coming if trees down over our road. Yes, my Husky 550xp was pricey, but I'm confident it will start and run strong when I really need it. It's also got plenty of power in a lightweight package. A cheap saw might be a bit heavier and/or not as powerful-- A sort of double whammy when having to run it for hours. I'm old enough that any way to make my work easier is a bonus.

I had a Stihl 026 before it that lasted me about 25 years. I could probably mess with it and get to run, but it just became a little too unreliable. Somehow Stihl changed the design, and despite keeping the same model number, there was a 2nd line of replacement parts. I had to have the saw and/or serial number to order parts. They never seemed to have parts in stock, and I really didn't care for the attitudes at the local Stihl dealer.

 

[Webb Willmott]

I appreciate all the responses and learned a lot from other’s responses. The adage of buy once cry once surfaces its head.

Decided to buy a pro line Stihl. I can afford any saw in the usage range needed but being a good steward of my money, I wanted the best bang for my buck. If I needed one for a one time use, I would buy a clone, but in the long term and multiple uses over several years, cheap is a bad buy. I don’t need a proline saw but there is a great deal of satisfaction of using a higher end tool.

- can’t get a Husky serviced because parts are hard to get
- Stihl can easily get serviced here
- Don’t like cheap tools. Buy cheap buy twice or more times
- Anti-vibe important
- Dependability, as in they just work years later
- Proline weigh less
- HP greater
- I can buy locally and support the local guy (major importance to me)

Why go coach when for a few bucks more you can go first class.

 

[Randy Heinemann]

I would go with the first response. It kind of depends on your use of the saw. If you are going to put it to heavy duty and frequent use, I'd say a cheaper saw is likely to fail quickly. About a year ago, I bought my first chainsaw. I use a chainsaw infrequently and for lighter duty work, like cutting up branches or cutting small logs into blanks. Since I already had Dewalt's 20V Max battery system, I decided to buy a smaller Dewalt battery chainsaw. So far, it has had the power to do what I want it to do. For me, it was an experiment. I had the battery platform for several other Dewalt tools (one larger capacity battery) already. My only outlay was for the Dewalt bare tool chainsaw. I saw that saw only for around $200 but, when I bought it, it was on sale for less. If that works and it ultimately wears out, I would try something a bit larger and, if possible, stick with the Dewalt battery system.

Again, though, if I was doing heavy duty sawing or using it to cut up larger logs into blanks, I most likely would have gone for something like Stihl. Whatever you do, you might want to consider cordless chainsaws. These days they get better and better. The fact that they require less maintenance probably makes them a good consideration. Plus, the tests I've seen between comparable battery powered saws and gas powered seem to show power isn't really any different.

So, in the end, consider what your use is. Then do a little research online. There are a lot of tests (some good and some not) which may not make your decision for you but will help you understand what you might need and what you sure don't want.

 

[Ross Berning]

Bought a pro-level Stihl, 362 I believe, and it is a pleasure to run. It has a decompression valve so it starts in one to two easy pulls and does very well damping the vibration. What you are getting from a better saw is more than the economics, something else to consider.

 

[Bill Blasic]

For inside my shop I bought the Stihl MSE250 corded chainsaw. It has no equal and uses the same chain as my 2 Stihl gas powered saws.

 

[Webb Willmott]

My last saw headed west many moons ago (literally) and I haven’t needed one in 20+ years. It grew legs and “walked off”. A little behind the scenes look is my wife and I recently bought some wooded land to build a house and shop on so i now need one and anticipated use justifies a higher end chainsaw.

 

[Dave Koegler]

Carburetors can be a real, REAL pain. I have had cheap and moderately inexpensive brands. Bad carburetors. Since I bought a 50+cc. Stihl, I have had zero problems. I use it occasionally on our 60 acres. Always reliable. Only thing is the pull. My right arm is longer than my left. But I can put up with that. Throwing it down works, but someday the cord may snap...

At our summer place I have a Ryobi battery-operated rig. I know there's lots of torque, but it sure doesn't cut like a Stihl.

Like some of the others have noted here, you get what you pay for and waste time, money and maybe even your soul dealing with the frustration of using even half decent rigs.

 

[Randy Heinemann]

"Pro level" saws, and tools in general, are certainly the way to go for long-term constant and/or frequent use, especially if the work being done is on the heavy work side of things. However, over the years, as a woodworker, I've learned that, when you don't put a tool to heavy and/or frequent use, it sometimes doesn't make sense to spend the money on a premium tool. For example (not to say that the work of a pin nailer and a chainsaw are the same, but just an example of my point), I bought a cheap Harbor Freight pin nailer about 10 years ago because I needed one and realized that, occasionally, I would use it for other work in my shop. It lasted me years and years with no problems; helped my on a number of pieces of work, and never really gave me a problem. It cost about $15. When I began to use it more, it admittedly did give me one problem by jamming. I decided then to invest in a Grex pin nailer, which is essentially top of the line. It works great, but costs 15 times more than the Harbor Freight tool; even today. Now I use it more frequently and it is a dream. However, it just didn't make sense to spend 15 times the cost of a tool when I was rarely using it.

I would put chainsaws in the category of buying a tool that fits your usage. It just doesn't make sense for me to buy an expensive chainsaw because I just don't use it a lot and not for heavy duty use. Plus, a gas powered chainsaw requires maintenance which I really don't want to spend my time doing. I'd probably buy a cordless Stihl if I was going that route. The price of a cordless with batteries and charger is $1,200, which just doesn't make sense for me and the uses I would get one for.

So, the point is assess your use. I assume that those of you who own high quality, heavy duty, expensive saws have a use for them I don't. All I'm suggesting is that the OP decide what he plans to use it for. My small Dewalt cordless saw suits my needs and didn't require a huge outlay. Plus, no maintenance except either replacement of or sharpening of the chain. If I should decide I want a larger, heavier duty, saw because my use is changing, the Dewalt saw is still a good choice for many tasks around the yard. (By the way, it's unlikely I will ever invest in a larger, heavier duty, saw, but I still wouldn't regret getting into the chainsaw market at the low end.)

 

[Adrian Wilson]

Already lots of good advice, and sounds like you have made your decision.... my add-on take. My choice for a first saw was a Stihl MS 261-C-M. This is the smallest saw in their pro line, and what tipped me over is it is the standard truck saw for the provincial power utility here in Nova Scotia. We have good Stihl shops here in Cape Breton, and they pointed me that way, and told me about the line crews. We have rugged country, and very rugged weather, and a saw that can't work for those guys won't be tolerated. It's a basic 50 cc machine, 16" bar standard but will take 20". I have worked mine hard, including hurricane clean-up, and I have zero regrets. Depending on your needs, it may or may not work for you.... I would like to add a small arborist-type saw for trail clean-up, and sometimes I think about a much bigger saw, but I don't have to deal with huge trees much and so far haven't met anything the 261 can't do. I have had excellent support online from Stihl product advisors for chain selection etc.

 

[Webb Willmott]

The MS 261 with a 18” bar is the one I choose and your comments about that saw put a thumbs up on my face.

While this post has interest, I though a few things about safety probably should be mentioned that I haven’t seen in other posts.

Look up before you cut. Dead limbs can be deadly if they fall while the tree is cut. Also check for vines which can cause the fall to change course.

If the tree is still supported by branches when it’s on the ground, the trunk has tension and can snap your way when breaking down the trunk. If the branches have been cut off and the trunk is supported, it’s much safer.

 

[Pat Wisniewski]

Shying away from Husky due to parts availability is not a big issue in the current online market. Now, that being said if you aren’t one to do your own maintenance or repairs then having a servicing dealer or qualified repair shop nearby is key.
As a mostly-retired arborist, fourteen of my sixteen saws are Husky, as traditionally they tended to have a better power to weight ratio. When one is hauling saws around trees all day a few pounds or even ounces makes a difference. My Stihl 031AV is mounted on a Lewis cable winch for pulling trees over. The other is a Stihl 015 which was my father’s (needing a total rebuild atm).
Newer Stihls (and Husky’s) have become lighter and feature autotune. If you can afford one the hit saw right now is a Stihl 500i which is a really nice saw. 562, 550 are a step down but still quite nice.

The classic two parts suppliers that loggers and serious arborists turn to are:

https://www.baileysonline.com

Madsen's Shop & Supply Inc | Authorized Power Equipment Dealer | Centralia WA

Madsen's is an authorized dealer for Stihl®, Husqvarna®, and Honda® power equipment. Our warehouse is filled with chainsaws, related tools, and various timber harvesting supplies, including lots of rugged outdoor work wear.

www.madsens1.com

Though there are many others like:

Sawzilla Parts

Sawzilla Parts

sawzillaparts.com

Small Engine Parts: Chainsaw Parts & Small Engine Repair Parts

Others go to:

Genuine Replacement Parts | Fast Shipping | Huge Selection | eReplacement Parts

Fix your equipment today - We offer repair parts, appliance parts, tool parts, diagrams, and repair advice for all major brands to make your repairs easy.

www.ereplacementparts.com

or

https://www.jackssmallengines.com

to get the proper part # and then search eBay, Craigslist, and Marketplace, though you need to watch out for poorer quality aftermarket parts so look for “guaranteed OEM” in any listings there…

And, I second the note about safety. There are YouTube videos on basic chainsaw safety, and tons of info on the safe felling and bucking of trees.

A friend who taught motorcycle safety courses always started his classes by saying “ The instant you aren’t totally aware of everything happening while riding a motorcycle is the instant the motorcycle starts riding you”.

Likewise I often say (even after 40 years as an arborist sometimes cutting in awkward positions over a hundred feet up or while releasing tension on a storm damaged tree full of potential energy), “ The moment I am not a little scared of a chainsaw is the moment I’ll put them down forever”.

Be safe out there!

 

[John K Jordan]

Look up before you cut. Dead limbs can be deadly if they fall while the tree is cut. Also check for vines which can cause the fall to change course.

If the tree is still supported by branches when it’s on the ground, the trunk has tension and can snap your way when breaking down the trunk. If the branches have been cut off and the trunk is supported, it’s much safer.

Good points. I read the little book "The Wood Woodcutters Guide" and everything else I could find before sawing at the farm, way overgrown when we bought it in 2003. There are lots of ways for be maimed or die, ideally avoided. It's impossible to protect from things you can't imagaine.

Dead limbs are sometimes called "widow makers". Not only can they break of and fall while the tree is moving, they can fall if the tree is bumped with equipment or the falling tree bumps another which jostles another or even if the wind is blowing hard. And watch for limbs already broken and caught by high branches as they fell, sometimes in adjacent trees. I wear a hardhat/helmet when driving the tractor in tight places.

An elderly neighbor went to the hospital for a bunch of stitches in his head when his son was dropping a tree for firewood. He had been standing under a large healthy tree three trees away from the one being dropped. The falling tree brushed the second which moved some branches up high into the third and broke a branch on the third which knocked the neighbor to the ground with his head a bloody mess. He had no helmet. I was watching from my property.

I am especially cautious when felling pines or trees around old pines that often have dead branches. These days I pay some pros to remove large trees. I help with my tracked loader (skid steer) by pulling on a 200' rope tied high in the tree. The rope goes through a pully attached low to another tree with a "loopy" such that I and the machine are pulling 90-deg or so from the intended line of fall and a LONG way away. (I am protected from a secondary limb fall by a cab strong enough for a rollover although I've never had a branch hit the machine.) The guys with the chainsaw have alread removed any obviously hazardous dead branches on the target tree, often with a bucket truck, sometimes by climbig. There are always at least three workers, one sawing, one by the tree watching, and a third directing me to tension and pull, with hand signals or 2-way radios. Have removed dozens of large unwanted trees with no incidents, mostly pines, many dead.

Most large vines can be cut at the bass then easily pulled off and out of the trees with equipment even if they've spread to several trees.

I've found poison ivy vines almost 6" dia - I once read they were good for carving mother-in-law spoons. Watch out for relatively small trees with multiple poison ivy vines. The tree can be completely dead and weak, nothing left but a dead trunk. The ivy can send out many horizontal branches with lots of leaves and look healthy. I call them poison ivy trees. When I knock one down the llamas are excited since they LOVE eating poison ivy.

BTW, it's probably obvious but it's recommended to limb a downed tree starting on the far end and working towards the base, cutting off log sections as you go. Best to throw cut limbs out of the way. I usually cut the limbs into short pieces as I go. And for trunks supported in the air, plastic wedges are your friend - two small plastic wedges in the top of a starting cut can support a long, large diameter trunk held off the ground at both ends.

And a good pole saw can allow cutting limbs from a safe distance whether the tree is standing or down. I use a long Stihl gasoline-powerd and a cordless Milwaulkee. pole saw.

And Pat's point about constant respect and awareness of potential hazards of chainsaw use is an excellent good one. Applies to lots of things in life, even the lathe.

JKJ

 

[Curt Fuller]

you get what you pay for and waste time, money and maybe even your soul dealing with the frustration of using even half decent rigs.

That's such good advice, I'm going to make a sign with those words and hang it in my shop.

 

[Graham Dolby]

I have found cheap saws hard to start. My husky has always started easily.

I have a Stihl and initially, it;s a brute to start but is ok once it "loosens up". The very reliable service guys say it's fine so it must be my declining strength with age. Questions about the ignition system affecting my recently installed pacemaker means that I will probably give it to one of my sons.

 

[John K Jordan]

I have a Stihl and initially, it;s a brute to start but is ok once it "loosens up". The very reliable service guys say it's fine so it must be my declining strength with age. Questions about the ignition system affecting my recently installed pacemaker means that I will probably give it to one of my sons.

I have a friend who had trouble starting his Stihl because of his starting procedure.
I showed him the instructions in the manual. (I suspect you already know all this but some may not.)
For most Stihl saws (variations for those with compression release and primer bulb):

• Check fuel, oil, air filter, that winter/summer air deflector is in the right position.
• Set chain brake, put saw on the ground and hold down with one hand on handle and one foot. Forget the unsafe "drop start".
• Release trigger lockout (on top of handle), squeeze the throttle lever and push the control lever all the way down. (Off Run Start Choke)
• Pull the cord several times to prime the carb and the engine makes a "blip". This takes me 1 or 2 pulls for most of my saws.
• Flip the control lever up one notch to the start position. (Off Run Start Choke)
• Pull the start cord firmly and quickly until the engine starts. Almost always takes exactly 3 pulls on my saws.
• When the engine starts, "blip" the throttle which switches the control lever to the run position. Rev to test. Ready to go. (Slightly different procedure for a hot saws, one with Eazy Start, and for my biggest saw with the primer bulb and compression release.)
• And once it starts, release chain brake!
• Once started, ALWAYS check for adequate oil splattering from end of bar onto a board or other surface to prove oil is getting pumped properly to the chain.
• Same procedure for pole saws.

After doing it this way he had no more trouble starting.

If this doesn't work, I'd do the other things: check fuel line, for fresh fuel, good spark, clean air filter, good carburetor.

I always use gasoline without ethanol in small engines. The parts of newer saws are supposed to be immune to the problems ethanol can cause but I don't trust them.
I did have a fuel line go bad and leak after a couple of decades. Easy and inexpensive to replace.

I've had several shoulder surgeries and declining strength but can still start the saw easily.
However, my dr, and more importantly my wife, said I'm not allowed to run chainsaws anymore.
Something silly to do with the side effects of anti-seizure meds.

I found this:

https://www.stihlusa.com/guides-projects/a/how-to-start-chainsaw/

JKJ

 

[Graham Dolby]

I have a friend who had trouble starting his Stihl because of his starting procedure.
I showed him the instructions in the manual. (I suspect you already know all this but some may not.)
For most Stihl saws (variations for those with compression release and primer bulb):

• Check fuel, oil, air filter, that winter/summer air deflector is in the right position.
• Set chain brake, put saw on the ground and hold down with one hand on handle and one foot. Forget the unsafe "drop start".
• Release trigger lockout (on top of handle), squeeze the throttle lever and push the control lever all the way down. (Off Run Start Choke)
• Pull the cord several times to prime the carb and the engine makes a "blip". This takes me 1 or 2 pulls for most of my saws.
• Flip the control lever up one notch to the start position. (Off Run Start Choke)
• Pull the start cord firmly and quickly until the engine starts. Almost always takes exactly 3 pulls on my saws.
• When the engine starts, "blip" the throttle which switches the control lever to the run position. Rev to test. Ready to go. (Slightly different procedure for a hot saws, one with Eazy Start, and for my biggest saw with the primer bulb and compression release.)
• And once it starts, release chain brake!
• Once started, ALWAYS check for adequate oil splattering from end of bar onto a board or other surface to prove oil is getting pumped properly to the chain.
• Same procedure for pole saws.

After doing it this way he had no more trouble starting.

If this doesn't work, I'd do the other things: check fuel line, for fresh fuel, good spark, clean air filter, good carburetor.

I always use gasoline without ethanol in small engines. The parts of newer saws are supposed to be immune to the problems ethanol can cause but I don't trust them.
I did have a fuel line go bad and leak after a couple of decades. Easy and inexpensive to replace.

I've had several shoulder surgeries and declining strength but can still start the saw easily.
However, my dr, and more importantly my wife, said I'm not allowed to run chainsaws anymore.
Something silly to do with the side effects of anti-seizure meds.

I found this:

https://www.stihlusa.com/guides-projects/a/how-to-start-chainsaw/

JKJ

I'll make a note of this but the chances are that I won't be using the Stihl again as it might interfere with my pacemaker.
I had it serviced and checked for the starting problem but the techies said it was fine. I made my 2-stroke mix using Shell Premium gas, which is supposed to have the lowest alcohol content.

 

[Webb Willmott]

Even the premium can contain up to 10% ethanol. Since I have access to aviation fuel, I use it which has no ethanol. There are also a few stations that sell no ethanol gas around here. If you really want to know how much ethanol is in the gas, you can use a tester. Add water to the line, fill with gas to the full line, shake, wait a few minutes and read the separation line on the scale.

Also you can get a Stihl saw without the M-Tronic function. The MS261 doesn’t have an electronic management system and the MS261 C-M does.

 

[John K Jordan]

Even the premium can contain up to 10% ethanol. Since I have access to aviation fuel, I use it which has no ethanol. There are also a few stations that sell no ethanol gas around here. If you really want to know how much ethanol is in the gas, you can use a tester. Add water to the line, fill with gas to the full line, shake, wait a few minutes and read the separation line on the scale.

We have several gas stations in this area that advertise 100% Gasoline, Ethanol Free, etc. I have a tester and tested all of them to make sure they were honest.

I know nothing about avgas these days. I think it was in the '80s when 80 octane avgas became unavailable, at least in our area, so we had to use 100.

I was flying a flying club Cessna 150 Aerobat when the engine started sputtering at about 400 ft when climbing out under power. The usual checks, carb heat, magnetos, etc. did nothing. Back on the ground after a careful 180 and there was no sign of a problem, even with full power taxi runs.

We were told the intake valves or seats had been damaged due to the forced change to 100 octane by Big Oil. Does that make sense? I don't think our other, larger planes developed that problem. The 150 was back in service after a few weeks in the shop.

JKJ

 

[Webb Willmott]

It doesn’t make sense. It may have been Lycoming morning sickness caused by a sticking exhaust valve which causes loss of power. Since you were climbing out, probably first use of the plane that day, highly suspect.

Being a club plane, cheap members tend to over lean to save fuel and have been known to induce valve problems.

 

[robo hippy]

You do see a lot of pros using the "drop start". While they can get away with it, the problem for a newbie when attempting this is that they do not hold the saw correctly, and when you pull the starter rope, the saw can and will pivot into your leg. Not a good thing to do. While I can grip it correctly to keep this from being a problem, I still put it on the ground, set the chain brake, and then pull. One new thing I learned is not to pull the rope all the way out. That will eventually cause your rope pull thing to break. "Don't do as I do, do as I say!"

robo hippy

 

[John K Jordan]

It doesn’t make sense. It may have been Lycoming morning sickness caused by a sticking exhaust valve which causes loss of power. Since you were climbing out, probably first use of the plane that day, highly suspect.

Being a club plane, cheap members tend to over lean to save fuel and have been known to induce valve problems.

Wasn't first use of the day. But there were two of us in the little plane and neither of us were slender at the time. We were informed there were other small engines with the same problem after the fuel change. I don't know, just what I was told. Maybe something to do with lead? It was a bit a bid disconcerting, thinking the engine was going to quit completely and the only thing ahead was the river.

Oh, the club charged by Hobbs time, all fuel supplied.

But not as scary as a landing with a sudden down shear on final in a 172, slamming the plane down maybe 10 ft, hard enough to throw stuff in the back seat into the front - almost like hitting a wall. Or landing from the north with a strong wind from the west and entering the wind shadow from buildings on either side 1/2 way down the runway. Or the time a military fighter jet pilot thought it would be fun to buzz me within 1/2 a wing span, one second a tiny dot, the next, yikes.. Almost made my heart stop. Not as scary as a friend who took off and the inside suddenly tfilled with smoke (maintenance had spilled oil on the exhaust manifold.) Or the time some dingbat in traffic control had directed an airliner from the parallel runway to turn directly towards another friend on climbing out from TYS in a small plane - a shout on the horn ("excuse me but...") resulted in an abrupt change of direction by the other pilot, probably panicked the passengers.

I'm sure anyone who flys has lots of fun stories!

JKJ