Photo inlay in platter

[russ stanton]

I would like to inlay a child's photo into the center of a small platter (coaster). How do I protect the photo from damage?

 

[Bill Boehme]

Put it behind glass. I don't think that you could encapsulate it in anything without ruining the photo.

 

[hockenbery]

The more advanced pen turners put photos around the barrels of pens and cast resin around them.

I think a clear epoxy could be poured over the photo. Something like crystal coat.
Tables are done this was all the time.

Be easy to test the process on a board.

Epoxy has the advantage of making the coaster water proof.

 

[Fadi Zeidan]

Penturners use decals, google pen decal and you will find the instructions.

There are also methods to transfer images on wood, but it won’t be as clear as photo finish

View: https://youtu.be/xHOWUR8vTvo

 

[Emiliano Achaval]

Put it behind glass. I don't think that you could encapsulate it in anything without ruining the photo.

Bill, I make fishing lures for my boat. The resin doesn't seem to ruin some of the inserts like shiny paper and other things. I even add a label from one of those labeling machines, the ink doesn't even run. I'm thinking a picture won't be damaged. Would have to try first...

 

[Emiliano Achaval]

The more advanced pen turners put photos around the barrels of pens and cast resin around them.

I think a clear epoxy could be poured over the photo. Something like crystal coat.
Tables are done this was all the time.

Be easy to test the process on a board.

Epoxy has the advantage of making the coaster water proof.

I should read the whole thread before answering.... LOL, yes, I believe that resin should work....

 

[russ stanton]

Thanks for the replies. I looked up Crystal Coat and got several different hits including one that was for a finish you put on while on the lathe made by a maker of friction cost so that is probably not it. The other hit was for bar top coating by the gallon. Any tips for finding small quantities of a resin type product that is clear not yellow. Also thought I may try a spray contact glue to hold the photo and then top coat with a crystal clear acrylic. Any thoughts on this idea. Will report back on my results when done

 

[John Torchick]

Krylon Fix-A-Tif is used for decoupage, etc. Experiment first with an old photo.

 

[hockenbery]

Thanks for the replies. I looked up Crystal Coat and got several different hits including one that was for a finish you put on while on the lathe made by a maker of friction cost so that is probably not it. The other hit was for bar top coating by the gallon. Any tips for finding small quantities of a resin type product that is clear not yellow. Also thought I may try a spray contact glue to hold the photo and then top coat with a crystal clear acrylic. Any thoughts on this idea. Will report back on my results when done

You want the bar type epoxy.
You might try the big box stores for a smaller quantity. I think they have something like a quart size.

 

[john lucas]

System 3 mirror coat I think you can get in smaller quantities from Woodcraft. Go to your local Hobby store and ask about Decopage clear finishes. I did Decopage using newspaper photos long before I was a photographer. Most epoxies won't damage a photo but some turn yellow with age. System 3 mirror coat is excellent. Casting resins also work well. There is also a way to remove the paper backing from photos and transfer the photo directly to the wood. it's pretty involved and tedious and you still have to coat it a clear protective coating.

 

[Bill Boehme]

There are all sorts of photography print media so we need to clarify which kind works with a specific type of encapsulating material such as epoxy or Inlace.

These days most photo prints are produced on ink jet printers using dye based inks. The colors on this type of print will bleed at the drop of a hat if water or just about any solvent comes in contact with it. Prints made using high-end pigment based inkjet printers are much more resistant to bleeding. There are also high-end resin coated photo papers that seal the ink by chemical reaction to improve light fastness and bleeding (Ilford, Museo, Hahnemuhle, Moab, Harman). Prints made with commercial thermal photo printers are another type, but I don't know how they might react. I suspect that traditional photo prints made in the darkroom would work better than ink based prints.

 

[Mark Lindquist]

Dye-Sub on aluminum. Built to take a nook-u-lar hit. Can even be used as coasters. Adorama Prints or Bay Photo make them in many sizes and shapes.
Get the aluminum dye-sub print, inlay with epoxy - set it and forget it.
Clean with Windex.

 

[Bill Boehme]

Dye-Sub on aluminum. Built to take a nook-u-lar hit. Can even be used as coasters. Adorama Prints or Bay Photo make them in many sizes and shapes.
Get the aluminum dye-sub print, inlay with epoxy - set it and forget it.
Clean with Windex.

Thanks for that great information, Mark. I have been looking for something like this for a graphic design that could be encapsulated and have the look of an enamel logo.