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Preserving green sycamore

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Dec 13, 2005
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I have a number of sycamore blanks that I cut from the downed tree about 6 months ago. I cut them into rounds and coated them with end grain sealer as soon as I could. Recently I checked them - and discovered that half had some open splits in a number of places, some that I could probe with a thin knife blade to as much as 4 inches! Needless to say, I was less than pleased... :(

I separated the problem blanks and started turning them to see if I could salvage anything. Out of the 22 I went through in the past week, I have gotten 5 useable bowls - that have warped in some very interesting shapes. The rest were not useable for turning, so I gave them to a friend who does carving - hopefully she can get some use out of them. Many that looked like small splits at the surface actually opened up inside to large holes...not the best thing to spot when almost done with turning the shape.

It's not the cost of the bowls - I paid about $30 for what amounted to 50 blanks. Even the work I put in getting them set up was a lesson. But I really would like to save the rest of the bowls - preferably to dry wood so I can turn something that will keep it's shape. They range from 6" to 12" rounds, and 3" to 6" deep. They are coated on all sides.

I tried turning one and drying it in the microwave - instant splits and cracking sounds. I am willing to rough them into shapes for later - which should make them dry faster - but would like to be sure it has a chance of being worth the effort. If I do that, then recoat them, can I expect a reasonable survival rate?

It's really interesting wood, strange color but some great red vanes running counter to the grain (and that's what the splits seem to run on, the red vanes, not the grain!).
 
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The red is probably some fungus working in the radial splits. Simply put, the outside of your "rounds" have access to air and are losing moisture convectively faster than the inside can by diffusion. As the outside shrinks, it tries to compress the inside, and when it can't, it relieves the tension with a split.

Your chances improve by ripping your green wood up the middle to reduce the total contiguous span of contracting wood. They improve even further if you rough and remove most of it. Syacamore has prominent rays and is a bit more prone to splits than average, but if you avoid deep vertical walls and broad bottoms your success rate should be nearly 100%.
 
Joined
May 29, 2004
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Location
billerica, ma
Another option is to grab the saran wrap and wrap the engrain. This is a temporary fix, as the piece will begin to spalt and rot almost immediately, but it will preserve the blanks without cracking for up to a couple of months before the rot goes too far and you start losing wood.

Be warned, as soon as it starts to mold and rot, you will get color changes in the wood. These can be quite attractive but are unavoidable if you fully seal the wood with plastic.

Dietrich
 
Joined
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Ormond Beach FL
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turnedbygeorge.com
42Olds said:
I have a number of sycamore blanks that I cut from the downed tree about 6 months ago. I cut them into rounds and coated them with end grain sealer as soon as I could. Recently I checked them - and discovered that half had some open splits in a number of places, some that I could probe with a thin knife blade to as much as 4 inches! Needless to say, I was less than pleased... :(

It's really interesting wood, strange color but some great red vanes running counter to the grain (and that's what the splits seem to run on, the red vanes, not the grain!).
I have noticed that my sycamore blanks tend to crack between the heart and sap woods. Don't know why, most other woods don't seem to do that. In the future, you could wait and cut blanks from the log as you can at least rough turn them. It seems that once I have removed enough material, the heart and sap hold together just fine. Just keep the end grain on the log well sealed.
 
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Gaston, Oregon
Sycamore

You might try rough-turning to about 3/4" or so wall thickness, and boiling for an hour. I have used this method on green Madrone (a very difficult wood) with very good results. Then wrap in newspaper (NO color print!!!), stow in paper shopping bags for about 3 months, then re-turn, finish, and grin!!! Hope this helps....kinda makes for a bad day when nice wood goes bad....god luck. :cool2: :cool2:
 
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OK, thanks all for the great ideas. I finally bit the bullet and rough turned all of those blanks which were salvageable - 10 out of over 20...some that were "fine" last week had started to open up already, and a couple had hidden voids.

Hopefully this will forestall any more serious splits.

Never thought I would do that many bowls in one afternoon - hard on the hands, and left a very large amount of shavings! I found shavings as far as 15 feet away...and the main pile was 6 inches deep. I got them cleaned off the lathe and other machines but left the rest on the floor to dry out a bit as they were clogging the hose of the dust collector. I am thinking that a set of curtains around the lathe area might be a useful project...

I think I will make it a point to immediately rough turning all green wood in the future.

Thanks,

Stephen
 
Joined
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42Olds said:
Never thought I would do that many bowls in one afternoon - hard on the hands, and left a very large amount of shavings! I found shavings as far as 15 feet away...and the main pile was 6 inches deep. I got them cleaned off the lathe and other machines but left the rest on the floor to dry out a bit as they were clogging the hose of the dust collector. I am thinking that a set of curtains around the lathe area might be a useful project...

Change your angle of attack slightly and they'll go gouge to bag direct. Putting the lathe on a tabletop and up against a wall will catch the others made by hollowing L to R at convenient height for an end sweep.

Use a snow shovel, not the DC.
 
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Tallahassee FL
A couple sheets of visqueen, strategically shaped and placed, work better than simple curtains. It doesn't take very much shavings to fill up a DC, or worse yet, a shop vac, real quick. I use a flat-bottom dirt shovel; hard to find snow shovels in the sunshine state.

Joe
 
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Joe Greiner said:
I use a flat-bottom dirt shovel; hard to find snow shovels in the sunshine state.

Joe

Then by all means get rid of that heavy beggar and get a grain scoop made of aluminum. It'll do for shavings and you can get more in it for less total weight.
 
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scooping shavings

MichaelMouse said:
Then by all means get rid of that heavy beggar and get a grain scoop made of aluminum. It'll do for shavings and you can get more in it for less total weight.

I have a bracket that holds 42 gal contractors bags (3 mil) from Home Depot. I use a large dust pan that just fits the opened bag (in the bracket).Yes I have to bend over after sweeping in a pile under the lathe-but it stretches the back!!!! Gretch
 
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