Preserving wood

[George Speed]

Good morning all!

Had the fortune to acquire some wood for future projects.

I am seeking advice on how to care for one of the larger pieces, as it will be some time before I can use them.
It is quite punky in the center.

And at some time, I would like to try the stabilizing process.
With that in mind, I don’t know about using wax on the piece.

Thanks very much,
Pic. Box elder. (Most of my wood haul is box elder)

 

[Dave Landers]

From your other posts, it looks like you're doing mostly spindle projects (game calls etc). So I'd cut this up into blanks appropriate for those projects. Get the size down to 2"x2" or whatever, avoiding the current cracks in the log. Treat the ends (lots of options but anchor seal or paraffin dip are probably best) and store it where air can circulate (stickers in between).

(hard to tell the size of this piece, so maybe this is bogus advice)

 

[John K Jordan]

From your other posts, it looks like you're doing mostly spindle projects (game calls etc). So I'd cut this up into blanks appropriate for those projects. Get the size down to 2"x2" or whatever, avoiding the current cracks in the log

I'd do the same, cut it up on the bandsaw into useful sizes. Cut away any cracks, cut away the rot. Better to have small good pieces that large chunks of junk. (my personal philosophy)

I often cut along major cracks to allow better use of the remaining wood. After cutting into useful squares, coat the end grain with anchorseal and perhaps coat side grain that is figured. Weigh a typical blank or two and write the weight (in grams) and the date (month/year) on a piece of tape. Weigh again after a month or two and repeat weighing until the weight no longer drops or even goes up (due to seasonal humidity changes in your shop/storage area). At that point the wood is dry.

I never use any of the stabilizing methods, resin, etc. I prefer the look of natural wood.

Remember that regardless of what you do, over time all the red color in Box Elder will probably fade to brown. If you want to keep red in the final pieces, best use a small soft brush and paint it with pink/red dye.

Box elder is a soft maple, easy to turn, finishes nicely (where the wood is good.)

JKJ

 

[robo hippy]

I have found over the years that it is generally best to process it as soon as possible. If nothing else, cut it into smaller pieces. Sealing helps, but doesn't last forever. For cylinders, I round them down, round over the ends, and then add some wood glue to the end grain. .You can sink it in the old mill pond, but it will pick up color from what ever else lives in the pond.

robo hippy

 

[John K Jordan]

You can sink it in the old mill pond, but it will pick up color from what ever else lives in the pond.

"Ponding" is a respected temporary preservation technique but best done in a SS 55-gal drum, changing the water as needed. Freezing is another method of saving wood for later use but few have big enough freezers. I did a test on a relatively small piece and it was like newly fresh wood after years. (I wrapped it in plastic before chucking it into the freezer.)

 

[George Speed]

sounds like a plan, thanks for the replies!

 

[George Speed]

I have these two other pieces as well.
The larger one, sure seems like I can get some bowl shapes from?
The smaller… bowl or other candidate?

I guess these are fairly dumb questions…

Spindle wood wise, have waayyy more than enough!!

 

[robo hippy]

I remember a story about some turner who had a small waterfall in the back yard. It kept a constant source of fresh water running over the bowl blanks..... That would be nice....

robo hippy

 

[hughie]

I have tried the oil drum and freezing, various sealers. leaving it in big chunks etc. But if you know what you're going to use the blank, then cut it up and seal right there and then. It will dry faster in smaller chuncks, OK you will need a heck of a lot of storage space.

 

[Kent Reisdorph]

In my limited experience, boxelder will rot pretty fast. If it's starting to get punky, then you'll want to process it and get it in a dry place ASAP.

 

[hughie]

I store all my wood in doors and tend to break down big chunks into sizes I can carry, never leaving it outside processing is the number one priority, cut , seal n store.
To date most of my shop is wood storage anywhere I can shove it, under benches, etc. Remember the maxim " you can never have too much wood" any thoughts otherwise boarder on heresy.