• Beware of Counterfeit Woodturning Tools (click here for details)
  • Johnathan Silwones is starting a new AAW chapter, Southern Alleghenies Woodturners, in Johnstown, PA. (click here for details)
  • Congratulations to Jim Hills for "Journey II" being selected as Turning of the Week for May 6th, 2024 (click here for details)
  • Welcome new registering member. Your username must be your real First and Last name (for example: John Doe). "Screen names" and "handles" are not allowed and your registration will be deleted if you don't use your real name. Also, do not use all caps nor all lower case.

Recommendations on lathe lighting

KEW

Joined
Jun 9, 2005
Messages
340
Likes
0
Location
North Metro Atlanta
I am putting my lathe in an essentially unlit area of my garage.
If you could start from scratch, how would you set up your lighting?
Flourescent? Directional? Locations?

Thanks,
Kurt
 
Joined
Dec 15, 2006
Messages
328
Likes
2
Location
Sierra Foothills
I'd probably use a series of miniature (e.g PAR30) halogen lamps that could be adjusted so that one focused on the back half side, one on the front half side, and the third on the face of the piece being turned. Like incandescent lamps, halogen lamps create heat so using the lower wattage lamp (60 watts or less) should keep the heat down while still providing excellent lighting. A 60 watt halogen should give you the output of a 100 watt incandescent and the color of the light will be closer to white than any incandescent lamp you could use. I'd stay away from fluorescent in any form.
 
Joined
Jul 28, 2005
Messages
390
Likes
124
Location
Alexandria, VA
I use a combination of florescent tubes ( ceiling mounted) , moffatt lights ( incandescent ) on Gary Sander's light stand attached to the Stubby, and stalk mounted mini halogen lights for additional light.
It works for me. It keeps pretty bright,. I try to use 'natural' color balanced lights.

Mark.
 
Joined
May 4, 2005
Messages
203
Likes
1
Location
Derby, Kansas, USA
Lights

I don't like florescent lighting around power tools. Hold a pencil and look at the shadow under a florescent. Then turn the pencil 90 degrees. One way it is fuzzy, the other way it is sharp.

I started with my lathe under a florescent and changed the light. I now have a halogen directly above and a couple of incandescent over and 45 degrees. I have another halogen behind me about 5 feet. I am looking for more behind me. But what I have works.

John :)
 
Joined
May 7, 2004
Messages
370
Likes
0
Location
Lynn Haven, FL
My whole shop is already well lite, but about 7' above the floor over my lathe I have a 4-tube 48" flourescent light fixture. I also have a 6' piece of track lighting with 4 halogen spots in it (60 watts each I think). All my walls and ceiling are painted white, and that probably helps more than anything else.
 
Joined
May 16, 2005
Messages
3,540
Likes
15
Flourescent is cool, cheap and bright. Make that your background general shop lighting, and lots of it. I use clip floods for task illumination, still the wasteful incandescent type. Can't bring myself to put in anything much hotter, because a single neglected curl could ruin my whole setup.

Be sure you clear the throw zone of all glass items, or get covers for them as you do for cast iron you can't move. Bit of sap or finish on the fly isn't good for hot bulbs either.
 

KEW

Joined
Jun 9, 2005
Messages
340
Likes
0
Location
North Metro Atlanta
MichaelMouse said:
Can't bring myself to put in anything much hotter, because a single neglected curl could ruin my whole setup.

Can I presume you are talking fire hazard?
I hadn't really considered that.

Thanks to all for the responses and keep 'em coming. Lots of good info!
 
Joined
Nov 7, 2005
Messages
48
Likes
0
Location
Largo, Florida ("The Jewel of Senile")
Website
www.FWCWT.org
I use a T8 flourescent fixture suspended from the ceiling with high output DAYLIGHT bulbs. For me, they provide the best and truest colors. Then I supplement them with a couple of magnetic gooseneck lamps I got from HF with 75W "Reveal" incandescent bulbs.

I get no shadowing, and very true lighting from above, and both ends of the lathe bed.
 
Joined
Jun 10, 2004
Messages
792
Likes
9
Location
Ames, Iowa (about 25 miles north of Des Moines)
Website
rwallace.public.iastate.edu
Don't overlook track lighting!

KEW said:
I am putting my lathe in an essentially unlit area of my garage.
If you could start from scratch, how would you set up your lighting?
Flourescent? Directional? Locations?

Thanks,
Kurt

Kurt:

I have found that mounting a 4 foot light track above my lathe area allows me to use several inexpensive track-lights, which then enables me to focus lots of light near the headstock where most of the activity goes on (...at least this is the main work area for my turning activities; I have general lighting for doing spindles and longer pieces - most of my work is on bowls, hollow forms, and other vessels). I have done a fair amount of reviewing of possible lighting options, and in my opinion, you should consider this area of the lathe as the primary target area for light arriving from different angles, similar to that used in a surgical suite. Not only do I have at least four individual track lights flooding the area of interest (with incandescent flood lights), I also have one of the long-necked Moffat Lights attached to the headstock for direct "custom" positioning while hollowing, doing final cuts/shear scraping, etc..

One talk I offered to give at the AAW Symposium in Portland this year was on turning station ergonomics, and lighting was included among the topics to be presented. Not only is light intensity and direction important, but spectral composition also should be considered, as others have mentioned. One fact of human biology is that as we age, there is a requirement to have more light on the subject, as well as to change glasses, etc. to insure good acuity along with color and depth perception. Having a fairly well-lit "surgical field" enables easier observation, regardless of what age the turner is.

Another lighting consideration: My prototype "inspection" light is a 3 foot fluorescent tube housed in a wooden box mounted a few feet above the lathe, with a ca. 1 inch slit to allow the light to come out in a long narrow "strip". I only use this light when examining the finished surfaces of the turned piece, usually toward the end of the sanding operations. This light works especially well when I turn down the track lights (these are on a 1000 Watt dimmer) and use the single "light line" to reflect off of the turned piece for close surface inspection to detect irregularities in shape, tear-out, sanding scars, over-sanded areas that need blending, etc. The harsh linear reflection (and any "shadows") off of the surfaces of the turned piece accentuates problem areas, much in the same way linear inspection lights are used by automotive body shops to look for surface/shape problems in repaired sheet metal or for various paint and restoration jobs. This is an inexpensive way to check the finish preparation on your work before removing it from the lathe.

Lighting is an important aspect of having an efficient and comfortable turning station, so don't skimp on this part of your new lathe's home. You will enjoy the lathe more if you actually can see what you're doing without much effort or eye strain!

Good luck & turn safely!

Rob Wallace
 
Last edited:
Joined
Apr 29, 2004
Messages
576
Likes
2
Location
Hanover, VA
Website
www.abhats.com
Use many not few

I've two overall flourescent fixtures, three moveable halogen clamp lights, one magnetic gooseneck incandescent and an old slide projector (for oval turning). I just move things about to suit the piece I'm turning. If it's small and intricate I may even bring in a floor mounted dual high intensity halogen setup. Bottom line is that the more light you have with little shadow, the better you can see what you're doing.
 

john lucas

AAW Forum Expert
Joined
Apr 26, 2004
Messages
8,346
Likes
3,603
Location
Cookeville, TN
I have flourescents over every work area in the shop and then use the Gary Sanders Moffet lamps to illuminate the actual work surface. I bought the Gary Sanders swiveling attachment for my lathe and it's one of the best things I've ever done. I can instantly get the light exactly where I need it. I have several of his lamps with the magnetic bases. They can be moved anywhere in the shop for spot illumination.
I think in the very near future I will look at LED spot illumination. The Moffet lamps can be a little hot, expecially in the summer. LED's run cool but the illumination may be different so it will be interesting to see how they work.
 
Joined
Jul 28, 2005
Messages
390
Likes
124
Location
Alexandria, VA
LED lights have promise for the future.
They are really expensive, even for a light that lasts forever.
I saw 50w equiv LED lights for about $40, I find the basic high output white LED to be harsh to look at for long periods, too blue for me.
I'm sure that they will get it right over time.
 
Back
Top