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Rescuing Danish Oil that's starting to polymerize in its bottles?

The Coleman fuel he’s talking about is in a pour can. Not the compressed gas. It’s used for lanterns and camp stoves.

Cans of naphtha can be found in the paint section. Lighter fluid for Zippo lighters is naphtha, not to be confused with charcoal lighter fluid.

I use it for cleaning greasy surfaces.

Well, I guess we don't have the red and silver Coleman fuel cans here in Colorado. At least, I've not found them at any of the stores near where I live. I have found the green pressurized propane canisters. We have DNA, which is sold as a fuel, and it can only be sold as a fuel as otherwise it would fall under the various restrictions on VOCs here in Colorado. I guess, if the Coleman fuel is naphtha, then that may be why its not available. It seems that Naphtha and Xylene were at the top of the list of VOCs Colorado wanted to ban...
😢
 
FWIW, here is the one non-junk item I finished with this going-bad danish:

1762542505742.png

It was harder to deal with the soak time and wipeoff, but, in the end, this satin sheen, was something I hadn't really been able to get before. Such was the motivation of finding a way to preserve the stuff, at least for a little while, instead of just tossing it...
 
Yeah, that's what I've done with a new can. I have been using stop loss bags for about two years here. I bought this can before I started using the bags, and at teh time, I redistributed it into smaller bottles, that would be used up in a single project at a time (they are very small bottles with little yorker caps, few ounces each.) This made it easy to use up the oil in a bottle on each piece, and I was working through them for a while. But I've had a rocky road with my woodturning, there are times I can turn, then I have these lulls due to life, and I don't turn for a while. This stuff just happened to be from before I started using stop-loss bags, and it was kind of an expensive can (IIRC, 1gal, I think it was $58, then plus tax), not the normal 1-quart cans.
The caps with Stop Loss bags are just not strong enough and every cap has split on the 4 bags I have. So I cut a shallow groove near the open end of the cap, bind with fine wire and then coat with epoxy. I contacted the inventor and his explanation for the flimsy caps was reasonable, so I doubt he'll change the specs.
 
Did you follow the directions and put some wax on the threads to prevent sticking and not tighten more than finger tight?
 
The caps with Stop Loss bags are just not strong enough and every cap has split on the 4 bags I have.
Woodcraft sells replacement caps for the bags in case you hadn't seen that. I agree, the caps are flimsy and prone to breakage.
 
The challenge I have is Colorado has banned most of the viable solvents. We basically have nothing here anymore. I am honestly surprised the Ace was carrying this paint thinner, no other place does.

I don't recommend breaking the law. I have, however, read on other forums where people have driven to other states to bring back solvents still sold there.
 
Well, I guess we don't have the red and silver Coleman fuel cans here in Colorado. At least, I've not found them at any of the stores near where I live. I have found the green pressurized propane canisters. We have DNA, which is sold as a fuel, and it can only be sold as a fuel as otherwise it would fall under the various restrictions on VOCs here in Colorado. I guess, if the Coleman fuel is naphtha, then that may be why its not available. It seems that Naphtha and Xylene were at the top of the list of VOCs Colorado wanted to ban...
😢
There are two 1 gallon cans of Coleman fuel available on isle 23 at Ace on E Lliff Ave in Aurora @ $19.99/can according to the website.

It was an interesting read on what was declared prohibited in CO. Fuels containing MTBE are prohibited. Not the fuel itself.
 
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There are two 1 gallon cans of Coleman fuel available on isle 23 at Ace on E Lliff Ave in Aurora @ $19.99/can according to the website.

It was an interesting read on what was declared prohibited in CO. Fuels containing MTBE are prohibited. Not the fuel itself.
Interesting. I checked the ACE near me, and the one on Buckley, and neither have it (despite it being listed on the web site.) I also checked the couple of REI's near me, but neither have the red and silver cans (only the propane.) On the REI site, the only store they show that has any stock is nearly 60 miles away. I've checked all the Home Depots and Lowes within about 15 miles or so, and none have it. I don't know why it is so scarce. I'll check out the Ace on Illif, although I'd be surprised if they actually had any either.
 
I don't recommend breaking the law. I have, however, read on other forums where people have driven to other states to bring back solvents still sold there.
Yeah, I considered that once. The drive is a long one, no matter which direction I go. I hate driving, so its unlikely I'll ever do that. :P Maybe some day we can change the laws here in CO and get back to some level of normalcy.
 
Maybe some day we can change the laws here in CO and get back to some level of normalcy.

Another idea - move to the south east! The climate is good - not frozen for months), lots of culture, outdoor recreation including lakes/rivers/whitewater, rolling mountains, no shortage of water, land and housing is far more affordable than many places in the country, (TN has no income or wheel tax, gasoline is cheaper than much of the US - I paid $2.55 yesterday). Has great turning clubs, appears to be an epicenter of woodturning with abundant hardwood trees and free turning wood! We live close to where I-75 crosses I-40 easing travel to points N/S/E/W.

JKJ
 
Another idea - move to the south east! The climate is good - not frozen for months), lots of culture, outdoor recreation including lakes/rivers/whitewater, rolling mountains, no shortage of water, land and housing is far more affordable than many places in the country, (TN has no income or wheel tax, gasoline is cheaper than much of the US - I paid $2.55 yesterday). Has great turning clubs, appears to be an epicenter of woodturning with abundant hardwood trees and free turning wood! We live close to where I-75 crosses I-40 easing travel to points N/S/E/W.

JKJ

Honestly...Colorado is beautiful, but I am getting to a limit with it... It is not the state I moved to 28 years ago. It stinks like pot more than half the time, almost everywhere you go. Its becoming riddled with crime... We have a bunch of really stupid laws.

I've been seriously considering moving. Ironically, I've been looking at more northern states, but, maybe I should consider more southern states. I used to love the cold, but these days...not sure how well I'd be able to handle Idaho winters (top state I've been considering so far!)
 
I used to love the cold, but these days...not sure how well I'd be able to handle Idaho winters (top state I've been considering so far!)
My wife and I spent the start of our careers in the Moscow Idaho area 1995-2000. Career changes brought us back to our native Minnesota in 2000. The "Palouse" area of the Idaho panhandle and southeastern Washington had milder winters relative to what we experience in the south half of MN. Warmer winter temps and less seasonal snow, until you get up into hill country and higher. In 5 years there, I think we saw one single-digit below zero temp, and a "big" snowstorm probably meant 5-6".

Lewiston ID/ Clarkston WA, down in the Snake/Clearwater River gorges are even more mild in the winter. That tri-state intersection (along with Oregon) may be a place to consider for milder winters.

I can't give any experience other than that region. No idea what southern Idaho, and certainly along the central and eastern mountain ranges have to offer. Probably colder and more snow with the overall higher elevations. And probably larger centers of career opportunities.

I used to tell people that Idaho is a gorgeous place to visit, but if you're thinking of moving there for work, you better have a job lined up before you arrive. The panhandle has the Univ. of Idaho in Moscow, and Washington State Univ. 7 miles away in Pullman WA, and lots of very small businesses, but other than that it was all the farming and timber industries outside the city limits, and little else. But, that was 25 years ago...
 
My wife and I spent the start of our careers in the Moscow Idaho area 1995-2000. Career changes brought us back to our native Minnesota in 2000. The "Palouse" area of the Idaho panhandle and southeastern Washington had milder winters relative to what we experience in the south half of MN. Warmer winter temps and less seasonal snow, until you get up into hill country and higher. In 5 years there, I think we saw one single-digit below zero temp, and a "big" snowstorm probably meant 5-6".

Lewiston ID/ Clarkston WA, down in the Snake/Clearwater River gorges are even more mild in the winter. That tri-state intersection (along with Oregon) may be a place to consider for milder winters.

I can't give any experience other than that region. No idea what southern Idaho, and certainly along the central and eastern mountain ranges have to offer. Probably colder and more snow with the overall higher elevations. And probably larger centers of career opportunities.

I used to tell people that Idaho is a gorgeous place to visit, but if you're thinking of moving there for work, you better have a job lined up before you arrive. The panhandle has the Univ. of Idaho in Moscow, and Washington State Univ. 7 miles away in Pullman WA, and lots of very small businesses, but other than that it was all the farming and timber industries outside the city limits, and little else. But, that was 25 years ago...

Thankfully my main job is remote: Software engineer/architect. I can pretty much work anywhere in the country, from home. Hence why I'm very seriously considering leaving Colorado. I no longer am really locked in here. It used to be the Denver Tech Center where all the jobs were, and you had to be on-site, in office. Things shifted around the southern areas below Denver for a while. Then a number of years ago, maybe almost ten years now, most of the work shifted INTO Denver, and I hate going into Denver. I started working from home before the pandemic. SINCE the pandemic, Denver is pretty much a dead husk full of crime and pot smoke, the DTC is half-dead, and there is little reason to actually stay in the state. ;)

Thanks for the info! I'm kind of surprised that there is any part of Idaho that has milder winters. I've spent time driving through Wyoming during the winter...and man, sometimes it gets downright frightening, with how you can't see 10 feet in front of your car and its just a flat, blank, featureless white landscape. Maybe I unduly transferred those experiences to Idaho. Despite the concerns about whiteout, though, Idaho has still been my top choice for the last year or so. I need to plan some trips to some of these places and actually check them out during the summer. One thing about Colorado, its more airid environment, seems to suit me better than humid environments that get hot. I've spent time in Kansas, during the summer...I like some of it, but the humidity and heat during the summer, I don't think I could handle. We get 90-100 degree days here in Colorado, and its not the same...lacking the humidity, its just different. This is the main reason I haven't moved yet, despite having wanted to for, well, probably two years now.
 
I used to love the cold, but these days...not sure how well I'd be able to handle Idaho winters (top state I've been considering so far!)

I grew up in PA, south of Pittsburgh. I remember snows 2-3' deep, country roads that stayed covered with packed snow for months, temperatures well below zero, ice floating on the river, staying close to the fireplace or furnace vents, bedroom so cold a glass of water would freeze over night.

Here, we have snow but rare to get over an inch or two, and it's usually gone in a couple of days. Snow 3-8" is possible but extremely rare. Never a chance to ice skate on a pond or ice fish. People bike and fish from boats and such most of the year. Several times I drove east to the Atlantic coast in December and surf fished in shirt-sleeves in the day and a coat and hat at night. Even then, some incredibly tough people were windsurfing and kite-boarding in the ocean and sound wearing wet suits.

Unlike PA, the fields and yards often say green or mostly green in the winter - I took my wife to PA once in the winter and she couldn't believe how brown the grass was and how dirty gray everything else was, especially the old dirty snow along every road. I made good used of chains (plastic chains) exactly twice in 55 years, once getting down a slippery driveway and once when a rare ice storm immobilized everything. One thing we DON'T have is an abundance of good snow clearing equipment - the county here will spread fine gravel on hills if you call and ask and scrape off the rare snow - if you call and ask! We live up a fairly steep hill and several times I cleared a rare snow with the skid steer. Only one person said thanks...

It's often pretty warm in the summer but not always. This climate is perfect for using heat pumps to heat and cool. I know people with gas furnaces but they don't come on often. Humidity is relative high but with air conditioning it's nice inside. My house and shop have heat pumps and keep the temp and humidity controlled all year.

I have a friend who has a farm in Wyoming, very close to Idaho. He spends his summers in Wyoming and winters in Tennessee.

JKJ
 
As a retired pharmacist, here is a thought for you. Go to a local independent pharmacy and ask them to buy a case for you of plastic 2oz, 3oz, 4oz, 6oz, or 8oz plastic liquid bottles like the kind cough syrup is dispensed. Inexpensive, UV light protected, and just right to keep the air out to prevent oxidation from occurring and you can get the size you want. Buy a big can and pour up in the small bottles. You can also pull the outer child proof cover on the cap and make it easy open for all you old farts that need to get the grandchild to open for you.
 
You can also pull the outer child proof cover on the cap and make it easy open for all you old farts that need to get the grandchild to open for you.
I do this occasionally. Mostly though I simply grab the outside of the lid with suitable pliers, squeeze, and twist. Always works.

Go to a local independent pharmacy and ask them to buy a case for you of plastic 2oz, 3oz, 4oz, 6oz, or 8oz plastic liquid bottles like the kind cough syrup is dispensed. Inexpensive, UV light protected, and just right to keep the air out to prevent oxidation from occurring and you can get the size you want. Buy a big can and pour up in the small bottles.
You can get small plastic bottles from other sources too, such as Amazon. When the covid pandemic hit and hand sanitizer became unavailable to buy I bought 100s of plastic squeeze bottles from Amazon and made hand sanitizer to give out. (I had several gallons of isopropyl alcohol on hand and mixed up sanitizer. - When I posted this picture of one batch on another forum...
1762834143927.jpeg
... an incredibly kind person saw it and shipped four metal 4-gallon cans of mixed sanitizer to me from his family company. I was floored. He wouldn't even accept shipping costs! I was able to bottle and distribute sanitizer to so many individuals, families, and organizations, such as churches that had food banks, charity organizations that help provide care and feed to single mothers, homeless - anyone who wanted some. We sent gallon bottles to some organizations. We still keep some small bottles in our cars. I also ran into another fellow who had a truckload of boxes of vinyl disposable gloves made for the food-handling industries - instead of trying to make a big profit he sold boxes or cases for what he paid for them! There are good people everywhere...

One problem with plastic bottles (especially as typically made from LDPE) holding finishes or other liquids - if stored for a long time, some of what's inside can evaporate through the plastic and the bottles will develop a vacuum and start distorting with the sides "caving" in. I have no idea what this might do to finishes. I also have bottles for when I bottle honey. Don't know if they are better but the plastic is a different type and thicker. The best plastic bottles I've seen come with excellent seals - those used by Mercury Adhesives for CA glue. The plastic is much thicker.

Another option is glass bottles. I've ordered cases of glass bottles with well-sealed caps, some for when I make vanilla extract, some I used for chemicals. Vapors cannot go through the glass. Glass can't be used for squeeze dispensing, but I think they are far better for storing chemicals, finishes, and other solutions over extended periods. (Visitors who cook love to take home a bottle of real vanilla extract made from Madagascar vanilla beans!)

I bought many bottles like this. I suspect the amber color could also minimize changes from light, but last time I checked I was still not an chemist or pharmacist. I do know they are good for long term storage of many types of liquids.
1762834769645.jpeg

(Fun fact - helium can pass through glass! Before laser diodes and laser pointers were available the local geek squad (I and friends) bought Helium-Neon lasers in glass tubes and built power supplies to drive them. After extended time, some of the helium would escape due to it's tiny atomic size and the laser would quit lazing. The solution, put the laser tube in a chamber pressurized with helium. We didn't have that but it also worked to put the tube in the top of an inverted bucket and fill the bucket from the bottom with helium gas! Didn't take much.

There, more things that will probably not be interesting to more than 1 person in 10,000! :)



JKJ
 
@Jon Rista, the area we lived in had very low humidity summers. It could get hot, but very dry. "But it's a dry heat!" Yeah, dehydrates you without you even knowing it.

Christmas 1995, mid-40s and rain. Boy, that surprised this transplanted Minnesotan.

Sounds like Denver is like Minneapolis, post-covid & Geoge Floyd. Downtown is quite empty, the local police departments are very understaffed, and the officers that remain, for whatever host of reasons, are reluctant to "serve and protect". Less than 5 years and we'll be relocating away from the metro area, at least a few hours away. But anyway, way off topic now!

Tried & True finishes forever!
 
As a retired pharmacist, here is a thought for you. Go to a local independent pharmacy and ask them to buy a case for you of plastic 2oz, 3oz, 4oz, 6oz, or 8oz plastic liquid bottles like the kind cough syrup is dispensed. Inexpensive, UV light protected, and just right to keep the air out to prevent oxidation from occurring and you can get the size you want. Buy a big can and pour up in the small bottles. You can also pull the outer child proof cover on the cap and make it easy open for all you old farts that need to get the grandchild to open for you.

This is exactly what I did. I think the bottles I have are 2oz, and I had a bunch of em. Filled each to the rim with the Danish oil. Each bottle had little yorker caps, so there was that small amount of air. The oil did move up into the caps early on, then stopped, and I thought I was good. I guess these bottles are not really all that good at sealing, though, and it seems more air was sucked in over time, especially over the last 10 months or so I'd say, and the oil has thickened a bit, it flows, but not as well as fresh oil.

I do like these little bottles, and even though I use stop loss bags these days, I actually hate dispensing directly from the stop loss bags, so I fill one of these little bottles for much easier use. I try to finish up what is in one of the bottles quickly though, as they are apparently not all that air tight.
 
One problem with plastic bottles (especially as typically made from LDPE) holding finishes or other liquids - if stored for a long time, some of what's inside can evaporate through the plastic and the bottles will develop a vacuum and start distorting with the sides "caving" in. I have no idea what this might do to finishes. I also have bottles for when I bottle honey. Don't know if they are better but the plastic is a different type and thicker. The best plastic bottles I've seen come with excellent seals - those used by Mercury Adhesives for CA glue. The plastic is much thicker.

Yeah, caved in is the appearance these bottles have. It seems to be worse with the danish oil. I also have some BLO that I distributed into a bunch of them, even before I did the DO. The BLO bottles did not seem to cave in as much, and in fact, I haven't checked if the oil is thicker now or not. The DO, though, I think, is a rather reactive "drying" oil, and it seems like it started to polymerize. So is it that volatiles are just escaping, or is oxygen also getting pulled in and polymerizing the oil a bit?
 
So is it that volatiles are just escaping, or is oxygen also getting pulled in and polymerizing the oil a bit?

I suspect the former. But maybe both? Never weighed it but perhaps the thickened parts are becoming more dense - pulling what they need from even a sealed bottle with a bit of oxygen or whatever already present in the container. To answer that properly would require some careful analysis with the right equipment, preferably done by someone with some real experience and knowledge of the chemistry. I am unqualified.

I do fall back to the observation that much finish life anxiety can be resolved with a small cylinder of pure argon. It's not even necessary to buy an expensive regulator but a simple and inexpensive balloon filler - it has a gauge to show how much gas is left, a flexible nozzle that opens when bending it a bit one way or another. Made to fill helium balloons but the gauge and valve don't know that. Gas comes out the end which can be connected to a flexible plastic tube for use with bottles and cans of finish.

1762888693862.jpeg

I keep several of these, filled at the moment with helium in the event of a sudden need to make a kid happy or the desire to talk with a helium voice. (Danger, Will Robinson, first learn the risks!)

JKJ
 
I suspect the former. But maybe both? Never weighed it but perhaps the thickened parts are becoming more dense - pulling what they need from even a sealed bottle with a bit of oxygen or whatever already present in the container. To answer that properly would require some careful analysis with the right equipment, preferably done by someone with some real experience and knowledge of the chemistry. I am unqualified.

I do fall back to the observation that much finish life anxiety can be resolved with a small cylinder of pure argon. It's not even necessary to buy an expensive regulator but a simple and inexpensive balloon filler - it has a gauge to show how much gas is left, a flexible nozzle that opens when bending it a bit one way or another. Made to fill helium balloons but the gauge and valve don't know that. Gas comes out the end which can be connected to a flexible plastic tube for use with bottles and cans of finish.

View attachment 81430

I keep several of these, filled at the moment with helium in the event of a sudden need to make a kid happy or the desire to talk with a helium voice. (Danger, Will Robinson, first learn the risks!)

JKJ

Oh yea. As I've shared before, I use stop loss bags now, and I use these small bottles to make application easier. I suspect I'll lose most of this danish oil here in the not too distant future, but, it doesn't seem completely bad just yet, and it gives a satin sheen that I don't get normally. FWIW, none of it is hardened, and, the thickening is completely uniform within the bottles. There were some bits of the finish that had fully hardened, but only around the caps...in fact, most of them have a danish oil "o-ring" between the cap and the rim of the bottle, which is interesting. But its not like some parts of the bottle are gel or hard, and others are still normal oil. The entirety of the oil within, seems to have thickened consistently throughout the bottle. Its more of a thick-ish syrup now, rather than a freely flowing oil.

Here are a couple photos. The BLO, is proibably over 2.5 years old. The Danish Oil (natural) about two or so. The Tung I picked up at the very end of last year and bagged it new years day. :D

IMG_20251111_131952.jpg

You can see what happened with the DO bottles more closely here:

IMG_20251111_132051 (1).jpg

This one was the worst of the lot. I think it was the last bottle I filled, and wasn't completely full. So it had more oxygen in there... But, looking at it, it doesn't seem as though the oil pulled up into the cap at all. So maybe there is something else going on here, not related to oxygen... The one I added turpentien to, has some chunks from the cap that I thought I might try to dissolve (nope!)
 
Oxygen and heat are your storage enemies. Oils and wine share the same. Life is too short for spoiled wine or oils.

BTW Jon, if you squeeze the bottle, it will force the extra air out if you really want a fair comparison. LOL
 
Oxygen and heat are your storage enemies. Oils and wine share the same. Life is too short for spoiled wine or oils.

BTW Jon, if you squeeze the bottle, it will force the extra air out if you really want a fair comparison. LOL
I store all the finishes in my house, where it is 68-70 all the time. So I don't think the oils have been subjected to any kind of excessive heat?

Not quite sure I understand the fair comparison bit, though... When I first filled these, they were all up to the rim of the bottle. I actually never punched a hole in the top of the little yorker caps, to try and keep them more air tight until I used them. so there wasn't any way to squeeze the air out of the cone-shaped caps. The only one here that actually has a cap with a hole poked in it is the one I thinned with turpentine. The other two still haven't been opened since I first filled them...which at this point was two years or more.

FWIW though, I hear you about not wasting time on spoiled wine or oils. Everything I'm turning right now I've been finishing with the tung oil, which is newer and has been kept in a stop loss since I bought it.
 
I store all the finishes in my house, where it is 68-70 all the time. So I don't think the oils have been subjected to any kind of excessive heat?
For some finishes (and most wines and beers) 68 to 70 IS excessive heat... They'd do better stored nearer to 35-40 degrees .. Other finishes may store better nearer to 60-65 I dont know of too many that store well above that.. heat accelerates the polymerization and/or oxidation - JMHO... I store mine out to the back room of the garage low down where it's never below freezing, and rarely gets above 60 even in mid summer and it is also quite dark so no sunlight getting there either...
 
For some finishes (and most wines and beers) 68 to 70 IS excessive heat... They'd do better stored nearer to 35-40 degrees .. Other finishes may store better nearer to 60-65 I dont know of too many that store well above that.. heat accelerates the polymerization and/or oxidation - JMHO... I store mine out to the back room of the garage low down where it's never below freezing, and rarely gets above 60 even in mid summer and it is also quite dark so no sunlight getting there either...

I don't know if I can achieve those levels. Garage is 80+ during the summer, and usually well above 70 at night. During the winter the garage is freezing or below every night, and maybe around 40 during the day. I guess in my basement where I keep most of them, it is probably around 65 most of the time during the warmer months, and probably around 55 during the winter.
 
I don't know if I can achieve those levels. Garage is 80+ during the summer, and usually well above 70 at night. During the winter the garage is freezing or below every night, and maybe around 40 during the day. I guess in my basement where I keep most of them, it is probably around 65 most of the time during the warmer months, and probably around 55 during the winter.
Here's an idea: get an old scrapped refrigerator off facebook or somewhere (or from the dump if its allowed, etc) - They tend to be well insulated and quite dark, even if they don't cool, you can put a bag of ice in every now and then, keep door closed until needed for storage - chances are good it'll maintain a fairly constant temperature for you through the seasons... I thought about it myself (as well as a fridge to make a kiln) but just no room for it in my shop at the moment (I do want to get one at some point for finish storage.. it'd double as a sort of fire safety thing too..) While my shop temperatures can reach 80 or higher in summer time (I've had indoor temps as high as 95) , it never falls below 40 degrees, at least in most of the shop, due to that being the lowest setting on the thermostat for my hot dawg propane furnace... but that "back room" of the shop is generally dark and sort of closed off, so remains pretty cool in summer, and hasn't frozen in winter....
 
Getting off topic, but I ask this from time to time. Do you fellas have the opportunity to tighten up and insulate your shops to stabilize the temperatures? Overall, it is a good investment in your comfort, stabilizes moisture issues, and in the case of recent posts, it would help for finishes as well.

My modest single-car sized space (11' x 21' wall to wall), over 20 years ago I furred the 2x4 wall studs to get 6" fiberglass in the walls and installed OSB sheets as the wall surface (I like the look in the shop, but could be painted, too). The attic over the shop is insulated as well. I have a window AC set to automatic for summertime cooling and humidity control (keeps it about 71-72 all summer), and a 5000 watt electric unit heater hanging from the ceiling, set for about 64-65 degrees all winter. A small, insulated space is easy, and rather low cost, to keep comfortable and stable throught the year.
 
Be careful re-purposing old refrigerators for other non-cold purposes. Sometimes mold blooms can occur behind the interior lining on the insulation. Probably not much of an issue if the fridge was in a normally maintained home, but if there is any doubt about the hygiene of that fridge or where it was last set up, leave it at the curb where you found it.
 
As a retired pharmacist, here is a thought for you. Go to a local independent pharmacy and ask them to buy a case for you of plastic 2oz, 3oz, 4oz, 6oz, or 8oz plastic liquid bottles like the kind cough syrup is dispensed. Inexpensive, UV light protected, and just right to keep the air out to prevent oxidation from occurring and you can get the size you want. Buy a big can and pour up in the small bottles. You can also pull the outer child proof cover on the cap and make it easy open for all you old farts that need to get the grandchild to open for you.

Webb, I found these on Amazon. Is this what you're referring to? Do you think they might be cheaper at a pharmacy or does this look like a reasonable price?

 
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