Sanding myths and realities

[Alan Weinberg]

I don’t like sanding. I know it’s necessary. I want to get better at it so I’ve talked to turners, read a bunch, watched YouTubes. But I’m still a bit confused. Probably boils down to “do what works for you.”

Some of the facts—or myths:

1. different abrasives—which is best
2. lathe speed from real slow to 500 rpm
3. reverse, forward, or alternate forward and reverse between grits
4. power sand, hand sand, or combination
5. lighting from an oblique angle
6. grit progression—never more than 50% more than prior grit
7. raise the grain early or late, or not at all, water or another liquid
8. sand to 320 or to 1000 or more, depends on wood, the piece, planned finish, etc.
9. change abrasive disc often to rarely
10. soft or firm for disc backing
11. sand with grain or sanding direction does not matter.
12. Wet, dry, or a combination.
13. On or off lathe sanding or combination.
14. skip sanding and just embellish.

Tell me your thoughts.

 

[Bernie Kopfer]

I would like to add one more. When to use sanding grit/paste? I will attempt an answer to #1. I have been using Abranet for hand sanding and enjoy its consistent results. Also works well when power sanding in the 80-120 range, particularly if doing some final shaping, or removing tearout. This is just my experience, others will vary.

 

[Doug Rasmussen]

An important function of sanding that's rarely mentioned is the blending of curves like in an ogee. Even the best hand turners have difficulty creating the perfect tangency with their turning tools such that it can't be felt by hand. The flexibility of the sanding pad achieves the tangent blending.

A downside of sanding is it can destroy fine details. OT folks don't sand for this reason, but they don't need to either because their tools are not hand guided. Same with CNC, the design software assures curves are tangentially blended and CNC cuts don't need much sanding anyway because the ultra sharp, rigid tools don't create conditions needing much sanding.

I've read about auto body repair people using a shop rag under their hand to enhance the feel of non-smooth curve blends, not sure why the rag helps. With highly reflective surfaces the importance of smooth blends is magnified.

 

[Ron Solfest]

Unfortunately I've become familiar enough with sanding that I've developed opinions about each of those points, and more. Good for a live discussion, but painful to spend an hour typing. Suffice it to say - "I sand too much!"

 

[Dean Center]

Tell me your thoughts.

I think you're over thinking this.

• Use fresh, sharp sandpaper, any brand you like.
• Start with coarse enough sandpaper to get rid of all the tools marks and defects you are expecting the sandpaper to fix.
• Rotate slowly, don't press too hard, avoid heating up the paper and wood.
• Go through a sequence of grits, with subsequent grits only expected to remove the scratches left by the last grit.
• With spindles, stop after each grit and hand sand parallel to the grain.
• With bowls, I have a strong sense that sanding 'downhill', in the direction you would cut with the tool, is more effective.
• Check your progress after each grit and spot fix any residual scratches before moving on, proper lighting helps.
• As you develop better technique, you should aim for cutting cleanly with your tools in order to leave a tool mark and defect free surface, so you don't have to fix stuff with sandpaper!

As with everything else in woodturning, there are a bazillion ways to do everything, but sanding doesn't have to be complicated. Boring, yes, complicated, no.

 

[Rusty Nesmith]

I don’t like sanding. I know it’s necessary. I want to get better at it so I’ve talked to turners, read a bunch, watched YouTubes. But I’m still a bit confused. Probably boils down to “do what works for you.”

Some of the facts—or myths:

1. different abrasives—which is best
2. lathe speed from real slow to 500 rpm
3. reverse, forward, or alternate forward and reverse between grits
4. power sand, hand sand, or combination
5. lighting from an oblique angle
6. grit progression—never more than 50% more than prior grit
7. raise the grain early or late, or not at all, water or another liquid
8. sand to 320 or to 1000 or more, depends on wood, the piece, planned finish, etc.
9. change abrasive disc often to rarely
10. soft or firm for disc backing
11. sand with grain or sanding direction does not matter.
12. skip sanding and just embellish.

Tell me your thoughts.

This is just what works for me.
1. I use the cheap green 3” oversized discs from Woodturners Wonders. They last a long time and stay cleaner than others I have tried.
2. Around 600.
3. I sand in forward.
4. Power sand with a 90 degree pneumatic die grinder.
5. I have an LED flex light to look for scratches.
6. I normally start at 120 and go through them all to 800.
9. Change them when they stop working.
10. I have the soft pads on all of my mandrel.
11. Doesn’t matter because it is spinning.
12. I never skip sanding.

 

[Scott Hoefs]

I'm a fan of Klingspor's bargain boxes of sandpaper. You get a mix of grits and it's cheap IMO. They also have bargain boxes of hook and loop which work well with the 3 inch or smaller pads. 5-700 rpm's. If you sand on the lathe you tend to get sanding scratches around your piece, so I always either hand sand across the previous sanding direction with the same grit or use an angle drill with a hook and loop pad. this tends to help the sanding process. I also clean my project after each grit so dust doesn't prematurely clog the finer grit. I switch between forward and reverse and typically sand to 600.

 

[odie]

I think you're over thinking this.

• Use fresh, sharp sandpaper, any brand you like.
• Start with coarse enough sandpaper to get rid of all the tools marks and defects you are expecting the sandpaper to fix.
• Rotate slowly, don't press too hard, avoid heating up the paper and wood.
• Go through a sequence of grits, with subsequent grits only expected to remove the scratches left by the last grit.
• With spindles, stop after each grit and hand sand parallel to the grain.
• With bowls, I have a strong sense that sanding 'downhill', in the direction you would cut with the tool, is more effective.
• Check your progress after each grit and spot fix any residual scratches before moving on, proper lighting helps.
• As you develop better technique, you should aim for cutting cleanly with your tools in order to leave a tool mark and defect free surface, so you don't have to fix stuff with sandpaper!

As with everything else in woodturning, there are a bazillion ways to do everything, but sanding doesn't have to be complicated. Boring, yes, complicated, no.

^^^^^ This response from Dean is probably the best answer that will be posted to this thread. As I read the replies, I have mulled over my own thoughts, and I have a lot in common with @Ron Solfest, in his response below....and his thoughts that it could be a very long response, considering all the possible things that could and does lead one to make adjustments to the current situation.....

Unfortunately I've become familiar enough with sanding that I've developed opinions about each of those points, and more. Good for a live discussion, but painful to spend an hour typing. Suffice it to say - "I sand too much!"

As with anything, the more you do it, the better you get at doing it......and, the directions I've evolved to, may not be the same as anyone else's course, as the result of their own personal evolvement.....but, the one thing that truly matters in every case is: "Results are the only thing that counts!"... and how one gets there may not be the path most traveled!


-o-

 

[hockenbery]

your thoughts.

I do my sanding off the lathe on once turned NE bowls and HFs i dry them for 2-3 days then sand
gemini.google.com produced this photo of my assistant

 

[robo hippy]

Perhaps I need to do my sanding video over.... So, for me, I looked at the inertial sanders and said no. Main reason is that you can't sand when the lathe is stopped, which with some tear out prone woods is necessary. I did try hand sanding, but went to power sanding exclusively, with the possible exception of spindles which have fewer tear out issues than bowls. Slow speeds are essential, main reason being that high speeds generate heat, and the abrasives don't really get the chance to 'gain traction' and dig in and cut. Same with the amount of pressure you use, too hard and you generate heat. High speed and high pressure will wear out your sanders a LOT faster too. No putting foam between your fingers and the wood if you are hand sanding, because the heat does not go away, but into the wood. For power sanding, I still go with the blue discs from Vince Welch at VinceswoodNwonders. They cut better than any other disc I have ever used and I generally get several bowls from each set of discs before I toss them. For the pads I use, I stick with a firm pad, the one with the 1/4 round edge for grits up to 180 to 220, and then medium pads, which fit into curves better than soft pads, up to 400 and I don't go beyond that because all of my pieces are intended for daily use. Above 400 grit, you kind of just polishing out scratches rather than sanding, if that makes any sense, and the soft pads are fine for that. The thing with the firm pads is that they cut far more efficiently with the coarser grits than they do on a soft pad, and the difference is huge. Same for the abranet abrasives, they don't work as well as standard abrasives with the coarser grits, up to the 180 to 220 grit range, then performance is pretty much equal. My guess is that with the coarser grits on the woven discs is that there is too much open area, which means there is more grit to cut with on standard abrasives. For lathe speeds, I sand my warped bowls at 10 to 15 rpm. Any speeds over that, and you just can't keep the abrasives on the wood as it spins. Check out my video on 'articulated arm for bowl sanding' which is another video I need to do over. What that does is allow me to spin the bowl by hand for the first grit or two, which is really handy for actually seeing what progress you are making. It is easy to do since the articulated arm totally supports the sander and your arm so all that arm has to do is pull the trigger. I can't sand out bowls without it any more. I do keep those rubber eraser sticks around too. Mostly, they can extend the useable life of your discs for a bit. Not forever, but for a bit. My progression is mostly starting at 120, but some times 100, and once in a while 80. So, if I start at 80, I go to 100, 120, 150, 180, 220, 320, and 400. I do not skip those grits ever. Main reason is it cuts down on the number of times I have to start over because I see 80 or 100 grit scratches after getting to the higher grits. I do wipe them down a bit with my hands in the higher grits. What this does is it will work the fine dust into any scratches left from the coarse grits, which makes it easier to see those scratches. Finally, as one turner over at Wood Turner's Resource said, "Never take your piece from the shop into the house on a sunny day. Sunlight causes scratches!". I prefer natural spectrum lighting. I used Blue Max lights for years, which had florescent bulbs in them. They were similar to the Ott lamps that the quilters and needle point people use. I have switched to 'Bright Reader' LED lights now, which I got from the same source, and they are natural spectrum type LEDs. When the LEDs first came out they were very white, and that did kind of hide scratches from me. Our eyes have evolved to see in natural sun light, not most standard lighting. Oh, getting prescription glasses helped a lot compared to the 'reading glasses' in the big box stores. Dust collection is huge! All sorts of sanding hoods, and do take a peek at mine. I can sand for hours and zero dust on my glasses or in my nose. Black hole/big gulp type hoods are okay, but you still need to wear a mask.

robo hippy

 

[Richard Coers]

Just watch videos here. https://vinceswoodnwonders.com/

 

[Steve Tiedman]

Lots of processes given here. The only thing I will add is that my last step is to grab a big handful of shavings (no bark, no thick strips, just nice, clean, fluffy ribbons) and burnish/polish the wood at about tool cutting speed. Moderate pressure and keep the wad of shavings moving around as the wood spins.

I have not done this in a long time, but "they" say paper grocery bag is similar to 2000 grit abrasive paper, use it for burnishing the wood.

 

[Kent Reisdorph]

I don’t like sanding. I know it’s necessary. I want to get better at it so I’ve talked to turners, read a bunch, watched YouTubes. But I’m still a bit confused. Probably boils down to “do what works for you.”

Some of the facts—or myths:

1. different abrasives—which is best
2. lathe speed from real slow to 500 rpm
3. reverse, forward, or alternate forward and reverse between grits
4. power sand, hand sand, or combination
5. lighting from an oblique angle
6. grit progression—never more than 50% more than prior grit
7. raise the grain early or late, or not at all, water or another liquid
8. sand to 320 or to 1000 or more, depends on wood, the piece, planned finish, etc.
9. change abrasive disc often to rarely
10. soft or firm for disc backing
11. sand with grain or sanding direction does not matter.
12. Wet, dry, or a combination.
13. On or off lathe sanding or combination.
14. skip sanding and just embellish.

Tell me your thoughts.

A lot of these questions are answered in this article: Bowl Sanding Tools and Finish Techniques.

 

[Doug Freeman]

Many rabbit holes to go down with this one. In the end, you will try different things associated with your list, and find the path that produces the best result in your eyes (and hands, feel is important). Here are some I believe to be factual, but others may disagree:

1. Heat is the enemy. Hi speed is bad. It will ruin sanding pads quickly. If its too hot for your fingers to hold, its too hot to continue sanding.
2. Sandpaper is a tool. It gets dull. Sharp tools work better - change the surface often. Time/experience will teach when to change paper/disc.
3. If needed, raise grain late (only waterbased finishes need it). Doing it early, fresh unraised fibers will be uncovered defeating the purpose.
4. Paper/grit type - mainly opinion driven, not a lot of facts - I have my favs as do others.
5. Inertia sanders are a waste.
6. Power and hand sanding have their place. Spindle work is mostly hand unless larger dia. Both drill and ros have their uses.
7. Sanding on or off the lathe is purely choice. I prefer on the lathe if possible.
8. Grit to stop with is a function of the finish type/method and desired result.
9. Disc pad firmness is a function of grit size.more firm does more dimensional change.
10. Raking light will show more defects

 

[Steve Chaplin]

Like Robo does, I don't skip grits in the lower ranges. I know conventional knowledge is you can go 50% higher on the number but my experience is all the scratches come from lower grits and taking smaller steps till you get to at least 180 greatly reduces the do over. Many scratches are not that noticeable till you get to the higher grits, then its start over. What's worse is seeing them after putting on some finish.

 

[Larry Mercier]

Perhaps I need to do my sanding video over.... So, for me, I looked at the inertial sanders and said no. Main reason is that you can't sand when the lathe is stopped, which with some tear out prone woods is necessary. I did try hand sanding, but went to power sanding exclusively, with the possible exception of spindles which have fewer tear out issues than bowls. Slow speeds are essential, main reason being that high speeds generate heat, and the abrasives don't really get the chance to 'gain traction' and dig in and cut. Same with the amount of pressure you use, too hard and you generate heat. High speed and high pressure will wear out your sanders a LOT faster too. No putting foam between your fingers and the wood if you are hand sanding, because the heat does not go away, but into the wood. For power sanding, I still go with the blue discs from Vince Welch at VinceswoodNwonders. They cut better than any other disc I have ever used and I generally get several bowls from each set of discs before I toss them. For the pads I use, I stick with a firm pad, the one with the 1/4 round edge for grits up to 180 to 220, and then medium pads, which fit into curves better than soft pads, up to 400 and I don't go beyond that because all of my pieces are intended for daily use. Above 400 grit, you kind of just polishing out scratches rather than sanding, if that makes any sense, and the soft pads are fine for that. The thing with the firm pads is that they cut far more efficiently with the coarser grits than they do on a soft pad, and the difference is huge. Same for the abranet abrasives, they don't work as well as standard abrasives with the coarser grits, up to the 180 to 220 grit range, then performance is pretty much equal. My guess is that with the coarser grits on the woven discs is that there is too much open area, which means there is more grit to cut with on standard abrasives. For lathe speeds, I sand my warped bowls at 10 to 15 rpm. Any speeds over that, and you just can't keep the abrasives on the wood as it spins. Check out my video on 'articulated arm for bowl sanding' which is another video I need to do over. What that does is allow me to spin the bowl by hand for the first grit or two, which is really handy for actually seeing what progress you are making. It is easy to do since the articulated arm totally supports the sander and your arm so all that arm has to do is pull the trigger. I can't sand out bowls without it any more. I do keep those rubber eraser sticks around too. Mostly, they can extend the useable life of your discs for a bit. Not forever, but for a bit. My progression is mostly starting at 120, but some times 100, and once in a while 80. So, if I start at 80, I go to 100, 120, 150, 180, 220, 320, and 400. I do not skip those grits ever. Main reason is it cuts down on the number of times I have to start over because I see 80 or 100 grit scratches after getting to the higher grits. I do wipe them down a bit with my hands in the higher grits. What this does is it will work the fine dust into any scratches left from the coarse grits, which makes it easier to see those scratches. Finally, as one turner over at Wood Turner's Resource said, "Never take your piece from the shop into the house on a sunny day. Sunlight causes scratches!". I prefer natural spectrum lighting. I used Blue Max lights for years, which had florescent bulbs in them. They were similar to the Ott lamps that the quilters and needle point people use. I have switched to 'Bright Reader' LED lights now, which I got from the same source, and they are natural spectrum type LEDs. When the LEDs first came out they were very white, and that did kind of hide scratches from me. Our eyes have evolved to see in natural sun light, not most standard lighting. Oh, getting prescription glasses helped a lot compared to the 'reading glasses' in the big box stores. Dust collection is huge! All sorts of sanding hoods, and do take a peek at mine. I can sand for hours and zero dust on my glasses or in my nose. Black hole/big gulp type hoods are okay, but you still need to wear a mask.

robo hippy

Thanks for sharing your expertise. Hours on the lathe add to evolutions of processes, but only if you observe what changes occur as you spend those hours.. It is very obvious that you are a keen observer of those changes.

 

[Curt Fuller]

I've found that my best solution for solving sanding problems is a combination of basket illusion, texturing, and pyrography.

 

[Paul May]

I like sanding. It really completes me. 😳

 

[Alan Weinberg]

I like sanding. It really completes me. 😳

I’ll mail you mine!

 

[Kent Reisdorph]

I have had an interesting experience lately. I used a random orbital pneumatic sander for a year. Recently I purchased a right-angle drill for sanding. I was shocked at the difference. The slower speed of the drill works MUCH better at the the lower grits than does the air sander. However, it leaves more scratches than the RO. I'm still working on my sanding strategy, but I know I'll be using the electric to remove tool marks. It works that much better than the air sander. I may use the air sander for 180-320 grits. Still experimenting.

 

[robo hippy]

I do use ROSs some times, but more for flat work. I did find that they work better for the higher grits, like 220 and above, but not as well for coarser grits. I haven't found anything better than the angle drills, yet. While not an engineer by trade, I do think like one. If you don't know, and I blame it on my dad, engineers: If it ain't broke, take it apart and fix it anyway. I am always 'experimenting'....

robo hippy

 

[John Tisdale]

I, arguably, spend as much or more time sanding per piece than most. Then again, I do large hollow-forms out of some of the hardest woods in N. America and spray at least 12-coats of very hard, catalyzed finishes on each piece. Sanding is much more than a means to an end - it is no less a part of the final product than the turning. When you think about it, buying the least expensive aluminum oxide from a big box store is akin to buying a gouge at Harbor Freight ($10.49 for a set of 8). And if we all agree that sharpness and durability are desirable in a gouge, why not in sandpaper?
Suggestions: 1) Buy the good stuff (3M, Red Label, Eagle), 2) Lighten up - sanding is not a pressure sport, 3) Slow down - speed adds nothing. 4) Do more hand sanding
Like Clayton Williams said when running for governor of TX: "Relax and enjoy it". Maybe a poor analogy: he wasn't talking about sanding plus he lost.

 

[Doug Freeman]

I have had an interesting experience lately. I used a random orbital pneumatic sander for a year. Recently I purchased a right-angle drill for sanding. I was shocked at the difference. The slower speed of the drill works MUCH better at the the lower grits than does the air sander. However, it leaves more scratches than the RO. I'm still working on my sanding strategy, but I know I'll be using the electric to remove tool marks. It works that much better than the air sander. I may use the air sander for 180-320 grits. Still experimenting.

Same experience several yrs ago. Not sure what size pad/discs you are using, but I’ve found that the same size disc and pad scratch deeper/worse vs the disc being slightly larger. I use discs that 3/8” dia larger than the pad. I start with ros ~ 180-320, just depends. If I had to use “80 gr gouge” I may use ros at ~120, after the drill at same grit - to your point, scratches arent as deep.

 

[Kent Reisdorph]

Same experience several yrs ago. Not sure what size pad/discs you are using, but I’ve found that the same size disc and pad scratch deeper/worse vs the disc being slightly larger. I use discs that 3/8” dia larger than the pad. I start with ros ~ 180-320, just depends. If I had to use “80 gr gouge” I may use ros at ~120, after the drill at same grit - to your point, scratches arent as deep.

I'm glad it isn't just me. I'm using 2" and 3" mandrels with regular sized discs. I'll check out some oversized discs.

 

[Darryl Fective]

A wise man once told me: Learn to turn well, or learn to sand well.

 

[odie]

A wise man once told me: Learn to turn well, or learn to sand well.

Darryl.....that is great!

I'll remember that one!

Matter of fact, I'm going to put that saying in my shop somewhere!

-o-

 

[Doug Freeman]

I'll check out some oversized discs.

I get them from Vince’s woodnwonders

 

[Rusty Nesmith]

I like the ones from Woodturners Wonders.

Remover Smoother Oversized Sanding Discs

Oversized Remover-Smoother Green sanding discs at a price that can’t be beat! They come in oversized 1” (1.75”), oversized 2” (2.375”), and oversized 3” (3.375”) – grits up to 800 and have a Mylar backing which makes them tear resistant. They can be used wet or dry.

woodturnerswonders.com

 

[hughie]

Well I like to keep it simple and this is what's works for me. I use the inertia type sander for most of the time and occasionally powered sanding. I rarely go over 400 grit, although I do have 800-1000 grit on hand, sand paper is Astra dot by Noritake I use almost exclusively, and I tend to buy in bulk i.e. by the square metre or long rolls 25-50m. The pricing is about 1/3third of the cut discs.
Sand in one direction and rarely if ever lift the grain with water etc and with inertia sander speed is important and pressure are factors of this sander. I have found that the finish they supply is always higher than the grit being used, and this is more pronounced with softer species. OK, heat can be an issue if you get carried away, especially on some of the hardwoods available to me. I have a built a couple of Ranque-Hilsh vortexes for additional cooling, but they don't see much work. Lighting is important, so I have a couple of 1200 watt LED spotlights angled toward the head stock and 1m long LED general light in line with the bed over head. Plus one of those Ikea LED flexible desk lights that has been fitted with a magnetic base for internal viewing of hollow forms etc. I have been known to hand sand the difficult patches but try not to make it a habit.

 

[David Aion]

I don’t like sanding. I know it’s necessary. I want to get better at it so I’ve talked to turners, read a bunch, watched YouTubes. But I’m still a bit confused. Probably boils down to “do what works for you.”

Some of the facts—or myths:

1. different abrasives—which is best
2. lathe speed from real slow to 500 rpm
3. reverse, forward, or alternate forward and reverse between grits
4. power sand, hand sand, or combination
5. lighting from an oblique angle
6. grit progression—never more than 50% more than prior grit
7. raise the grain early or late, or not at all, water or another liquid
8. sand to 320 or to 1000 or more, depends on wood, the piece, planned finish, etc.
9. change abrasive disc often to rarely
10. soft or firm for disc backing
11. sand with grain or sanding direction does not matter.
12. Wet, dry, or a combination.
13. On or off lathe sanding or combination.
14. skip sanding and just embellish.

Tell me your thoughts.

1. spend some extra time to get the best finish right off of the tool
2. power sand through 320
3. light the piece well to do a final visual inspection.
my pieces are mostly utilitarian so a mirror finish isn't necessary

 

[robo hippy]

I did try the Astra Dot discs once, and didn't like them at all. Wore out too quick, and coarse grits just didn't cut any where near as good as solid abrasives. I have been using the blue oversize discs from Vince for a number of years not. They are on a thin mylar backing, so they flex. They also last longer than any other disc I have ever used. Vince used to send me other samples to try, and I always came back to the blue discs. I can get several bowls out of one set of discs. Some of the other abrasives can't even get through one outside of one bowl. I have not been able to find a source for the 3M cubitron discs, which are truly out last every other disc out there by 3 to 1. They apparently are available in hook and loop now. When first out, they were only available in PSA discs.

robo hippy

 

[Alan Weinberg]

I have been using the blue oversize discs from Vince for a number of years

ordered some based on this thread and I’m stunned at how well they cut. I’m happy.

 

[Brian Gustin]

I have not been able to find a source for the 3M cubitron discs, which are truly out last every other disc out there by 3 to 1. They apparently are available in hook and loop now. When first out, they were only available in PSA discs.

Have you checked out taytools.com ? Taylor Toolworks , thats where I get all my cubitron sandpaper - 5 inch and 3 inch disks. (and yes, Hook and Loop)

 

[Bob Vaughan]

There's an age-old saying in woodturning: "Use up sandpaper like John Lucas was paying for it."

 

[robo hippy]

I haven't tried the discs from Tay Tools. I do like the over sized discs from Vince, and would need 3 3/8 inch discs. Having a disc that is the same size as the interface pad can leave serious scratches from the edge of the disc and the edge of the pad. I know Mike Mahoney said he had a source, but I didn't get it from him.

robo hippy

 

[Kevin Weir]

This is a good thread. Myself, I like sanding. The lathe does 99% of the work. Usually start with 180, then 220, 320, 400 and finally 600. Sometimes use 150 for tearout prone woods. The best advice I can give is use sandpaper like you own the sandpaper company. When that gritty surface doesn’t feel like a gritty surface, it’s time to toss it and grab a new piece. Also, I use a backer pad which is a 1/2 inch thick piece of closed cell foam. This helps even the pressure. With difficult woods, I alternate rotary discs with flat sanding using the backer pad.

 

[Darryl Fective]

Darryl.....that is great!

I'll remember that one!

Matter of fact, I'm going to put that saying in my shop somewhere!

-o-

Actually, I'm thinking it may have come from metal shop: Learn to be a good welder, or learn to be a good grinder.

 

[John Grace]

In the spirit of things I think I know about sanding. There are those who occasionally have to start sanding with 80 grit and those who lie that they don't. There is no truer aspect of turning than sanding is an 'every turner for himself' task...we find what works best for us.

 

[Steve Worcester]

There is alot of good info here, I do have a few videos on sanding

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCNoBgcnWlqznebzOs2lB06g

 

[Alan Weinberg]

I have been using the blue oversize discs from Vince for a number of years

I bought on your rec and love them. Just got an ad from Vince re RedFlex discs. Where do they fit in to the sanding scheme compared to blue?