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saw chain

Normally I would agree with you but it’s beyond my ability to bring it back and if it shortens the life by half, I’m ok with that. It’s not that an expensive thing and right now, it’s useless.
 
One thing NOT to do - take it to a sharpening service. They will usually set their machine to sharpen the shortest tooth then run them all, wasting much good steel. Just sharpen the worst teeth separately, only as much as needed, and it won't matter if they are shorter than the others. This can be done with a file or a bit in a dremel, etc.

Of course, you prob know all this.

JKJ
If you take this course, save time and leave the damaged teeth alone. They won't do any more work sharp and shorter than the rest of the teeth than if you leave them dull. For an optimally sharp and productive chain grind all the teeth to the same depth, just as you would with a damaged handsaw or circular saw blade. Don't forget to file the depth limiters. Just my $.02.

Carbide is more resistant to abrasion yet more brittle than steel, won't take as acute an edge, and is more expensive. Better for dirty or silica-rich wood but worse for nails, screws, ceramic insulators and other such crap.
 
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If you take this course, just save time and leave the damaged teeth alone. They won't do any more work sharp and shorter than the rest of the teeth than if you leave them dull. For an optimally sharp and productive chain grind all the teeth to the same depth, just as you would with a damaged handsaw or circular saw blade. Don't forget to file the depth limiters. Just my $.02.
That's good advice in general. I do think it depends somewhat on what you cut and just how many teeth are shorter and whether the short ones are all in the same spot or spaced out on the chain (maybe from the saw bouncing when it hit steel). I'm usually not trying to cut large and straight cuts but cleaning up small limbs and downed trees and limbs around the farm. I very often have some teeth shorter than others from repairing damage but haven't noticed any detriment. It would be interesting to try two saws side by side with different states of unevenness. I suspect the biggest difference would be the aggressiveness of the cut.

I'm sure you know this but in case someone else doesn't: the biggest detriment to a good cut is reducing the length of the teeth by sharpening but without considering the height of the depth gauges. Since the teeth are angled downward, f the gauges are not shortened as needed, the saw will cut poorly or even quit cutting completely. There's a so-called professional sharpening service here and the guy doesn't even know about shortening them - when it won't cut they just tell the customer the chain is worn out and sell him a new chain.

I have a depth gauge test tool (lots of options on Amazon) but can usually judge them by eye with a straight edge. The chain mfgrs recommend filing them but forget that - a small cylindrical stone in a dremel is a lot quicker. Making them too short will make the saw more aggressive and could be dangerous to some.

JKJ
 
Oh good, easily sharpened then. I've sharpened chains a lot of ways but my favorite way is a bench-mounted chainsaw grinder. I've had two, first a cheap one. Get a good one.

I've sharpened for many people and they often tell me the saw is sharper than it's ever been. If you chainsaw a lot it may be worth the investment.

One thing NOT to do - take it to a sharpening service. They will usually set their machine to sharpen the shortest tooth then run them all, wasting much good steel. Just sharpen the worst teeth separately, only as much as needed, and it won't matter if they are shorter than the others. This can be done with a file or a bit in a dremel, etc.

Of course, you prob know all this.

JKJ
Ditto this. Northern tool has a cheap copy around $100 of the Oregon brand $500+ grinder. you have to be a little careful with the cutter adjustments, but it puts a better edge than any file ever could!!
 
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