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Sharpening bandsaw blades

H

Hugh

Joined
May 6, 2004
Messages
676
Likes
166
Location
Sonoma, CA
So, I am basically on the frugal side of life.
I sharpen my bandsaw blades.
I purchase good quality bi-metal blades. When they get dull, I use my micro-motor with a small disk to grind off the top edge.
I did one today. But, was thinking if I should be working in the gullet of the tooth instead. And, if so, what should I be using for a grinding wheel?
I know some of you sharpen your bandsaw blades. So, tell me your approach please.

I know re-sharpened blades do not cut curves as well. I understand that. when I grind the top edge of the tooth, I do not see which way it is angled and try and keep it the same. Straight cuts are just fine most of the time anyway.
Thanks ahead of time.
Hugh
 
I sharpen blades similarly. I take the blade off mark it with a sharpie then touch eachtooth lightly to a fine wheel on the grinder.
Blades with a set I do every other tooth with one set then do every other tooth with the opposite set.
This way I can align with the set and get a rhythm going.
I use the sharpie mark to let me know I’ve finished on side.
I don’t grind the gullets. resharpened blades work well cutting blanks from wet wood.
After 2 sharpening i toss the blade.
 
On the quick side simply spin your blade backwards and hold a sharpening tone against it. This sharpens the outer edge of the tooth and makes them all the same height. It's called jointing on hand saws. If you sharpen the gullet be aware that your teeth have a set. Usually one left one right and one centered. To sharpen those I use chainsaw cutters in my dremel. I put a mark on the blade so I know where to stop. I sharpen all of them that point in one direction. Then shift my stance and do all of the teeth pointing the other way. When you just sharpen the gullet the blade cuts aggressively but leaves a lot of chatter marks. That's OK for roughing blanks. If you joint it after sharpening the gullet it cuts cleaner abd straighter but a little slower. I usually just joint the blade because it only takes seconds. I get these blades from my local sawyer for $12:so when I feel jointing doesn't work well enough I just toss them.
 
I wonder how this compares to carbide over the long haul for cost? Carbide is pricey for sure, but I've never changed one due to dulling. Mostly I cut dry exotic hardwoods for segmenting as well as glued up segmented work. This is pretty hard on a non-carbide blade and I would be changing blades pretty regularly - likely weekly at least. I get years out of a carbide blade and usually change them due to a mishap rather than dulling!!!
 
I no longer find it worthwhile to sharpen blades after learning how to make blades from coils. My blades are 133” at 3 to 4 TPI so that‘s far too many teeth to be grinding one at a time. Although I might try John’s trick of running it backwards against a stone as long as there some set left in in teeth.

Karl Loeblein said:
I braze my blades for an 18“ Jet bandsaw for around $6 to $7 each using blade reels purchased from eBay. Here are some instructions I put together for the process.

https://www.aawforum.org/community/threads/brazing-bandsaw-blades-cut-from-coils.17511/
Click to expand...
 
Karl Loeblein said:
I no longer find it worthwhile to sharpen blades after learning how to make blades from coils. My blades are 133” at 3 to 4 TPI so that‘s far too many teeth to be grinding one at a time. Although I might try John’s trick of running it backwards against a stone as long as there some set left in in teeth.
Click to expand...
Worked great when I tried it the other day, immediate improvement in cutting performance.
 
I was watching a bandsaw mill video on You Tube, and the guy used carbide blades from Woodmizer. They could be resharpened many times. He liked them better than the bimetal blades. Main thing I am wondering, and asked Woodmizer about was if they made those blades for more standard bandsaws. Haven't heard back from them yet. May have to bug them since the 'hobby' market is pretty big. I did get one carbide tipped blade from Lennox, but it is not able to be resharpened. The carbide tips are very small.

I have run the bandsaw backwards with a diamond card on it, and couldn't tell that I did anything to the blade. May have to try a few more times. John, what grit do you use? Since I got into flat work, I have some very fine stones....

robo hippy
 
Mine doesn't have carbide teeth welded on, the blade looks like a std blade but it is somehow impregnated with carbide. I don't know the make, I bought it from Grizzly a while ago. Also don't know if it can be sharpened. They seem to sell them in many sizes.
 
Thanks Everyone. Always good to find that I am not too far off the norm.
Sharp bandsaw blades cause less problems when cutting. I like that.
Same goes for chainsaws.
 
Steve Bonny said:
I wonder how this compares to carbide over the long haul for cost? Carbide is pricey for sure, but I've never changed one due to dulling. Mostly I cut dry exotic hardwoods for segmenting as well as glued up segmented work. This is pretty hard on a non-carbide blade and I would be changing blades pretty regularly - likely weekly at least. I get years out of a carbide blade and usually change them due to a mishap rather than dulling!!!
Click to expand...

I went through regular blades fast ripping hard woods. I switched to carbide and wouldn't go back. Expensive, yes, (about $130) but worth it for me.
 
Steve Bonny said:
Mine doesn't have carbide teeth welded on, the blade looks like a std blade but it is somehow impregnated with carbide. I don't know the make, I bought it from Grizzly a while ago. Also don't know if it can be sharpened. They seem to sell them in many sizes.
Click to expand...
I’d love to see an up close picture of that blade Steve!

I love my carbide tipped blades….I do not cut green wood with them; I feel your pain John Lucas. Bloodwood and Purpleheart still take the edge off of them albeit not as quick as a standard blade. They do not sharpen well based on my experience.
 
Russ Braun said:
I’d love to see an up close picture of that blade Steve!

I love my carbide tipped blades….I do not cut green wood with them; I feel your pain John Lucas. Bloodwood and Purpleheart still take the edge off of them albeit not as quick as a standard blade. They do not sharpen well based on my experience.
Click to expand...
Here is a link to the blade I bought. I've had it for a little over 1 year so far.
www.grizzly.com

143" x 5/8" x .025" x 3 TPI Hook Carbide-Embedded Bandsaw Blade at Grizzly.com

<h1>T23956 143" x 5/8" x .025" x 3 TPI Hook Carbide-Embedded Bandsaw Blade</h1> <h2>A premium 143" carbide hook blade for ripping boards to size.</h2> <p>The 143" length blade fits the Grizzly G0514 series of 19" bandsaws.</p> <p>These steel blades have carbide teeth which will cut faster and...
www.grizzly.com www.grizzly.com

Best I could do for a pic with my crappy old phone
20231031_090623.jpg
 
robo hippy said:
I was watching a bandsaw mill video on You Tube, and the guy used carbide blades from Woodmizer. They could be resharpened many times. He liked them better than the bimetal blades. Main thing I am wondering, and asked Woodmizer about was if they made those blades for more standard bandsaws. Haven't heard back from them yet. May have to bug them since the 'hobby' market is pretty big. I did get one carbide tipped blade from Lennox, but it is not able to be resharpened. The carbide tips are very small.

I have run the bandsaw backwards with a diamond card on it, and couldn't tell that I did anything to the blade. May have to try a few more times. John, what grit do you use? Since I got into flat work, I have some very fine stones....

robo hippy
Click to expand...
It's a fine gray wetstone. Not sure what grit but if I compare it to sandpaper probably 220 grit.
 
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