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Ten questions

Tried & True Danish Oil. Pure polymorized linseed oil (made the old fashioned way, by cooking it), no solvents or chemical driers. Food safe, but give it 30 days for a full cure (as you should for any food contact finish).
https://www.triedandtruewoodfinish.com/products/danish-oil/

Or, Tried & True Original Wood Finish, everything the same as above, but it has beeswax in it, too.
https://www.triedandtruewoodfinish.com/products/original-wood-finish/

They have a Varnish Oil as well, it builds a minor surface film after a few coats due to having pine resin in the oil (no beeswax) I wouldn't bother with this one for food contact, I'd go with the two above. All T&T products, a little goes a long way, buy the small/pint cans. Apply light coats, and wipe-wipe-wipe it all off after a few minutes. I use them all on round and flat wood projects, great stuff. And practice safe rag disposal. (I burn my oily paper towels outside in a large steel bucket after application.)

Or, do what they did for centuries and leave it naked. Use it, clean it by hand (no dishwashers), dry it, and repeat the next day.
 
Darryl Fective said:
Word of caution for anyone new to finishing: Boiled linseed oil has the ability to self-ignite if rags aren't disposed of properly. It may be possible with other finishes/chemicals, but BLO is the one I've heard about.
Click to expand...

All "curing" oils create heat during the curing (full polymorization process, liquid molecules converting to solid molecule chains)- linseed, tung, (boiled or raw) and any others that cure into solid. All oil-based varnishes and finishes will have the spontanious combustion warning on the labels. I do not soak the rags in a water container, still an issue after the water dries from the rags. (Funny, they NEVER tell you how, and after how long, to dispose of the oily, watery rags, nor the oil film water. Not down your plumbing system.) Sometimes I spread the rag out on the concrete floor for a few days until the rag is hard, away from anything that can burn. Usually I take the burn process into my own hands and burn them in a large (3 gal or so) steel bucket out in my driveway, watching them until the embers go cold, usually just a few minutes. If burning embers can blow in the wind, make a piece of 1/2" mesh steel screen into a bucket cover to control any blow away embers.
 
I've landed on Sutherland-Welles Polymerized Tung Oil. Heat treated, no chemical dryers, only solvent is D-Limonene, otherwise pure tung oil. Corey's Skin Boats makes a similar product. I do a couple/3 coats.
 
S/W still has some extra stuff in the oil, from their website linked below-
"Polymerization of Tung oil allows use to use small quantities of very low toxic chemical driers and we add VOC exempt and low VOC solvents making out[r] Polymerized Tung Oil Wood Finishes environmentally friendly.

Did you know that a product can call itself a Tung Oil Finish and contain very little to no tung oil? All of our Polymerized Tung Oil products contain a minimum of 25% tung oil in their formulations, quite a few contain more, the higher the product’s luster the more tung oil in the formulation."
https://www.sutherlandwelles.com/original-formula-interior
Only 25%, or more, actual tung oil? The marketing dept. is playing fast and loose. Shocking. SDS sheets are at the bottom of that linked page, and depending on which of their 4 tung oil products you choose, they contain 45-75% petrolleum distillates. The SDS sheets do not state any tung oil component in the blends, but if we take it at face value, 25-55% of their various recipes may be real tung oil. Good stuff, I'm sure, but I like to know what I'm buying so I'm well informed. Wouldn't stop me from using it. I used 100% pure tung oils, and homemade tung oil/varnish blends, for years.

The SDS for Tried & True products lists 80-99% linseed oil, and 1-20% earth pigments (they make some stains based on their oil products), zero VOCs and metallic dryers. They don't list the beeswax on the SDS, not sure if that is a reportable ingredient.
https://www.triedandtruewoodfinish.com/about/environmental-standards/
SDS-
https://s3.gomedia.ws/wp-content/uploads/sites/11/2016/03/FBC-TRIED-AND-TRUE-OWF_MTR_GHSF_EN.pdf
 
I'm making once turned bowls. When turning finished I record the weight, in grams, on the tenon and place in a paper bag on the concrete floor (which is on the ground). Weigh and record the weight once a week. When weight loss week to week less than 2% I draw a line under the most recent weight, put back in the bag and move the bag off the floor. Continue weekly weighing and recording, when weight loss week to week again less than 2% I draw a line under that weight, put the bag away, continue weighing once a week and recording. When weight loss week to week again less than 2% I draw a double line under that weight and consider the bowl stable with the moisture conditions in the studio, can sand and apply finish whenever.
 
More specifics would allow better answers. With that said, for small handheld hollowing I’d recommend Hunter tools; there are small ornament tools as well as the Osprey which will allow you to hollow cups etc from a few inches to several depending on your skills. For larger hollowing the Jamieson (or others) will serve you well.
 
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I made mine out of an old lab drying box, which his stainless with a glass front and back. I wrapped in 2" insulation board and drill holes in the top for ventilation. I'm using 2 oven bulbs. Others use old fridges. They work if you build them right and have adequate controls/monitoring. I only use in the colder months - October through March. After that the room temperature is generally hot enough (too hot in July & August). You have to control both the temperature & humidity. I put a pan of water in for the first few weeks. I use a Govee wireless bluetooth monitor that gives me history on humidity and temperature, and an analog temperature gauge too. I also have it on a thermostat set to 80 or 85 degrees. The higher temp is when using the water pan. Pan usually lasts a couple of days before needing to be refilled. I'm still learning to use mine most efficiently, but so far no cracked bowls.
 
Darryl Fective said:
the ability to self-ignite if rags aren't disposed of properly
Click to expand...
since I have on plastic disposable rubber latex gloves when I use oil, I simply grab the rags when done, invert first one glove over the rags, then the other, tying a knot in the outer glove. Then right in the trash. No oxygen = no chance of fire.
 
Hollowing tools, well I use the shielded variety such as the Woodcut Pro-Forme and the Rolly Munro Wunderkut 10 and recommend them.
 
I had all 3 (but I had the original Woodcut). The first one I got rid of was the McNaughton, it was by far the hardest to learn and use. I cored many bowls with the Woodcut as it was easy to learn but was the least versatile with it being tied to the tailstock. The one I kept and use is the Oneway, for me it is the easiest to use and set up and it is a lot more versatile than it is given credit for. I never had problems using the Oneway cutters as I learned to sharpen them from Chris Ramsey. But I would have never known the Oneway cutters difficulties if I had not gotten the Korpro from Mike Hunter. Having used both is like night and day the Korpro is just fantastic and worth every penny.
 
Alan Weinberg said:
since I have on plastic disposable rubber latex gloves when I use oil, I simply grab the rags when done, invert first one glove over the rags, then the other, tying a knot in the outer glove. Then right in the trash. No oxygen = no chance of fire.
Click to expand...
Hello Alan. I don't agree with your practice. Granted, the conditions need to be right (amount of fuel, amount of oxygen, and an ignition source, which in this case is the heat generated by the oxidizing oil in the rags, and that oil has a pretty low igntion temp) for your gloved rags to self-ignite, but if that were to happen, you may have a disaster on your hands. Example- if the amount of oil is small but concentrated, and if there is just enough air in the gloves to support the heat generating polymerization process, and if the total rag and glove package can't dissipate that heat because the room is warm and the trash in your can is insulating that heat dissipation, you may have a fire on your hands. Fire investigators will likely find the origin (location) of the start of the fire, and even if they can't pinpoint the source of the ignition, you'll know the likely cause.

The fire could also start once it's away from your shop, as in the garbage truck. (Edit- or sitting in a garbage can in the sun on a hot summer day.) Fed laws regulate how we dispose of these materials, please don't contribute to the risk.

Please, I'd encourage you to change your disposal method. It may not be a problem doing it this way for a hundred years... right up until the moment it is a problem.
 
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I have the both of the Monster hollowing systems but unfortunately they are no longer made. The one I use the most of the two is the articulated version. Randy made me the receivers for all my different lathes so I could basically use the articulated on every lathe and the captured on the 16" and above. I also have Alan Trout's Pro Rail Hollowing System of which there is absolutely no equal but that I only use on the Powermatic. My normal tools that I used were the John Jordan Hollowers or the Kelton Hollowers. I occasionally still use them once in awhile but when Mike Hunter brought out his 1" and 3/4" boring bars along with the 3 cutter set that goes with them they have been my deep hollowing go to tools. I hate to harp on this but the Hunter carbide tools just work like no others. I also had the original Elbo tool and it was upgraded by Tim Yoder. There is nothing wrong with this system and I did use it and it worked well but my favorite was and still is the Monster. Someone needed a hollowing system and the Elbo wasn't being used a lot so I let it go (had I not had the Monster the Elbow would still be here).
 
Of my 40+ chucks over half are Novas. I have all the major brands of chucks and I have always stated that every brand I have works and does the job. When I go to my cupboard to get a chuck it is not the brand I'm looking for but the jaws that are on the chuck for the job I'm doing. For me not one brand is physically better than the other. I have more Novas not because they are better, they are just a better buy. The Nova jaws fit all of the different Nova chucks except the Nova Titan which used 3 screw jaws. With some of the other brands their different sized chucks use their own size jaws (2" jaws from the smaller chuck will not fit the bigger chuck). A chuck is not just a chuck their are lots of things to consider.
 
Steve Tiedman said:
All "curing" oils create heat during the curing (full polymorization process, liquid molecules converting to solid molecule chains)- linseed, tung, (boiled or raw) and any others that cure into solid. All oil-based varnishes and finishes will have the spontanious combustion warning on the labels. I do not soak the rags in a water container, still an issue after the water dries from the rags. (Funny, they NEVER tell you how, and after how long, to dispose of the oily, watery rags, nor the oil film water. Not down your plumbing system.) Sometimes I spread the rag out on the concrete floor for a few days until the rag is hard, away from anything that can burn. Usually I take the burn process into my own hands and burn them in a large (3 gal or so) steel bucket out in my driveway, watching them until the embers go cold, usually just a few minutes. If burning embers can blow in the wind, make a piece of 1/2" mesh steel screen into a bucket cover to control any blow away embers.
Click to expand...
I think Steve has the safest option, a supervised controlled burn is better than torching your shop or worse. I used to use a metal sweet (Candy?) Tin with a close fitting lid, it wore out and current ones are plastic. So back to digging a hole in the wife's vegetable garden and burning in that, much safer, until she catches me!:(
 
William Rogers said:
Lance, The Vicmarc spigot jaws are not the same as the O’Donnell jaws. With the O’Donnell jaws you have inserts that give a great range and are dovetail. Vicmarc is limited in size.
Click to expand...

Hi Will,
I have never seen the inserts on the O'Donnell's. Major advantage over my VM jaws.

Thanks for the info.
 
Bill Blasic said:
Of my 40+ chucks over half are Novas. I have all the major brands of chucks and I have always stated that every brand I have works and does the job. When I go to my cupboard to get a chuck it is not the brand I'm looking for but the jaws that are on the chuck for the job I'm doing. For me not one brand is physically better than the other. I have more Novas not because they are better, they are just a better buy. The Nova jaws fit all of the different Nova chucks except the Nova Titan which used 3 screw jaws. With some of the other brands their different sized chucks use their own size jaws (2" jaws from the smaller chuck will not fit the bigger chuck). A chuck is not just a chuck their are lots of things to consider.
Click to expand...

So glad you have many more chucks than me. I take comfort in knowing my measly 15 or so are not excessive! :D:D:D
 
Steve Tiedman said:
Tried & True Danish Oil. Pure polymorized linseed oil (made the old fashioned way, by cooking it), no solvents or chemical driers. Food safe, but give it 30 days for a full cure (as you should for any food contact finish).
https://www.triedandtruewoodfinish.com/products/danish-oil/

Or, Tried & True Original Wood Finish, everything the same as above, but it has beeswax in it, too.
https://www.triedandtruewoodfinish.com/products/original-wood-finish/

They have a Varnish Oil as well, it builds a minor surface film after a few coats due to having pine resin in the oil (no beeswax) I wouldn't bother with this one for food contact, I'd go with the two above. All T&T products, a little goes a long way, buy the small/pint cans. Apply light coats, and wipe-wipe-wipe it all off after a few minutes. I use them all on round and flat wood projects, great stuff. And practice safe rag disposal. (I burn my oily paper towels outside in a large steel bucket after application.)

Or, do what they did for centuries and leave it naked. Use it, clean it by hand (no dishwashers), dry it, and repeat the next day.
Click to expand...

Tried and True Original is my go-to finish as well.
 
Randy, lots of options and types of tools out there to consider. I suggest you first pick what size of forms you want to make which will narrow the scope of tools to consider. I started with a DWay handheld tool, good start for small forms. Next I made a DIY captured bar system to go a little deeper and bigger, then I purchased a Simple articulated hollower setup. I later moved to a Roly Munro bar and cutter setup to go even deeper and then to a Clark deep hollowing setup. If you're just getting started then it can be confusing and hard to know the pros and cons of each tool type vs cost, what you want to make, lathe size, etc.

My experience has been that if you're focused on small (6-8 inches) then there are a variety of options. If you want to go bigger then the options get limited and it requires more considerations beyond just the hollowing rig. I do small and large (up to about 30" max currently) and while I still make bowls my primary focus has been on hollow forms for about the past year or so.
 
If you are an impatient type (like me), you can microwave dry. I use the timed defrost setting. Two minutes on one side, two minutes on the other side, then let it rest for a couple hours and repeat until dry. I have a moisture meter but weighing the pieces is the better, more accurate approach.
 
Kent Reisdorph said:
On the first one, the free insert was backordered so it took about 3 weeks. On the second order, I think it was about a week.
Click to expand...
Alan Weinberg said:
Got mine in a week. It’s great as long as I remember that clockwise opens and counter clockwise closes . . . have it dedicated to a set of Cole jaws now.
Click to expand...
Thank you Gentlemen! Good to know.
 
Gerald Lawrence said:
I place it in a bag with chips, open bag every day or two to let ys.out moisture. I weigh every 2 to 3 days . Dump the chips after two weeks and if bag is saturated change bags. I continue this till I get the same weight or near three times.
Click to expand...
Randy, in Florida I would be careful putting wood in a plastic bag unless you want it to spalt. A paper bag works well just be careful to use dry wood chips and to change them regularly. Weighing the piece is a good way to tell when it's dry but in your neck of the woods expect it to take about 6 months (or longer) for it to dry. Welcome to the forums! I'm just down the road from you in Tally.
I know Tallahassee is a bit of a drive for you but our AAW club is very active and we broadcast the meetings via zoom. Our next meet is February 6th. I can send you more info if you like.
 
Charles Cadenhead said:
Randy, in Florida I would be careful putting wood in a plastic bag unless you want it to spalt. A paper bag works well just be careful to use dry wood chips and to change them regularly.
Click to expand...
@Randy Duncan
Bagging with wet chips or in plastic often becomes a mold factory.
Mold discolors the surface and rarely improves wood.

The paper bags make a humidity chamber. Moisture coming off the long grain keeps the endgrain from drying too quickly.
I just use the bags with no chips and swap them for dry bags if the get damp overnight. Damp bags => mold.

Haven’t tried adding dry chips.
 
What lathe do you have and what size hollowed pieces do you envision? Systems like the ones from Steve Sinner, Lyle Jamieson, etc. are great if you have a full-sized lathe and want do larger hollow forms. If you have a midi-lathe or want to do smaller hollow forms, Tim Yoder's Elbo tool might be a good choice. I bought a Harrison Simple Hollower back when I had a 12" midi-lathe, and since my interest is not in doing large hollow forms, I continue to use it with my Powermatic 3520C.
 
GRJensen said:
Lyle Jamieson, etc. are great if you have a full-sized lathe
Click to expand...
Actually the Jamieson system works great on shortbed lathes.
Lyle has back rests for short bed lathes.

I’ve done hollowing demos on jet1221, short bed woodfast, oneway 1224….

I still use the wooden back rest I built before Lyle was marketing backrests.
When I demo on shortbed lathes I use a 2x6 to extend the back rest.
This is actually a little more versatile as the back rest can be angled further than one bolted directly to the lathe.
 
Both of the walnut oils, Mahoney's and the Doctor's are 'heat treated'. Not sure what that means, but the heating process breaks down the proteins that can cause nut allergies. The same is true for walnut oils in the grocery stores. However, the grocery store oils are highly variable in how they dry and 'polymerize'. Some do, and some don't.

As for finishes like WOP, with driers added, they can be food safe. I chatted with one woman at a show and she was very sensitive to the driers, and she said she still reacted to them when they were 'supposed' to be food safe.

robo hippy
 
I agree with the comments about waiting till you are comfortable with tool control and simple hollowing of boxes (watch Ray Key videos) and smaller forms. Start by hollowing through large openings. This allows you to better understand tool presentation. Become familiar with the differences between end grain and face grain hollowing. When you are ready to invest in a full hollowing system, there are many good choices. I like the Trent Bosch system and attended a class at his studio in Colorado that helped enormously. Your choice of bar diameter will depend on how deep you plan to go and how small a hole you would like to hollow through.
 
hockenbery said:
Charles Cadenhead said:
Randy, in Florida I would be careful putting wood in a plastic bag unless you want it to spalt. A paper bag works well just be careful to use dry wood chips and to change them regularly. Weighing the piece is a good way to tell when it's dry but in your neck of the woods expect it to take about 6 months (or longer) for it to dry. Welcome to the forums! I'm just down the road from you in Tally.
I know Tallahassee is a bit of a drive for you but our AAW club is very active and we broadcast the meetings via zoom. Our next meet is February 6th. I can send you more info if you like.
Click to expand...

hockenbery said:
@Randy Duncan
Bagging with wet chips or in plastic often becomes a mold factory.
Mold discolors the surface and rarely improves wood.

The paper bags make a humidity chamber. Moisture coming off the long grain keeps the endgrain from drying too quickly.
I just use the bags with no chips and swap them for dry bags if the get damp overnight. Damp bags => mold.

Haven’t tried adding dry chips.
Click to expand...
Click to expand...
Click to expand...
Ok y'all always bash the wet chips or adding chips. I have only had a problem when I forgot to open bag for over a week. And that is over almost 20 years turning. I always use chips from what I am turning. Open bag daily , weigh and if bag is too wet change bag. BY the way I did not say but ALWAYS in paper. The lesson is use care and you will not have a problem.
 
"Food safe" is a trigger term for turners! You'll find hundreds of opinions. I am a fan of Bob Flexner's book on wood finishing and tend to agree with his statement that all finishes are safe once FULLY cured. Also, consider how most bowls are used. Mine primarily hold chips, nuts, room temp fruits like bananas and apples. We occasionally use the biggest bowls for salads at large family gatherings - dry salads so guests can dish out their portion and add their own salad dressing. In other words, we don't use them for wet things (like cereal) nor do we ever use sharp utensils in them that could scrape off finish. I feel confident that all of these uses are "safe" regardless of finish. That said, I LIKE the look of Mahoney's Walnut Oil on my turnings so that is often my go-to finish. For breadboards, wood spoons, etc, I use a mineral oil / beeswax finish (35g beeswax melted into 8oz food grade mineral oil) that is safe and very easy to refresh.
 
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