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Terry Triplett

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I am a new turner with some questions. I purchased some wood today at Wood Craft , (2) 3" x 3" x 12" blocks. They are covered with wax. What is the correct procedure for using this wood? I don't want it to check or crack when I start using it.
How is the best way to remove the wax?
Do I need to let the wood stabilize before using?

Any words of wisdom will be appreciated.
 

hockenbery

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Most likely it was covered in wax to keep the moisture in.

these size blanks are suitable for shallow bowls.

Two common options are:

1. rough turn a bowl with a wall thickness of an inch, dry it slowly, then when it is dry return it. I put my rough turned bowls inside two a paper grocery bags. I change the bags every day for a week to prevent mold. for the first week the bags will be damp and changing them to dry bags prevents the mold. If mold appear wipe it off with Clorox. I then let the bowl in the bags dry for 2-3 months. Take it out of the bags and let it dry another 3 months. You can test for dry with a moisture meter or weight the bowl. when the weight doesn't change in a two week period it id dry and you can return it.


2. Turn the wet blank to finished thickness 3/8 to 1/4 in wall thickness. Dry in a cardboard box for a few days to a week. for a 1/4 inch thickness close the flaps for two days then open the flaps for 2 days then sand and put finish on. If it is 3/8 thick leave the flaps closed for 4 days and the open the flaps for 3 days. It will warp but that becomes part of the charm. If you turn the opening in the bark side the warp will be sort of wavy.

Green wood needs to be able to move as it drys or it will crack.
even wall thickness and flowing curves allow wood to move.

uneven thickness and right angles restrict movement and increase the chance of cracking

happy turning,
Al
 
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Some strange bowls at 3x3x12! You've got something all over it to make it saleable, not to help you, the buyer. The occlusive coatings they put on some turning material will keep it wet forever. I'd do some scraping of the wax on the sides - not the endgrain - to allow the moisture to escape. You'll have to do it some day. If you're not going to use it in the square anywhere along its length, set it up and spin to maximum round to get the wax off. You'll get some ovalling as the wood dries, but your options for large spindle orientation will be preserved.

If you're going to reduce it in size for say, pen blanks, cut it into lengthwise blanks and leave the ends gooped. Sticker and stack out of the sun and fresh breeze until you get some idea of how the wood will behave, no matter what you do. Some of those exotics will split out of pure perversity. If you see surface checking starting, slosh on some water emulsion sealer from the same Woodcraft.
 
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Hi Terry you can leave the wax on and just turn it away.Green wood turns much easier than dry wood thats why they put the wax on right after cutting it to keep it wet.What are you planning to make? Bowls,Spindles,Tops
 
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Pop-up Toothpick Holder

I plan on making pop-up toothpick holders from them. I down loaded the plans from the Wood-Store. The plans call for a 3" x 3" x 6" blank to start with. The blanks that I have are Asian Figured Satinwood and Jobillo. They both have real interesting grain patterns.
Is there anything special I need to know about turning either of these woods?
 
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Terry - you mention being a new turner - how much have you turned before these or are these going to be your very first turnings?
 

john lucas

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Terry If it's green or wet, which it easily could be if it's covered with wax, the toothpick holders are designed to fit rather snug. If the wood moves at all you will have a problem.
You could rough out the parts and dry them in the microwave. I do that with box blanks occasionally. You have to run quite a few cycles. I use about 15 seconds as a start and see how hot the wood gets. You want it pretty darn warm but not hot. Then let it cool and repeat as many times as necessary until it quits losing weight. Then let it sit for a day or so to pick up the moisture in your environment.
 
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I have only had my lathe and tools for about a month now. Still learning the basics. My lathe is a Delta 46-460 Variable Speed Midi lathe. I have a regular 5 piece set and a miniature set of Pinnacle Cryogenic tools, Apprentice chuck set, drill chuck and a set of Lowe's Forstner bits. I have a list of things about a mile long that I would like to have, but will have to wait for until I have more money! My next big-ticket item will be a Tormek sharpening system.
The tooth-pick holders seemed like a good starting project. I will keep in mind the micro-wave suggestion. Thanks.
 
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Terry If it's green or wet, which it easily could be if it's covered with wax, the toothpick holders are designed to fit rather snug. If the wood moves at all you will have a problem.

Heed this advise I had many heartbreaks when a beautiful lidded box warped and the lid no longer fit and I already had it too thin to fix.Also you might want to re think the Tormek I bought one and only ever use it for flat chisels and planer,jointer blades.You can get a decent 8" bench grinder and wolverine setup and still buy a couple good chisels or videos.Do a search on this forum for sharpening you'll find allot of good info.
 
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