Spalted maple.
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What’s on your lathe?
- Thread starter Rusty Nesmith
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Punky liquid amber unworthy of a photo. Time to break out the super glue.
That’s a beautiful piece of wood Rusty!
Not sure I'd bother with it. Firewood?
odie
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Australian brown Mallee burl.....(click 2x to inspect the details)
-----odie-----
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Steve, Isn't that lathe supposed to be yellow? What have you done to it?
Sweet Cherry crotch 16 x 4ish. Very green and wet. Anchor sealed and put away.
odie
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Nice detail work on the foot, Marc.....
Also.....great crotch......this will be an outstanding bowl!
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Thanks, Odie!
I have high hopes.
Bocote
and the ugly duckling emerges.
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Which one. LolSteve, Isn't that lathe supposed to be yellow? What have you done to it?
Hardly ugly, very nice looking piece. The photos and description made it sound like there wasn't anything good hiding inside. (or not without stabilization/resin) Nice work!
The Blackwood can be very misleading in appearance and I had perhaps an unfair advantage of having in my hands.Hardly ugly, very nice looking piece. The photos and description made it sound like there wasn't anything good hiding inside. (or not without stabilization/resin) Nice work!
odie
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The Australian brown Mallee burl was finished last night, other than it's still on the waste block waiting to have the foot done. The foot will be done in about 2 weeks time. The Danish oil has just been applied in these two photos......I came in from the shop past 1am last night.....which is pretty much normal for me!
The third photo is of my current stash being seasoned and waste blocks applied.....
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Odie - beautiful wood and beautiful artistry.
Hard Maple throw-top, 2.75" x 3" and embellished with alcohol dye.
That's beautiful wood, Odie, and really like the bowl you've carved, especially the detail around the rim.The Australian brown Mallee burl was finished last night, other than it's still on the waste block waiting to have the foot done. The foot will be done in about 2 weeks time. The Danish oil has just been applied in these two photos......I came in from the shop past 1am last night.....which is pretty much normal for me!
The third photo is of my current stash being seasoned and waste blocks applied.....
View attachment 50165 View attachment 50166 View attachment 50167
-----odie-----
I assume you're waiting the two weeks for a reason related to the wood/finish/turning; if so, what will the two weeks allow time for? The Danish oil to penetrate, or ...?
odie
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Howdy Greg.....
I have twelve bowls in the final stages of finishing. They are done two at a time. In order to complete this process, it usually takes a minimum of a couple weeks. The time it takes for the DO to fully harden might depend on the temperature and atmosphere they cure in. Overnight is usually long enough under the best of circumstances, but my two week wait is more from the process of completing twelve bowls in eight steps.
-----odie-----
Exercise work: I drill a hole through the squares, mount them, and work on my gouge and skew skills. I end up with lots of beads for the kids to make necklaces. It's also good excersize for my Middle school students. When there is only one place to look-- the tiny spinning block-- it's easier for the kids to focus on their tool.
Raffan's idea.
Raffan's idea.
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Nothing spectacular. Just playing with multi axis turning. This is my first parallel axis circular turning learning experience. It has plenty of insect tunnels and probably should be relegated to the designer firewood pile.
That said, it will probably end up as a candle holder.
That said, it will probably end up as a candle holder.
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Black Acacia bowl. First turning while wet. I will seal and come back later to finish when it is dry.
Jay
Jay
Not up to everyone else's level but here is my second bowl ever. Grabbed a chunk of ash off of the wood pile to see what I could do. Plus I turned a pen today using Bocote with the grain in both directions.
Ed, nice spin top! Where did you get that point for it? Did you use brass rod and turn it down, or buy one? I made some heavier ones and bought some Delrin, maybe half inch, and turned a point from it. It can be used on wood floors without much trouble.
Jay, as some one who uses a recess almost exclusively, the shoulder on that one is too narrow for my taste, especially if you are going to core, and that blank looks big enough that I would core it.
robo hippy
Jay, as some one who uses a recess almost exclusively, the shoulder on that one is too narrow for my taste, especially if you are going to core, and that blank looks big enough that I would core it.
robo hippy
Phil nice bowl and pen. One little tip with the bowl. When it is done you don’t want anybody to know how it was held on the lathe. It would be easy to turn the mortise into a foot.
I agree with you 100% and I am going to attempt my very first coring with this piece. It is still a work in progress. I started the recess before I started the exterior of the bowl and removal of all of the bark. As I was removing the bark a recess was discovered that required that I change the exterior wall shape. Doing so resulted in the recess shoulder being turned away. Still need to turn more on the exterior to remove the entire defect that does not appear in the photo. When I end up with the finished shape I will correct the recess with an appropriately sized shoulder so that my first coring does not end in disaster. Thanks for looking out for me.
Jay
A rice bowl made from claro walnut; I took part of the foot off later.
Whereas, I'm happy for anybody to know how I held my pieces on the lathe. I understood back when we were screwing blanks to faceplates to hold them on the lathe why we might want to disguise/turn away those irregular screw holes, but not why anyone would want to disguise or remove a nicely designed recess that was used to hold the piece on the lathe. A tenon with jaw marks, perhaps, but not a nicely proportioned and designed recess... :~}
OK, back on topic, the following is a very old redgum fencepost blank that is on my lathe for testing purposes. This wood is hard and tenacious. I'm currently doing some side by side edge durability testing on it of different commonly used gouge steels and metals. I may report on my results another time in another thread.
I prefer an indent over having a foot on a bowl. To each there own. No problem here.
Next project done is an off axis turning I saw online. I think it came out ok. Needs sanding and finish still.
Next project done is an off axis turning I saw online. I think it came out ok. Needs sanding and finish still.
A piece of straight- grain madrone that’s been hanging around as a roughout for far too long…
As an aside - I’m in the same camp as Neil. At least 90% of the bowls I turn are footed. An open form bowl with a beautifully flowing curve from rim to foot appears to float above the surface it’s on - anchored only by the well executed foot. Its an illusion not shared by a footless form. Rant concluded…
As an aside - I’m in the same camp as Neil. At least 90% of the bowls I turn are footed. An open form bowl with a beautifully flowing curve from rim to foot appears to float above the surface it’s on - anchored only by the well executed foot. Its an illusion not shared by a footless form. Rant concluded…
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Sorry I didn’t mean to upset you or anybody else. Just trying to give some helpful advice because I thought you were new.
That is what the felt was for