wood sealers

[Ed Jarvis]

Is Kingspors Green wood sealer a good choice for sealing fresh cut wood?

 

[David Propst]

I really like the PVA emulsion sold by Craft Suppies.

 

[Curt Fuller]

I really like the PVA emulsion sold by Craft Suppies.

That's the only sealer I've used too. It didn't work very well at first when I tried bushing it on. Now I pour it into a shallow cake pan and dip the end grain in it. If I'm sealing bowl blanks I roll the edge in it. When I'm done I just use a cheap funnel and pour what's left back into the jug. I gave up on wasting sealer to seal larger lot ends. They seem to crack no matter what you do. I process my wood into blanks and them seal them.

 

[John K Jordan]

Is Kingspors Green wood sealer a good choice for sealing fresh cut wood?

I wish I had experience with that. Do you know what's in it? From the instruction to not let it freeze, sounds like it might be an emulsification like Anchorseal (wax, water, and surfactant) but it looks darker through the bottle. Maybe it has color added.

For sealing, some use PVA glue and variations, some dip the blank or the ends in hot paraffin, some paint the ends (best to use oil-based, not latex paint). Aluminum paint is supposed to work well too.

I stick to Anchorseal which has worked extremely well for me. (Bought a 55gal drum once, down to the last few gallons).

However, for me Anchorseal is too thin. I process a LOT of green wood into blanks for drying and I've learned to like a thicker coat of wax. Since it has water in it a 2nd coat won't stick well to a dry 1st coat.

I thicken it first: pour about an inch or so into a plastic coffee can and leave the lid off for days. Some of the water evaporates. I stir it some, and apply with a 2" wide cheap throw-away brush from the big box store. This goes on and dries thicker and protects the wood better IMO. I've cut up log sections into 1000s of blanks over the years for drying and have very few failures.

A frame from my bandsaw video, sealing with thickened Anchorseal.


I never clean the brush, just stick it in the can and close the lid. (If the brush handle is too long I'll cut off a bit.) I use the same brush and can for years.

If coating the ends of logs at the sawmill I use a wider brush.

BTW, the late great John Jordan, the famous one who only turned green wood, told me he never sealed the ends of logs. He bought a long log and stored it off the ground out of the sun. When ready to turn one of his hollow forms, he cut about off 6" the end of the log, threw it away, then cut a blank to take to the lathe and turn immediately.

JKJ

 

[Kent Jaffrey]

The Klingspor green wood sealer is just rebottled Anchorseal2 according to its information sheet.

I like to use it on log ends if I can’t process them right away. I prefer pva glue for the rough turned bowls since it is a little cheaper and not waxy.

 

[Larry Copas]

I have a sawmill and use end sealer on my good grade logs. I've used both Klingspor and Anchorseal. They are similar but not the same consistency. Both work well, but either one really needs two coats. I would buy whichever one I could get the best price on.

I have used paraffin wax to seal wood turning blanks along with gunstock blanks. I kept maybe 10 pounds in a old electric roaster that I would fire up to melt the paraffin. The paraffin was the very best.