I'm looking for a face plate to fit the Union Graduate bowl turning lathe. Hoping to find a 6 or 8" RH plate. If you happen to have any Graduate stuff please let me know.
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WTB Face plate 1 1/2 x 6 Union Graduate
- Thread starter David Shumaker
- Start date
If you can't find one Best Wood Tools carries a variety of face plates.
Say they will machine one to suit if they don't carry the size you want.
Might give them a call.
(931) 456-6155 or (931) 788-0429
Say they will machine one to suit if they don't carry the size you want.
Might give them a call.
(931) 456-6155 or (931) 788-0429
Thanks John. I'll give him a call. Getting anything for this machine here in the USA is difficult.
This one has both L/H and R/H threads for inboard and outboard turning
www.beaufortink.co.uk
Unless you are trying to minimise how far the faceplate comes out from the headstock, why not use a direct threaded chuck and use a faceplate ring attached to that. If you don't have one already, a chuck is far more versatile with different jaws
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150mm woodturning lathe faceplate - 1 1/2 inch x 6 tpi Dual L/R thread
Versachuck woodturning lathe faceplates,150mm woodturning lathe faceplate - 1 1/2 inch x 6 tpi Dual L/R thread
www.beaufortink.co.uk
Unless you are trying to minimise how far the faceplate comes out from the headstock, why not use a direct threaded chuck and use a faceplate ring attached to that. If you don't have one already, a chuck is far more versatile with different jaws
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Thanks for your reply Neil. The chuck looks very nice but I have a vintage New Zealand made Nova with a ton of jaws that came with the lathe. I'm after a faceplate just to get the rough wood balanced and a tenon on safely. Unfortunately the tailstock moves a bit even when locked down. Normally I just hold a piece between centers but this flaw makes that difficult. The whole machine is a project. Thanks so much for your help!
Yikes, slipping? I wonder why. (Is this the locking problem discussed in a fairly recent post?)
JKJ
It's not slipping. The live center moves due to wear in the threaded portion of the tailstock. I need to get that replaced or take it to a machinist to have it repaired. A video would explain more but I can't seem to find it on my phone.
Rats, that sounds like a more complicated problem, one I haven't encountered. I've worked on the insides of several tailstocks for people but they were stuck rather than slipping! On one PM3520 the quill was warped for some reason. I can't even imagine how that happened.
Can your old Nova chuck take a screw center? I have faceplates for all my lathes, but rarely use them. Most of my bowls I start out with on a screw Chuck, unless it's a natural edge bowl, then I would use a spur drive. Still it's a good idea to have a faceplate, I hope you can locate one.
I do have a screw center for the chuck. It has always been my practice to use the tail center for extra security when using one. Ultimately the tailstock will need repaired. The faceplate would allow pieces to be turned securely without a tailstock in place. Mr. Jordan told me that Sorby manufactures a plate for the Graduate. That will likely be the way I go. Thanks for your input. Honestly I hadn't considered the screw center.
What does your tailstock need to be repaired? I agree about the screw chuck. I almost never use a screw chuck without the tailstock.
I think a good solution is to bore the existing threads out and rethread it. the tailstock ram simply advances by screwing it into the mating part. The part with the morse taper will need to by reproduced. I'm hoping a good machinist can make this happen and maintain center height. The odd ball spindle could also be reproduced with a common to us woodturners thread as well. Before long the hourly rate at a good machine shop will add up to far more than the cost of the machine.
You probably know this but the morse taper is not difficult to make. I have a set of #2MT reamers, one for rough cutting and one for final smoothing that will work with steel and other metals. Can also turn one on a metal lathe but I think if I did that I'd probably bore it close to finished size then clean it up with the reamers. (The smooth reamer is also perfect for cleaning up the inside of a MT if gunked or deeply scratched/scored.)
JKJ
I've started a conversation with a gentleman about having a plate made as well as the repair work. It is shocking how difficult and expensive it is to get parts from the UK.