Current best option for dust collection while power sanding

[mrGeeze]

I power sand on the lathe.
Generates tons of dust.
Use to have a window and a giant fan.
Worked great.

New shop setup and I need something .
Wondering what systems people use.

 

[Gabriel Hoff]

I use a Jet Vortex Cone dust collector. All of it is piped using 4 inch HVAC duct from Lowe's. The point of use hood is the WoodRiver Dust Collection Arm. I mount it on the wall and position it in front of my headstock. It works really well. If I were to redo it I would purchase on of the Oneida Systems. I just like the American made stuff.

 

[John Walls]

I built a box that sits on top the lathe rails, 4" hose connected on back of box. Does a pretty good job, the plywood was left over from another project so fairly inexpensive for me. I used 2 bolts/nuts/washers through the bottom, goes to a 1x3 that drops below rails, turn, tighten up nuts on top. It stays in place. Only works for projects that don't need tailstock be used.

 

[Monty Ivy]

I use the open door big fan method. I have to turn off the AC unit in the summer or it clogs the cooling fins.

 

[Paul M. Kaplowitz]

Mini Gorilla by Oneida

 

[Gabriel Hoff]

I should also mention that the dust arm floats above the banjo, so it does not interfere with any of the lathe. That was the biggest problem I found when trying to find a good solution to lathe dust collection.

 

[Doug Freeman]

Source collection, ie where the dust originates, is best. There are quite a few hoods and things on the market or diy.

You probably need to invest in a dc of some type. Even a smaller one (I use the ~1-1/2hp 120v HF) will work well. Shop vacs just dont move enough air, but are better than nothing.

Some will also use some type of “shop air cleaner”, several on the market or diy (mine is diy, 1000cfm squirrel cage blower with filters, used for spray painting).

The “ultimate” is a papr system. Not cheap but no dust breathed in. There are several threads in the forum on various types/models. I use one of the 3M Versaflo models.

Its just about impossible to capture ALL the dust, and that where the papr system comes in.

 

[Randy Anderson]

Not an expert but have learned from early dumb setups and attempts. For dust collection volume matters so at least 4" duct work with a vacuum designed for dust collection (not a shop vac), filters clog too fast so a separator of some sort as well as a filter. I use the the type that fits on a 30 gal trash can since I vacuum up a lot of chips as well. I'm able to vent my shop system outside after the separator which has been a huge benefit - no filter needed. Type of capture hood can vary depending on what you turn. A number of good discussions here I think. Some bought, some home made. As Doug says, no matter what you see going into the capture hood you won't capture it all and the stuff it doesn't capture is the worst for you. Some shop air cleaners that hang from the ceiling help a lot. I don't have a papr system but do like the Trend face mask with N100 filters. I could ramble on but I've probably already gone further than you wanted. It's an easy topic to go on and on about.

 

[mrGeeze]

I used the trend papr system in another shop. Works great for the turner but not so great for the shop.
I need to get the dust at the source and move it somewhere else.
One thought is a hood type arrangement connected to a dust collector.
That I could do.

I see a number of homemade hoods as well as some ready to buy ones.
Any thoughts on the commercial ones?
Any designs from the homemade ones?

Also, Randy Anderson mentioned a separator.
I've seen/used the cyclone trash can attachments. That worked well for shavings. Can't see it working so well for dust>
What kind of separator is available for a dust collection system where I'm basically passing sawdust not shavings.

Again, thanks.

 

[Gabriel Hoff]

Here is my setup. The hood does not interfere with the lathe at all. You mentioned the whether a bought or homemade hood works better; I use the WoodRiver brand and it works great. I would agree with Randy because without a separator the filter clogs really fast with fine dust, therefore reducing the suction. I don't have one so I can't say to the performance of it. I probably will get one in the future. Pardon the BOC Box in-progress that is in the way of the photo.

 

[Randy Anderson]

I have the dust deputy as a standalone/dedicated on my table saw and they do work. Keep in mind they reduce the airflow quite a bit so never tried one on a large dust collection setup where max volume airflow really matters. Correct on the trash can lid separators. They do a great job with chips and shavings and some dust but a fair amount passes through. I'm fortunate that my exhaust after the separator is outside. If not I'd have a large canister filter setup after the separator. I've tried the big filter cloth bags that come with some systems. Never again. They leak a LOT and are a mess to empty. I'm actually considering a change to my lathe dust hood to increase the flow. Even with good airflow and what looks like a lot of it going into the hood you can still see fine stuff around the area that escapes.

 

[Doug Freeman]

For DUST, not chips, watch this stumpy nubs video:

View: https://youtu.be/oosMqnORR6k


If you have a large dc this is irrelevant. Its for smaller 1-2 hp or so systems. I just use one hose, moving where needed - no dc ducting.

I have a thien type chip collector, which I still use if I run the planer. But for lathe sanding dust, you want max volume/velocity of the system, and any dust/chip collector will reduce the volume, some more than others, but all reduce it.

A problem I had with the bag at the bottom was I would clean my Wynn filter (with air), knocking the dust into the bag. Fire the dc back up, and a lot of that dust got entrained in the airflow and ended up back in the filter.

Removing the collector increases volume, so more dust gets collected. The bucket at the bottom method allows the dust to stay out of the airflow, and not get pulled back into the airflow and back into the filter. This reduces filter cleaning, since some of the same dust does not have to be cleaned again. It is also much easier to dump the dust - the bag ring stays in place. Its very cheap to try. I didnt and dont want to spend $200 + for the dust deputy sized for a smaller dc.

 

[William Rogers]

I have tried the Thien baffle and other trash can separators. They do a fair job on chips, but little for dust. I converted my 3hp Jet twin DC to a cyclone. I bought the cyclone off Ebay from a guy in NY. It works as well as any name brand cyclone at a fraction of the price. I live in a rural area and vent outside. I do not have filters that need to be cleaned and the DC performance is always the same since there is no back pressure loss due to the filters. I have been using this DC setup for over 5 years and no problems.

 

[Nathan Roper]

I have a souped up harbor freight dust collection set up for my shop. I put that in a few years ago before I had a lathe and now I really need to get a stand set up for my lathe station. The backbone is there but I need the 4" flex duct. I feel like I should maybe have a shroud on a stand or something I can position but I haven't looked into that too much. Maybe some sort of arm that I can position at the lathe then push back to the wall when its not needed. I don't know whats out there for that last couple feet.

 

[Lennart Delin]

You need:
a hood of some sort to capture the dust.
a high capacity dust collector with cyclone and pleated filter and preferably at least 125 mm ducting.



see function https://1drv.ms/v/s!AlM0ms7pb5kolUQ1zSCx6KDq4-v5?e=2VTfpQ

 

[robo hippy]

This is a sanding hood I made a long time ago, and as I say in the video, I can sand all day long and there is no dust up my nose. I do plan to 'new and improve' it some time. This model can't be left on the lathe as I turn. I need a track, and maybe a piece of plywood to lay on the lathe bed as I sand to complete the enclosure. The more surrounded the piece you are sanding is, the less dust there is that can escape into the air.

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AZsVc7qVx7A


robo hippy

 

[Russ Braun]

Here is my setup. The hood does not interfere with the lathe at all. You mentioned the whether a bought or homemade hood works better; I use the WoodRiver brand and it works great. I would agree with Randy because without a separator the filter clogs really fast with fine dust, therefore reducing the suction. I don't have one so I can't say to the performance of it. I probably will get one in the future. Pardon the BOC Box in-progress that is in the way of the photo.
View attachment 48464View attachment 48465

How is that attached to your Robust lathe Gabriel?

 

[Gabriel Hoff]

The mounting flange is attached to the wall. The arm extends out and floats over the lathe.

 

[Larry Mercier]

I should also mention that the dust arm floats above the banjo, so it does not interfere with any of the lathe. That was the biggest problem I found when trying to find a good solution to lathe dust collection.

Will you please post a picture of this arm?

 

[Gabriel Hoff]

Here are the photos from many angles

 

[Neil S]

As I mostly turn outboard nowadays a hood arrangement behind the lathe is not an option.

I now use a bell mouth on the end of 6" flex that I can maneuver close up and in different positions around the piece while I'm sanding.

​

Bell mouths increase the air flow into the ducting in the same way that they do in high-end carburetors and jet engine intakes.

My DE is specced to run a 6" ducting system in accordance with the advice from Bill Pentz. I wouldn't bother with anything less than a 6" system.

I constantly monitor the PM2.5μ/sq.M levels in my workshop with an economy particle counter like this one...

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Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for 9 in 1 Air Quality Monitor Indoor Outdoor PM2.5, PM1.0, PM10, HCHO, Detectoaa at the best online prices at eBay!

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​

... and consistently get figures like the following while sanding. Large platters are the most problematic for spinning off dust and the particle counter helps to adjust the hood position to optimize the capture of the fine dust that is most damaging to the health of our lungs...

​

For reference, here was the reading of the PM levels in the 'clean air' outside of the workshop...

​

 

[Larry Mercier]

Gabriel, Thanks for these pictures. Your dust collection system is very impressive. WOW!

 

[David Souza]

I use a super dust deputy for the separation connected to my Jet DC1100 1 1/2hp collector fitted with a hepa filter. A 5in hose is run over to the lathe, but I have to find a better way to secure the hose, although I have seen some interesting ideas in this thread. I also put together a air cleaner based on Bill Pentz's design https://billpentz.com/woodworking/cyclone/air_cleaner.php. This thing moves so much air I wish I had found his information earlier.
I also constantly monitor the air in my shop, seeing the readings is really enlightening and makes you realize how much dust is actually in the air.

 

[Larry Mercier]

Neil and Dave, your journeys to a cleaner shop/house dwarfs my attempts. I am overwhelmed with the information. Thanks.

 

[David Souza]

I just have a real problem with dust and my sinus. So I had to find a solution that works and at least for me, I can't overstate how helpful the particle counter is. I also always wear a mask when I an turning as well as sanding.

 

[Joe Kaufman]

Made from parts I had laying around. The first picture the hose clamp left of the top knob is over a split slip joint. I haven't adjusted the clamp in over 2 years. It provides enough friction to hold the position you move it to.

Adjusting/repositioning is by one hand on each knob, Losen, move to new position, tighten both knobs. There is about 16" of lateral adjustment.

The black plastic tube is a friction fit in the hood and provides higher air velocity for sanding the interior of large bowls.

 

[Clifton C]

Joe, I like your extension for close in dust collecting... I'll have to poke around and see what I have stashed away... Thanks for the pic.

 

[Larry Mercier]

The first picture the hose clamp left of the top knob is over a split slip joint. I

Joe, will you post pics of the knob/ split slip joint? Your system intrigues and baffles me.

 

[Joe Kaufman]

Split slip joint to allow the opening of the dust hood to twist up and dowm.

 

[Larry Mercier]

Thanks, Joe.

 

[Gerald Lawrence]

One thing no one discusses here is that the flex (ribbed) pipe should be held to a minimum . The ribs cause a disruption of airflow and reduces efficiency. So use as much smooth pipe either metal or plastic as you can . Second item is that turns should be gradual, no 90 degree turns. If you do have to make that turn use a gradual or wide 90 or two 45's joined by a short straight piece.

 

[David Souza]

Bill Pentz has some great information on research into moving dust. See http://billpentz.com/woodworking/cyclone/ducting.php#flex_hose

 

[hughie]

I have a 50mm pool vac hose that I situate in or very near to the sanding, its run off my Jet DC

 

[Mike Novak]

The Bill Pentax info is great, but I always get hung up on the difference between turning vs. flatwork. With flatwork, you are generating a lot of sand sized particles, along with true “dust”. The goal is to balance the system so you have enough velocity to keep the “sand” moving, and enough volume to capture all the dust.

When I’m turning, I don’t make much sand sized particles. I make big shavings and fine dust. I need lots of volume to capture the fine dust, and I’d need hurricane velocity to pull the shavings out of the air into a DC. I might be able to do both with a 20hp collector, but the noise, size, and cost make this prohibitive. I have a 2hp harbor freight unit.

The solution seems to be optimizing the system for volume to catch the true dust, and sweep the chips off the floor. This would mean using the biggest hose possible to the dust hood. So how come I can’t find a lathe dust hood offered with a 5” or 6” port?

 

[Tom Gall]

The solution seems to be optimizing the system for volume to catch the true dust, and sweep the chips off the floor. This would mean using the biggest hose possible to the dust hood. So how come I can’t find a lathe dust hood offered with a 5” or 6” port?

Does your HF unit have 5" or 6" ports? I could be wrong, but probably not. IMO, there is no advantage to having a larger port at the dust hood if there is only 4" ducting from the DC. My old DC (1986) only had one 6" port. So my main ducting is 6" PVC with 4" drops where needed - but my lathe has a 6" drop with a sheet metal HVAC fitting - many sizes & shapes available. You might even find a suitable one at one of the big box stores (HD, Lowe's, etc.)

 

[David Souza]

oneida-air.com has a number of fittings (things here are a bit on the more expensive side)

5 inch Round Steel Dust Collection Ductwork Hood | Oneida Air Systems

24GA steel ducting for dust collection at the source. 5

www.oneida-air.com

Search results for: '5" flange' | Oneida Air Systems

U.S. manufacturer of cyclonic dust collection systems, components, and ductwork for personal, professional, and industrial shops.

www.oneida-air.com

I am sure there are more industrial companies which provide fittings etc. I would think you may want a flange (to terminate the hose) and build some sort of hood to save costs. Like @Tom Gall mentioned an HVAC fitter, there must be a HVAC supplier near your location (i was able to secure a 10" 90 degree elbow at one).

 

[Mike Novak]

The HF DC I have has a 5” port with a removable Y to two 4”

I really like the one David found, but it’s a bit spendy. I’ll see what I can find at big box stores.

 

[robo hippy]

Most of what you will find at the big box stores is intended for heating and cooling systems. It is pretty thin, and if you have a big system, they can collapse. A 5 gallon plastic bucket could be adapted as a funnel, and you can cut your own hole in the bottom and make a dust fitting for it, or even just a 5 or 6 inch hose. Hot melt glue makes a good caulking and/or sealer. Even a cardboard box can work, or you can get fancy and make one out of plywood. Oneway used to have a 'sanding hood' that was pretty fancy, but I didn't bother to even check out the price. You can buy plastic sheet stock in sheets up to 5 by 10 foot. 1/4 inch is pretty thick to bend around without some effort and some thing to form it to. You might even be able to get scraps.

robo hippy

 

[Tom Gall]

Most of what you will find at the big box stores is intended for heating and cooling systems. It is pretty thin, and if you have a big system, they can collapse.

????? Collapse ? ... I don't see how that would ever happen. Mine has been in service since 1986.

 

[Steve Chaplin]

Hyperbolic intake will pull the most air and if you have enough CFM (> 650) a 6 inch pipe. Here is a link to a previous discussion:

Dust collector size

Hi, I am just finishing up a a new shop I'm building on my house! It is a glorious and luxurious 270 feet! I can now have an actual table saw. I'm just sooo happy. In any case, dust collection comes to mind as this shop actually has walls and a roof. I have a few questions. 1) Do people...

www.aawforum.org