Current best option for dust collection while power sanding

[Neil S]

Hyperbolic intake will pull the most air and if you have enough CFM (> 650) a 6 inch pipe. Here is a link to a previous discussion:

Dust collector size

Hi, I am just finishing up a a new shop I'm building on my house! It is a glorious and luxurious 270 feet! I can now have an actual table saw. I'm just sooo happy. In any case, dust collection comes to mind as this shop actually has walls and a roof. I have a few questions. 1) Do people...

www.aawforum.org

Agreed Steve, the elliptical shaped bellmouth is the the most efficient port design for fine dust capture and closeup to the work piece works best, provided that there is adequate air flow as specified by Bill Pentz.

Woodturning is one of the worst culprits in generating and broadcasting fine dust while sanding and the larger the diameter of the piece the greater the risk of that.

To summarise the research finding on bellmouths that Steve referred to...

The best bellmouths are those that are short and fat with the elliptical profile the winner

Since getting a meter for measuring the fine dust (PM2.5μ/m3) levels in my workshop I have abandoned the large dust enclosures that I have used in the past that I found were less effective than a strategically placed bellmouth.

As I only have one lathe I just turned my bellmouth out of wood. If I had more than one lathe or multiple other woodworking machines I might have used Steve's method of making a wooden mould and make multiple bellmouths from PVC ducting with that.

 

[Dave Delo]

I ordered a 4" bellmouth off of Amazon just to see if there was going to be any difference in the fine dust pick-up over what I was currently using. Figured for 20 bucks it was worth a shot. One of the better 20 dollar purchases I've made in this turning vortex. Actually has me thinking of matching up my 5" cyclone port with 5" hose with 5" bellmouth. Not sure how much more in performance that will help. Looks like it would be about 150 bucks to switch out the fitting & hose. Anyway, not perfect with only a 2hp DC but this has incrementally helped.

 

[JeffSmith]

Is this the kind of bellmouth I’m seeing here? Found on Amazon as a velocity stack for a turbo air inlet…seems easy enough to turn, but then it’s $19…

 

[David Wrate]

????? Collapse ? ... I don't see how that would ever happen. Mine has been in service since 1986.

My dust collector can and has collapsed the metal trash can I use for chip collection. If I turn it on without any blast gates open the trash can instantly collapses and the cyclone starts to oil can.

 

[Dave Delo]

Yes Jeff, that's it. Agreed that would be easy to turn but for 20 bucks don't have to glue up a bunch of scraps. Google 3D printed bell mouth fittings for some interesting designs. Click view all images & scroll down to pic of the bellmouth on a small Jet lathe.

Is this the kind of bellmouth I’m seeing here? Found on Amazon as a velocity stack for a turbo air inlet…seems easy enough to turn, but then it’s $19…
View attachment 49351

 

[Joe Penn]

I made and use this. After I built the table and got rid of the stand I just cut the height. It works well for me.

 

[Steve Chaplin]

I ordered a 4" bellmouth off of Amazon just to see if there was going to be any difference in the fine dust pick-up over what I was currently using. Figured for 20 bucks it was worth a shot. One of the better 20 dollar purchases I've made in this turning vortex. Actually has me thinking of matching up my 5" cyclone port with 5" hose with 5" bellmouth. Not sure how much more in performance that will help. Looks like it would be about 150 bucks to switch out the fitting & hose. Anyway, not perfect with only a 2hp DC but this has incrementally helped.

The 5" port will be a substantial improvement having over 50% more flow. The exact number will depend on your piping, static pressure, FPM. A 6" pipe is even better having over twice the cross section area of a 4" pipe.

 

[Russ Braun]

????? Collapse ? ... I don't see how that would ever happen. Mine has been in service since 1986.

When installing my Onieda system, they cautioned against using the thin flexible hoses selling heavy duty flex hose instead. After reusing some of my left over thin hose; I could not understand the concern. If one end is open, WTH? Now if I had a blast gate at the end of the hose, ok….why do that??

 

[DON FRANK]

I totally stole this idea from Reed Gray. I have only had a chance to use it once but it works great. I added LED lighting above and on the end. I have a 3hp dust collector with a 6' pipe coming in the side.

 

[Ken Dambrosio]

I use a Jet Vortex Cone dust collector. All of it is piped using 4 inch HVAC duct from Lowe's. The point of use hood is the WoodRiver Dust Collection Arm. I mount it on the wall and position it in front of my headstock. It works really well. If I were to redo it I would purchase on of the Oneida Systems. I just like the American made stuff.

Just a reminder about static electricity in these high VAC four-inch PVC pipes, I ran copper braided wire throughout my complete piping system and grounded them to the motor housing.

 

[robo hippy]

Nice one Don! I have been trying to figure out a sliding one that I can use and leave in place while turning. Might have to figure one out that can work on my pivoting headstock Vic 240. I had figured out a clear 'flip down' shield for sanding. Your set up will let you sand all day and get no dust at all up your nose.

robo hippy

 

[Tom Gall]

My dust collector can and has collapsed the metal trash can I use for chip collection. If I turn it on without any blast gates open the trash can instantly collapses and the cyclone starts to oil can.

When installing my Onieda system, they cautioned against using the thin flexible hoses selling heavy duty flex hose instead. After reusing some of my left over thin hose; I could not understand the concern. If one end is open, WTH? Now if I had a blast gate at the end of the hose, ok….why do that??

My comment (post) was a response to @robo hippy regarding the HVAC fitting used as a dust hood (collector). NOT the hose or trash can. As you can see in the photo I have a HD 6" flex (oxymoron) hose ... it is so stiff I could barely bend it back in 1986!

 

[Lars Hansen]

@ Dave (#45) A big tanks for sharing the hint about a 3D printed bellmouth. I was struggling to find a good solution. Now my printer is working on it.

 

[Mike Novak]

I did something really crazy with my Laguna 12:16. Set it up a as a test using cardboard, and got a bigger lathe before making it more permanent. It did a great job sucking up the fines, and pulled all the shavings that landed on the bed. Of course, I still had to direct the sanding dust towards the pickup, which’s is between the bed rails.

All I did was put a skirt around the bed, and attached the hose from my HF 2 hp collector.

I’m hoping it will work as well with my new 3520c, but I’m not very optimistic. The space between the ways is much wider, and the spindle is almost twice as far away.

The piece of wood in the picture is to block off where I don’t need airflow.

 

[Mark Jundanian]

Interesting idea, @Mike Novak . I haven't seen that before. It's sorta like a downdraft table. If you were to extend the under bed plenum such that it would also draw air from in front of the ways the performance might be improved, at least for chips. Or have you tried this already?

 

[Mike Novak]

I have not tried drawing from in front of the ways.

When I get around to it, I’m going to try it on the Powermatic

 

[Dave Hulett]

I made and use this. After I built the table and gotView attachment 49352 rid of the stand I just cut the height. It works well for me.

Joe, I like the simple design. Where did you get the bellmouth? it looks like it fits into a 4" fitting and would be perfect for improving my own design.

 

[Joe Penn]

Joe, I like the simple design. Where did you get the bellmouth? it looks like it fits into a 4" fitting and would be perfect for improving my own design.

Thanks, Dave. I like it because it's easy to move out of the way when I don't need it.
My DC is 2.5" and the bellmouth is 2.5". I bought it here: https://www.highlandwoodworking.com/rectangular-nozzle-stay-put-dust-hose.aspx

They do offer a similar 4" version: https://www.highlandwoodworking.com/4.5in-x-9.5in-dust-hood.aspx

Highland is a great place to deal with.

 

[Dave Hulett]

Thanks, Dave. I like it because it's easy to move out of the way when I don't need it.
My DC is 2.5" and the bellmouth is 2.5". I bought it here: https://www.highlandwoodworking.com/rectangular-nozzle-stay-put-dust-hose.aspx

They do offer a similar 4" version: https://www.highlandwoodworking.com/4.5in-x-9.5in-dust-hood.aspx

Highland is a great place to deal with.

thanks, it looks a lot different in the picture. That is exactly what I am already using! But thanks for the quick reply.

 

[Pat Cogdal]

I turn in a small room in a basement. I have a Wen filtration box hanging from the ceiling and HF dust collector in another room with 4" hose and I wear a Peke Safty Powercap papr. The Powercap was the biggest investment but with the beard and the glasses I'm thrilled with the comfort and the protection for my lungs. The Wen and HF control a lot of the dust and I'm not unhappy with them but I still have to give the studio a good wipe down from time to time and change or clean out the outer filter on the Wen every couple of months (should probably do that more).

 

[Larry Mercier]

I built this dust hood to mimic Robo Hippy's version. Originally the hood was longer when I had a long bed lathe. I used the full length of a 55 gallon barrel. When I bought a short bed, I cut several inches from the headstock end of the barrel. As long as I was making alterations, I also flipped the hood end for end so that the work space of the hood now is on the other side of the lathe. I made this change so I can sand sitting down AND so I can sand with my left hand. Because installation involves several steps, I only use the hood if I know the turning project either needs heavy sanding or if I plan to put finish and/or dyes on the project.with the lathe running. In these scenarios, the dust hood is a very good option because the hood, connected to a dust vacuum hose, removes most dust AND the hood contains most of the spray flying off the lathe. It is not pretty but 1 like it. Thanks for sharing, Reed

I can sand all day long and there is no dust up my nose.

 

[Larry Mercier]

I made this hood last year when Robo Hippy shared his efficient hood on you tube. After I bought a short bed lathe , I made a couple of alterations so that the opening now enables me to sit down ( I have a bad back) and to sand with my left hand. It is not pretty but as Robo Hippy claims- he can sand all day and not get a nose full of dust. But, because it requires several setup steps, I only use it if a project requires heavy sanding or if I plan to use dyes or to put finish coats on the project as the lathe turns. The hood greatly reduces the amount of dust and spray from escaping into the work space. To watch Robo Hippy's you tube demo refer to ##16 above. Reed says that a revision of his hood is on his t "to do" list. I look forward to his revisions. Like the rest of my shop, this hood is due for the next update.

 

[Larry Mercier]

i made this hood last year when Robo Hippy shared his efficient hood. After I bought a short bed, I cut several inches from the length of the 55 gallon drum and flipped it end for end so that the opening now enables me to sit down ( I have a bad back) and to sand with my left hand. It is not pretty but as Robo Hippy claims- he can sand all day and not get a nose full. But, because it requires several setup steps, I only use it if a project requires heavy sanding or if I plan to use dyes or to put finish coats on the project as the lathe turns. The hood greatly reduces the amount of dust and spray from escaping into the work space.

 

[robo hippy]

Still trying to figure out what works best. You can buy the sheet stock from plastic supply places, sheets up to 10 by 5 feet, which would be enough for several hoods. The 1/4 inch stuff is pretty thick, and not easy to bend. 3/16 would be easier to work with, as would 1/8 inch thick. I have been thinking about having it on double rails, which I have seen used in some 'sliding cross cut sleds' for table saws. I would need it to be able to extend out a bit for my Vicmark 240 lathe which has the pivoting headstock. I do want one that can stay in place when I turn, in part to help contain chips and one that I can just leave on the lathe rather than having to take it off and put it back on only for sanding....

robo hippy

 

[Larry Mercier]

Still trying to figure out what works best.

robo hippy

..........
I hope you share your revised dust hood with us.

 

[robo hippy]

I will, for sure. It may be a bit though, I have to get some videos out.... and my one show a year that I still do is in July.

robo hippy

 

[Neil S]

Since getting a meter for measuring the fine dust (PM2.5μ/m3) levels in my workshop I have abandoned the large dust enclosures that I have used in the past that I found were less effective than a strategically placed bellmouth.

As I only have one lathe I just turned my bellmouth out of wood. If I had more than one lathe or multiple other woodworking machines I might have used Steve's method of making a wooden mould and make multiple bellmouths from PVC ducting with that.

Lots of interesting dust hoods in this thread but I haven't seen any fine dust (PM2.5μ/m3) level readings to confirm how effective any of them are at capturing the fine dust, which is the important one. I'm indifferent about the ankle deep shavings on the floor waiting to be shovelled up...they don't matter unless you are a retentive, which obviously I'm not!

Here is my humble 6" ducted bell mouth hood that I turned from wood...

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And this is the typical PM2.5μ/m3 reading at head height that I get while sanding with the hood in place (as shown)...

​

That is after an hour or so of sanding. So, I know it works and extremely well.

What readings are you getting with and without your hood in place?