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Bandsaw blade sharpening

R

robo hippy

Joined
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Location
Eugene, OR
Well, I found myself down to one "new" as in unused, blade for my small bandsaw which I use for cutting the blanks into circles. I decided to sharpen it myself. I first did the old "spin it backwards with a diamond card held against the teeth with some brand new Atoma stones. I did not try to cut after that sharpening since I could never tell that it did anything worthwhile. Next, I was looking for some thing to file the gullets with. While searching for my file I use to take the raker teeth down with on my chainsaw, I came across my 3/16 inch file for sharpening the teeth on my chainsaw. Funny thing was that that file fit the gullets perfectly. I may have to try it some more. Yes, it did cut better than before I sharpened, but it didn't cut as well as a brand new blade. So, I am curious about how others sharpen their blades, and how it works for them. I do use the Lennox bimetal 1/2 inch by 3 tpi, and the thicker blades. There was a handy cut in the bandsaw table top for getting a new blade on and off so the file would line up at 90 degrees to the teeth set up.

robo hippy
 
@robo hippy, @John K Jordan shows a method at this link below, using a Dremel disc. And right below his message I posted a video from Richard Raffan where he's touching up a bandsaw blade at a bench grinder.
Post in thread 'Band Saw Horsepower' https://www.aawforum.org/community/threads/band-saw-horsepower.23239/post-282261

In the same discussion thread, post #49 from @Kirk Amidon, he describes using a Dremel chain saw stone bit to sharpen a blade.

More ideas in this thread, including video, and photos of a jig I rigged up to use a diamond hone on the teeth. Speaking of which, that blade I show could use some love again.
S

Post in thread 'How to quickly sharpen bandsaw blades without removing them'

(Warning #1- long text, several photos, have fun! Warning #2- cardiac implant patients be careful, I describe using strong magnets.)

Okay, I made a little jig and it's based on using a 600 grit (mesh) DMT credit card diamond hone. The dimensions of the jig are not critical other than being at least twice the width of the diamond hone. Because I had these really strong, salvaged 1+" magnets (maybe rare earth, they're strong! Check home imp. stores, midwest Menard's stores carry similar), I used them to secure the jig to the saw table, using a forstner bit to within 1/8" of drilling...
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I resharpen my HSS rough out blades 3 tpi and 5 tpi with a dremel and small stones
 
After you grind the gullet its important to go back and do the reverse the blade sharpenening again. This levels all the teeth.
 
I cannot justify this purchase, except that it was reeeeally inexpensive. I doubt that it will work on the bands that we use on our saws, but we will see when I have time to play with it. This is a Wardwell band saw filer. Finding the right files to match the blade geometry will be the first challenge. Who knows, I might be getting lots of visits from club members!
 

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I tried the diamond card turning the blade backwards for a while. It helps but not a lot then I saw a video of Cindy Drozda sharpening one like John K Jordan with a Dremel and a disk. That worked better. Are they like new blades - No, but for most things I cut it's ok. If I'm going to do some re sawing I put a new blade on.
 
I sharpened the 3tpi Lenox blade 4 times before I replaced it yesterday. I think my max was 5 sharpenings. I decide when to replace by the feel of the cut.

I usually get eight blades made at a time at a local shop and hang them from a big plastic coated flat-ended hook from HD so I can reach up and grab a new one above where I stand. Eight blades will usually last me a long time. Hosing off or brushing any dirt from the log bark (or removing a strip of the bark) will make them last even longer.

JKJ
 
Bruce Whitaker said:
I cannot justify this purchase, except that it was reeeeally inexpensive. I doubt that it will work on the bands that we use on our saws, but we will see when I have time to play with it. This is a Wardwell band saw filer. Finding the right files to match the blade geometry will be the first challenge. Who knows, I might be getting lots of visits from club members!
Click to expand...
Are yeah way to expensive, hence the manual method for me
 
Picked this up from someone's YouTube years ago and it helps to get by but again not like new. Use a round diamond bit in Dremel or like. First lift into gullet and then drag down to drop off point and repeat.
 
I’ve tried both the OP methods. Not impressed with the diamond card and backwards rotation, feel like that was just a YouTuber getting views. A chainsaw file on each tooth did improve the cut, though not nearly to new condition. But probably adequate for rough cutting blanks.
 
Diamond card with blade spinning backwards works if you blade isnt too dull. To sharpen the gullet i use a dremel with a chainsaw sharpening bit. The teeth are tilted left and right so you have to follow that with tge dremel. If you only sharpen the gullet the blade cuts really aggressively with chatter marks. Follow that up with rotating the blade backwards and the diamond file to level the teeth and you get a goid cutting blade.
 
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