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Bandsaw blade sharpening

R

robo hippy

Joined
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Eugene, OR
Well, I found myself down to one "new" as in unused, blade for my small bandsaw which I use for cutting the blanks into circles. I decided to sharpen it myself. I first did the old "spin it backwards with a diamond card held against the teeth with some brand new Atoma stones. I did not try to cut after that sharpening since I could never tell that it did anything worthwhile. Next, I was looking for some thing to file the gullets with. While searching for my file I use to take the raker teeth down with on my chainsaw, I came across my 3/16 inch file for sharpening the teeth on my chainsaw. Funny thing was that that file fit the gullets perfectly. I may have to try it some more. Yes, it did cut better than before I sharpened, but it didn't cut as well as a brand new blade. So, I am curious about how others sharpen their blades, and how it works for them. I do use the Lennox bimetal 1/2 inch by 3 tpi, and the thicker blades. There was a handy cut in the bandsaw table top for getting a new blade on and off so the file would line up at 90 degrees to the teeth set up.

robo hippy
 
@robo hippy, @John K Jordan shows a method at this link below, using a Dremel disc. And right below his message I posted a video from Richard Raffan where he's touching up a bandsaw blade at a bench grinder.
Post in thread 'Band Saw Horsepower' https://www.aawforum.org/community/threads/band-saw-horsepower.23239/post-282261

In the same discussion thread, post #49 from @Kirk Amidon, he describes using a Dremel chain saw stone bit to sharpen a blade.

More ideas in this thread, including video, and photos of a jig I rigged up to use a diamond hone on the teeth. Speaking of which, that blade I show could use some love again.
S

Post in thread 'How to quickly sharpen bandsaw blades without removing them'

(Warning #1- long text, several photos, have fun! Warning #2- cardiac implant patients be careful, I describe using strong magnets.)

Okay, I made a little jig and it's based on using a 600 grit (mesh) DMT credit card diamond hone. The dimensions of the jig are not critical other than being at least twice the width of the diamond hone. Because I had these really strong, salvaged 1+" magnets (maybe rare earth, they're strong! Check home imp. stores, midwest Menard's stores carry similar), I used them to secure the jig to the saw table, using a forstner bit to within 1/8" of drilling...
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I resharpen my HSS rough out blades 3 tpi and 5 tpi with a dremel and small stones
 
After you grind the gullet its important to go back and do the reverse the blade sharpenening again. This levels all the teeth.
 
I cannot justify this purchase, except that it was reeeeally inexpensive. I doubt that it will work on the bands that we use on our saws, but we will see when I have time to play with it. This is a Wardwell band saw filer. Finding the right files to match the blade geometry will be the first challenge. Who knows, I might be getting lots of visits from club members!
 

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I tried the diamond card turning the blade backwards for a while. It helps but not a lot then I saw a video of Cindy Drozda sharpening one like John K Jordan with a Dremel and a disk. That worked better. Are they like new blades - No, but for most things I cut it's ok. If I'm going to do some re sawing I put a new blade on.
 
I sharpened the 3tpi Lenox blade 4 times before I replaced it yesterday. I think my max was 5 sharpenings. I decide when to replace by the feel of the cut.

I usually get eight blades made at a time at a local shop and hang them from a big plastic coated flat-ended hook from HD so I can reach up and grab a new one above where I stand. Eight blades will usually last me a long time. Hosing off or brushing any dirt from the log bark (or removing a strip of the bark) will make them last even longer.

JKJ
 
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