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Signing your work

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Just got a Laserpecker LP1 laser engraver. focus point is 8" from the device. I have burned in my signature with my terrible handwriting for years, but this device works great. I've only had it a couple of days and have already engraved my name on bowl bottoms, pens. Experimentation will continue for a while, but I'm like a kid with a new toy!
Dave, are you still liking the LaserPecker? Can you share some photos of the results you've gotten from it? I read somewhere that a person said they were mounting it in the tailstock to do the laser engraving with one of these. Thanks.

Edit: Well, I didn't notice there were more pages before I wrote this. I saw the video you posted. Thanks.

~ Robert W.
 
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Joined
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Bob, Co-incidentally I demo'd the LaserPecker for our club's show and tell yesterday. I've had a lot of fun with it. The dohicky I fabricated to mount it to my banjo allso made it easy to personalize pens l'll try and remember to take some some more pictures tomorrow and post them here. Oh yeah, I love it!
 
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A 45° dental handpiece with a fine pointed burr works really well for me. My handwriting sucks, so I print my signature in red ink on my computer. I do a page of them in different fonts and sizes, so I have some choices. The red ink is easier to follow and see where I've been.

I got 3 handpieces for about $50 on ebay. An assortment of burrs is probably another $10. You also need a regulator a ball valve and of course, an air compressor.
 
Joined
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Best to experiment, but anything with alcohol will blend with the Sharpie and ruin the look of the signature if you sign it first. Since you didn't mention your finish, it's hard to say what you should use.
I sign with an ultra fine sharpie. I let the ink dry for about 20-30 minutes and dab, not rub shellac lightly over the signature. After the signature is dry I shellac the entire foot, let it dry and it then proceed with with a finish of choice.
been working for me for years.
 
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I found a pack of 3 dental handpiece/drills on ebay pretty cheap. ($60ish) I had to get a hose, regulator and ball valve, but I already had a good compressor. My handwriting sucks, so I print out my signature (in red so I can see where I've been) in different fonts and sizes. I cut one out, tape it on, and follow the lines.

IMG_20170718_224329~2.jpg
 
Joined
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Bob, Co-incidentally I demo'd the LaserPecker for our club's show and tell yesterday. I've had a lot of fun with it. The dohicky I fabricated to mount it to my banjo allso made it easy to personalize pens l'll try and remember to take some some more pictures tomorrow and post them here. Oh yeah, I love it!
 

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Joined
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I found a pack of 3 dental handpiece/drills on ebay pretty cheap. ($60ish) I had to get a hose, regulator and ball valve, but I already had a good compressor. My handwriting sucks, so I print out my signature (in red so I can see where I've been) in different fonts and sizes. I cut one out, tape it on, and follow the lines.

View attachment 41382
Now that is one of the best business names ever!:D
 

odie

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-----( UPDATE )-----

Continuing experimenting with the sized 03 Sakura pens...

I think I've come to a point where I can use these Sakura pens for permanent marking of inventory numbers. If the pens are used on bare wood, and left to dry for 24hrs, prior to applying the Danish Oil finish, it's more workable. The Tripoli buff will smear the numbers, but I put an Avery sticker over the numbers for that step. Still, the Tripoli will remove the sticker if pushed too hard. It requires delicate buffing for the White Diamond, and I've been removing the sticker for the Carnauba wax. It appears like the results can be perfect with this plan.

I will not be using the Sakura pens to replace my burned KO logo in the center......(I'm happy with how that presents.)

I'm still resisting the temptation to add the species with the Sakura pens, because IMHO, it gets to the point where I feel it looks too cluttered. (Even though I did have a prior customer call me once, asking for the species of a bowl that was previously sold to her!) My policy is still the K.I.S.S. principle with this!

I'm not sure I like the red color on the light wood, but black looks perfect. The red might be useful on some darker woods, such as Walnut or Bocote. (Does the red look OK to you?)

-----odie-----

1979 maple burl (13).JPG1982 cottonwood burl (13).JPG
 
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Joined
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I like the black better. Walnut is the darkest wood I use, and I still use black. It has be held just right under a light but is readable. I tried red and green, and they didnt seem more readable.

I put the wood species on mine, people always ask, and I want them to be able to look on the bottom years later when someone asks them, or if they have multiples of my work it makes easy to remember what each one is. This is all personal choice - do what you and your customers like.
 
Joined
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That's the way I feel Emiliano. Do master painters sign their work with a stamp. It does take practice to learn to produce a signature that is either legible or easily recognized as your own. I use a Dremel engraver most of the time and a pyro pen other times.
Traditional Japanese master calligraphers and painters do in fact use a stamp. It’s called a chop, and also serves the same purpose that a signature does in the West.
 

odie

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I'll vote with Doug - Black is the way to go.. red ink just looks... tacky..

I don't know if I'd use the word "tacky" to describe the red on light wood, but I do feel is doesn't appeal as well as the black does. At this point, I still have yet to experiment on some finished bowls with dark woods, and I'm going to use some of the red, green, and sepia tone pens to see how they look. (I did try on scrap wood, but I'll use some finished bowls for the final analysis on that.)

-----odie-----
 

odie

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As long as the wood is light, or fairly light colored, the black Sakura pens work well. Unless something better for my purposes comes along, I intend to continue using the Sakura pens on lighter colored woods.

I still haven't solved the issue of what to use on dark woods. (None of the other colored Sakura pens work well on dark woods.)

Since I last posted, I purchased some of the Sakura gel white pens, but these only seem to apply to the surface, and smear badly with all of the Beall 3-step buff wheels. These are supposedly ink based, but act more like paint markers, and might work on a surface that has been 3-step buffed. (I'm still considering that possibility.)

Does anyone know of any other alternatives that would be white, or light colored ink (or something else?), and possibly suitable for the purpose of marking dark colored woods?????

Thanks...

-----odie-----
 
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As long as the wood is light, or fairly light colored, the black Sakura pens work well. Unless something better for my purposes comes along, I intend to continue using the Sakura pens on lighter colored woods.

I still haven't solved the issue of what to use on dark woods. (None of the other colored Sakura pens work well on dark woods.)

Since I last posted, I purchased some of the Sakura gel white pens, but these only seem to apply to the surface, and smear badly with all of the Beall 3-step buff wheels. These are supposedly ink based, but act more like paint markers, and might work on a surface that has been 3-step buffed. (I'm still considering that possibility.)

Does anyone know of any other alternatives that would be white, or light colored ink (or something else?), and possibly suitable for the purpose of marking dark colored woods?????

Thanks...

-----odie-----
So you have proven that the terms GELL & INK do not mix. Perhaps a film finish would cover it and keep it from smearing.
 

odie

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Update.... I have now discontinued using the Sakura pens for marking inventory numbers on my bowls.

I wanted some way of marking the inventory number that was very small. Sharpie fine point and wood-burning is just to large, tacky and tasteless for this purpose.

When everything works right, the Sakura ink looks good, but it's just too finicky.

Other than using colors, there is no way to mark darker woods where it's good and readable. Colors don't look good for this application, IMHO.

The Sakura ink smears when using the Beall buff system. I experimented with using a cover tag, but that means a small outline of the tag is sometimes present.....this looks bad. If the tag is used for the EEE, but not the WD, the outline of the tag can be removed, at the expense of sometimes distorting the numbers. The Carnauba will not remove the outline of the tag.

I tried using the Sakura pen on bare wood, and applying the Danish Oil over the top....hoping the ink would be more permanent. That wasn't the case.

This was a good experiment, and the Sakura pens still might be suitable for other turners, but I'm not willing to change my entire finishing process to suit the needs of using these Sakura pens...

rats!

-----odie-----
 
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Tom Gall

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Update.... I have now discontinued using the Sakura pens for marking inventory numbers on my bowls.

I wanted some way of marking the inventory number that was very small. Sharpie fine point and wood-burning is just to large, tacky and tasteless for this purpose.

When everything works right, the Sakura ink looks good, but it's just too finicky.

Other than using colors, there is no way to mark darker woods where it's good and readable. Colors don't look good for this application, IMHO.

The Sakura ink smears when using the Beall buff system. I experimented with using a cover tag, but that means a small outline of the tag is sometimes present.....this looks bad. If the tag is used for the EEE, but not the WD, the outline of the tag can be removed, at the expense of sometimes distorting the numbers. The Carnauba will not remove the outline of the tag.

This was a good experiment, and the Sakura pens still might be suitable for other turners, but I'm not willing to change my entire finishing process to suit the needs of using these Sakura pens...

rats!

-----odie-----
Odie, I've used the Sharpie "Industrial" Extra-fine point - Super Permanent Ink for several decades. They were only sold in boxes of 20 and I don't know if they are still available. You might have to do a search because they aren't usually offered in places like Staples. I think (in most cases) I prefer them to the Sakura pens. Never had a problem with fading like many others claim. If you can't find them maybe the Sharpie Ultra-fine point pens will work for you, but I don't like them as much as the "Industrial" pens.

Have you tried using metallic pens (i.e. Spectrum noir)? Nice sized tips for your purpose but I can't vouch for how they work with a finish on top - you would have to experiment. They usually come in sets of 3 or 6. Here is a link for the set of six that I have. Look around the site for other options. https://www.dickblick.com/items/spectrum-noir-metallic-twin-tip-markers-precious-metals-set-of-6/

As far as your process - maybe if you don't Beall buff the foot you would have more success with the ink.
I've always done the sanding (to fine grits) - seal coat of finish - do your ink work & let dry - add another coat (or two) of finish - rub with 0000 steel wool or white fiber pad - paste wax & buff with a dry wheel. Try it!
 

odie

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Odie, I've used the Sharpie "Industrial" Extra-fine point - Super Permanent Ink for several decades. They were only sold in boxes of 20 and I don't know if they are still available. You might have to do a search because they aren't usually offered in places like Staples. I think (in most cases) I prefer them to the Sakura pens. Never had a problem with fading like many others claim. If you can't find them maybe the Sharpie Ultra-fine point pens will work for you, but I don't like them as much as the "Industrial" pens.

Have you tried using metallic pens (i.e. Spectrum noir)? Nice sized tips for your purpose but I can't vouch for how they work with a finish on top - you would have to experiment. They usually come in sets of 3 or 6. Here is a link for the set of six that I have. Look around the site for other options. https://www.dickblick.com/items/spectrum-noir-metallic-twin-tip-markers-precious-metals-set-of-6/

As far as your process - maybe if you don't Beall buff the foot you would have more success with the ink.
I've always done the sanding (to fine grits) - seal coat of finish - do your ink work & let dry - add another coat (or two) of finish - rub with 0000 steel wool or white fiber pad - paste wax & buff with a dry wheel. Try it!
Thanks for the head's up, Tom..... :)

I'd prefer to keep buffing the foot, and using a removable tag.....this isn't too bad, but it's not permanent. I'd sort of like to have a permanent solution that works with the Beall buffing.....and, looks good to boot!

If the Sharpie industrial extra fine point super permanent ink isn't available in white or a color that is suitable for dark woods, that probably wouldn't work for my purposes either......Are they available in white?

The Sakura ultra fine point is actually working out pretty good for writing on the removable stickers......so, it's not a total loss"!
2064 goncalo alves (11).JPG
I have experimented with bigger tags where the Sakura pen writing is small enough to also add the species.....but, I've decided these tags are too big for my purposes:
1816 maple burl (13).JPG
Note: In this Maple burl photo above, I originally wrote the inventory number with the Sakura pen, but it faded and distorted during the Beall buffing.

-----odie-----
 
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I have never had a Pigma Micron smear or get buffed off or fade ever. I sign on bare wood and finish over it. On very dark woods I use the Cindy Drozda method of inscribing with a vibrating pen and fill that with a gold or silver paint stick. Sakura ink is archival-quality and does not fade. I don't understand that if you used the ink and finished the area and you buffed it and it faded or disappeared, to me you have buffed off all your finish. I see that they have a Rose color Pigma pen so I will try that on darker wood and see what it looks like.
 
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I'd sort of like to have a permanent solution that works with the Beall buffing.....and, looks good to boot!
If it's just the inventory number, my thought would be a micro-motor with a tiny round burr. The hand set is pen sized, so it should be easy enough to write numbers with. Maybe the vibrating pen Bill mentions would be similar. What I'm thinking is mark in the wood rather than color on the wood.

A simple wood burner is another thought and that would go along with your brand.
 
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I recently started using the Pigma Micron pens because of an earlier thread on this subject. Like Bill, I sign bare sanded wood then apply thinned Poly. Love that it does not smear at all.

I finished a hickory bowl the other day and experimented by applying sanding sealer to the bottom before I remembered to sign it. After sanding the sealer I was happy the archival ink wrote fine on it. The Poly wiped over it no issues.
 
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Thanks Don!-
So ...can you give me some specifics? re: use the Sigma after sanding, but before any finish? How long to allow it to dry before applying finish?
Thanks
T
I put on the ink, then go do something else for an hour or two. You really want to insure that it is completely dry before rubbing it, much less applying finish.
 
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I sand the bottom, sign and wipe the poly on with no waiting time, never smeared to date. Sorry Tim, I'm not good at getting the oil finishes to dry fast enough for me so not something I use.

Black walnut wood will probably be a challenge though Bill mentioned above the Pigma comes in rose color, will have to find some and experiment.

I'm thinking to deal with really dark wood, one would have to inlay a signing piece, sand, sign and finish. I can't make that appealing in my mind so I'm thinking to experiment with sanding bottom, engraving, painting, then final sanding and finishing, as Bill stated Cindy Drozda does. Most of my pieces goes to friends, family and good causes with an occasional sell. Folks want me to sign so I'm finally getting serious about it.
 
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Thanks Don!-
So ...can you give me some specifics? re: use the Sigma after sanding, but before any finish? How long to allow it to dry before applying finish?
Thanks
T
To clarify the ink I use is Pigma Micron Archival and I try to always use on bare wood after sanding and I have not paid any attention to a waiting time. There have been times when I forgot and used it after lacquer in which case it was not as dark or uniform. I have used it under all kinds of film or oil finish and it has never smeared.
 
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I sand the bottom, sign and wipe the poly on with no waiting time, never smeared to date. Sorry Tim, I'm not good at getting the oil finishes to dry fast enough for me so not something I use.

Black walnut wood will probably be a challenge though Bill mentioned above the Pigma comes in rose color, will have to find some and experiment.

I'm thinking to deal with really dark wood, one would have to inlay a signing piece, sand, sign and finish. I can't make that appealing in my mind so I'm thinking to experiment with sanding bottom, engraving, painting, then final sanding and finishing, as Bill stated Cindy Drozda does. Most of my pieces goes to friends, family and good causes with an occasional sell. Folks want me to sign so I'm finally getting serious about it.
Thanks Marvin!
Will wave as I blow thru W. Memphis Friday. Headed for ABQ New Mexico....then parts unknown....:)
 
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Thanks Marvin. I hope to find some W.O.M. ( West of the Missisloppy) woods along the way. Brought some back from Texas last month. These are Catawba (or Catalpa) - Cedar Elm and Sycamore that I made into a big, rimmed pocorn bowl
 

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Joined
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Nice work! Last time I was anywhere close to your neck of the woods, I bought a new diesel at Kernersville. Folks there paid for my plane ticket up there and still saved me thousands, many thousands. One of the last manual transmissions made. I drag my bowl wood home with it. Looks like that's close to 3 hours from you.
 

odie

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One of the last manual transmissions made.

Is that right?

Well, guess I better hang on to my 2004 Dodge Ram w/manual 5-speed!

-----odie-----
IMG_4881.JPG
 
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Is that right?

Well, guess I better hang on to my 2004 Dodge Ram w/manual 5-speed!

-----odie-----
I think 2017 was the last year for the ram manual, it's a good theft deterrent device. When I bought mine, I really wanted the older 5.9 with a manual but couldn't find one with low miles...they get much better fuel economy than the newer ones. However when I go after wood I literally load the wagon and the mpg does not change much.

Tim,
I've turned a ton of pecan lately green and to me it leaves a pleasant smell. Before that was walnut that I like, cut up a bunch of cedar on the band saw that was almost overpowering. Have a big garbage bag of coasters curing with some advice from Don W from the other end of the Mississippi River.
 
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