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What’s on your lathe?

Just walnut hands. ;) Apparently, I also showed him the Bosch "following" system. Phones.
I gave up completely on accessing web sites on phones - drives me insane. I have a hard enough time with text messages with fat fingers on those tiny virtual keyboards! The worst is a doctor's office that texts a link to some big form to fill in before an appointment. I ignore those.

For web sites I use a dual-screen desktop computer in the shop, a laptop in the house, and an iPad pro where convenient, all with keyboards I can operate with fingers. Amazing! After decades of computer programming I can usually type like the wind. (Maybe why my posts are so long. :eek: )

I still mess up but the cause is my brain, not the tiny pretend keyboards.

JKJ
 
Dug out a cherry bowl to second turning today, too hot to cut the green logs😁. This cherry had warped more than any cherry I’ve turned before. I cut a least 2” off the rim to get it level. Since I lost so much height on the bowl I decided to turn what some refer to as a “thumb rim” 😁. Ogee on the outside and undercut on the inside so when picking up your thumb wraps around and under the rim. I just call it an ogee with an undercut rim😁.
Also noticed when I put it on the finish shelf that I have 28 pieces of bowls and hollow forms in various stages of completion. So I need to stop turning and complete the finishing process on those….

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Up before sunrise this morning to pick some blueberries so before the sun hit the shop I cut a new maple log a friend brought me to see what it was going to look like. It has some nice ambrosia and figure, now time for a hollow form.
He called and asked if I wanted a maple log since he thought it was white oak he was cutting, he’s made several mistakes identifying trees. I took the log and sent him a picture of white oak leaves….should be getting another log soon😁.


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I can't remember where I saw it, maybe Wood by Wright, but he had some ambrosia maple on the bench and called it hard maple. I always thought that the ambrosia maple was a soft maple. Any one know? We don't get it here in Oregon. Also, there is almost no hard/sugar maple.

robo hippy
 
I can't remember where I saw it, maybe Wood by Wright, but he had some ambrosia maple on the bench and called it hard maple. I always thought that the ambrosia maple was a soft maple. Any one know? We don't get it here in Oregon. Also, there is almost no hard/sugar maple.

robo hippy

I understand the ambrosia beetles are more commonly found in soft maple (silver maple, red maple) but sometimes get into hard maple. We have both soft and hard maples here but I've personally only had soft ambrosia maple.

JKJ
 
Second time I got the Cole jaws out this week. Cherry with darkly spalted sapwood.
I have a love/hate relationship with mine. It's awesome when/where a jamb chuck doesn't work but it never gives me a true bottom and things always look a little off (to me) when the piece is done.

I've quit using the rubber pieces that came with the jaws and instead slip short lengths of clear plastic tubing over the screws. I think they compress less and maybe allow a little too much slop.

JKJ
 
I bailed on the Cole jaws. The bowl is thin and it didn't feel stable when I put a gouge to it. I went back to a jam chuck.
For future reference - you might want to turn your Cole jaws into a large version of Flat Jaws.
Here's a link to an old post (one of several) about this topic.
Cole jaws to Flat jaws
 
Up before sunrise this morning to pick some blueberries so before the sun hit the shop I cut a new maple log a friend brought me to see what it was going to look like. It has some nice ambrosia and figure, now time for a hollow form.
He called and asked if I wanted a maple log since he thought it was white oak he was cutting, he’s made several mistakes identifying trees. I took the log and sent him a picture of white oak leaves….should be getting another log soon😁.


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Incredible piece of timber!
 
Natural edges have several things which will help but no guarantee.
1. Best to cut the tree while sap is down
2. pick a species which does not move a lot. good: cherry,elm, pecan (maybe). Bad IMHO oak, sycamore,
3. apply CA to the bark edge
4. save those pieces of bark on the floor from rough out and use them to patch in mistakes
Axiom is the bark may not come off today or tomorrow but eventually it will loosen
 
I bailed on the Cole jaws. The bowl is thin and it didn't feel stable when I put a gouge to it. I went back to a jam chuck.

FWIW, I never use the Cole jaws (or a jam chuck) without securely taping the work to the mount. I simply don't trust them.
If interested, this is the tape I use for a lot around the shop, for example to hold a piece in a jam chuck to turn the base with no chance of it coming loose. I tape around the turned jam chuck and around the scroll chuck or Cole jaws. Doesn't leave a residue unless you don't remove it for a week or two! Sticks well to finished or unfinished wood, even damp wood.

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Scotch 2060. Strong paper. I keep a variety of sizes on hand.

This is sold as a "rough surface" painter's tape, good for concrete block, pressure treated wood, etc. Very good adhesive - it's NOT the green painter's tape you find at Home depot.

I use it in the shop to hold things on the lathe, hold wood pieces together securely, as labels on boxes and plastic containers, to hold down protective coverings when I'm making a mess on my workbench. My wife uses it to write labels with a Sharpie for things that go in the fridge, freezer, pantry, laundry, garage (and the tops of pill bottles). She lets me know when her roll is getting low and I bring up a new one from my stash in the shop!

Another good tape is gaffer's tape. Extremely strong cloth tape made for film and video work for gaffers to temporarily hold wires and things in place. Holds well and won't leave a residue or damage sensitive surfaces. I've used it for setting up for a church production to fasten covers to windows, wires to floors so they won't be tripping hazard. Also great to mark positions on the floor where people are supposed to stand!

JKJ
 
Question regarding Natural Edges with bark - are there better species of wood that make better natural edge items?
Oak vs Maple vs Ash etc.......
The basic rules that I have had the most success are
1. live healthy wood.
2. Cut the tree when the sap is not running for my location that means late fall to about the end of February.
3. Completely turn the piece to final size before any drying can happen and you may have to wet it with clean water if you work to slow.
4. Turn as thin as possible which will allow the wood to dry rapidly and not affect the natural bond between the wood and the bark.
There are things that I have tried but do not bother with anymore:
1. CA to strengthen the bark.
2. Patching the bark or trying to glue a piece of bark back in place.
Species that I have found to work best or to avoid"
1. Black cherry if turned very thin as in goblets 101_1426.JPG2. Red oak if sound without any checking around the pith and if turned thin enough the pith can be included.21072Bowl.JPG
3. Walnut with rules similar to the red oak and note that the sap wood has a greater chance of maintaining it's creamy color.
4. Ash the bark seems to have a tendency to crumble.
5. Paper birch the bark usually comes loose because the wood shrinks much more than the bark but I have had success with thin walled goblets at between 1/16 & 1/32" wall thickness or 1.6mm to 0.79mm.
The bottom line is experiment with with what is available in your location and hone your turning skills to eliminate tear out because the thinner you turn the wood the more it will distort which makes the sanding that much more difficult.
 
Thread chasing. I got some 20 tpi chasers and had another go at using them. The first picture is Persian ironwood, the second is pacific crabapple. Both are cross grain. The Persian ironwood was much easier to thread than the crabapple. I should have used CA on the crabapple. IMG_6301.jpegIMG_6302.jpegIMG_6303.jpeg
 
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