What’s on your lathe?

[Odie]

I suspect you would have better results with waiting several weeks or more. Anything that has penetrated is going to take longer to polymerize (particularly after surface polymerization).

I suspect you're right.....

I also suspect it could take much longer than several weeks!

The Watco DO info says it "seals" the wood and hardens. That is the prescription for a longer wait I think.....

Anyway, I have another spalted bowl that I'm going to try using a thinned Titebond III wood glue as a medium instead of the DO.

Stay tuned....

=o=

 

[David Wyke]

Among the most beautiful pieces of Padauk I’ve worked. Will be part of a flower-like sculpture in the end.

View attachment 81247

You’re not going to paint that beautiful piece of wood are you????

 

[Michael Anderson]

You’re not going to paint that beautiful piece of wood are you????

I thought about saying “too bad it’s going to be covered with paint” as a joke. Definitely not painting this beauty. Will do a lot of carving though

 

[Gary Beasley]

Gary, some times it will have a sweet spicy smell, and some times it smells like it came out of a horse stall. I do like the spicy smell. It is related to the bay tree whose leaves are used in cooking.

robo hippy

It didnt have any particular smell. That may be because of the age of the wood, it was pretty dry.

 

[Gary Beasley]

My latest experiment was not particularly successful, but provided some answers to whether applying Danish Oil as a hardener to spalting prior to finish turning is a good answer to the question of how to treat severe spalting...

This Maple burl bowl is heavily spalted and excessively soft in places. After seasoning the roughed bowl, it was brought to round. At this point, I applied a heavy coating of DO, with the hopes that the spalting would become hard enough to turn......(providing sharp tools presented well is a part of the equation). After waiting a few days for the DO to cure, I then attempted the 2nd finish turn. What I found was the DO does indeed harden to a turnable degree......ON THE SURFACE. Below the surface, the DO becomes gummy and smears on the surface as well as severely clogging the sandpaper. I wasted a lot off sandpaper dealing with this, but I eventually did acquire a decent sanded surface.....ready for final finishing.

I'm not sure the drawbacks are worth the effort to attempt hardening the spalted wood with DO.....but, it certainly is doable

=o=

I have much better results from soaking with lacquer and letting it dry for a week or two. The Minwax Wood Hardener does a decent job too but is softer than the lacquer. That I usually apply several times as I turn just to get complete penetration.