Michael Anderson, thank you for your valuable insight. You are correct, my letter was written in answer to Terry Martin’s letter on page 8 of the June 2025 American Woodturner.
Why not just use a 600# wheel?Hi Tim,
I grind on an 80-grit CBN wheel, then hone with the 600-grit diamond hone in contact with both the cutting edge and bevel heel to produce an effectively flat bevel. Your edges are coarser with hollow-ground bevels. Hollow-ground bevels if you're traversing in a straight line demand more clearance which is undesirable. Also because it's serrations are finer, my honed edge will last somewhat longer than yours.
If you hone, you can resharpen several times just by rehoning before having to regrind. This is quicker than having to reset your grinding jig to accommodate a tool change and then regrind.
The bowl gouges I use when hollowing all have convex bevels. I also use a ring tool. I always hollow outboard. When you have done so you'll never want to hollow inboard.
Best wishes, Mike Darlow
Are you turning spindles or bowls? For spindles, 25 to 30 with a skew, for the SRG, mine is at 40. I would use a 40/40 grind on a bowl gouge for a platter, and a 40/40 and a BOB (bottom of bowl) gouge for the transition and across the bottom. I am making some boxes now, and roughed out 2 blanks, 2 or so inch square and 3 inches or so long. I roughed and finished with the skew. I don't turn walnut much any more because it makes me sneeze and itch. I have found peeling cuts to be far faster and more efficient when roughing down spindle blanks.Most of my turning is kiln dried black walnut. What angle would you use?
Maybe I missed it but I didn’t see anything about grind angle differs with wood species/hardness and green vs dry.
Should another element be added into the discussion be considered regarding what is being turned?