Most of my turning is kiln dried black walnut. What angle would you use?
Why not just use a 600# wheel?Hi Tim,
I grind on an 80-grit CBN wheel, then hone with the 600-grit diamond hone in contact with both the cutting edge and bevel heel to produce an effectively flat bevel. Your edges are coarser with hollow-ground bevels. Hollow-ground bevels if you're traversing in a straight line demand more clearance which is undesirable. Also because it's serrations are finer, my honed edge will last somewhat longer than yours.
If you hone, you can resharpen several times just by rehoning before having to regrind. This is quicker than having to reset your grinding jig to accommodate a tool change and then regrind.
The bowl gouges I use when hollowing all have convex bevels. I also use a ring tool. I always hollow outboard. When you have done so you'll never want to hollow inboard.
Best wishes, Mike Darlow
Are you turning spindles or bowls? For spindles, 25 to 30 with a skew, for the SRG, mine is at 40. I would use a 40/40 grind on a bowl gouge for a platter, and a 40/40 and a BOB (bottom of bowl) gouge for the transition and across the bottom. I am making some boxes now, and roughed out 2 blanks, 2 or so inch square and 3 inches or so long. I roughed and finished with the skew. I don't turn walnut much any more because it makes me sneeze and itch. I have found peeling cuts to be far faster and more efficient when roughing down spindle blanks.Most of my turning is kiln dried black walnut. What angle would you use?
Maybe I missed it but I didn’t see anything about grind angle differs with wood species/hardness and green vs dry.
Should another element be added into the discussion be considered regarding what is being turned?
I haven’t even heard about the carbide cutter described by Doug Rasmussen. The rounded tip would make achieving sharp cusps and sharp junctions difficult, if not impossible. And how readily could the tool be manipulated to produce the full vocabulary of possible turned forms?
Robo, I’m so glad to see you say this. I’ve just worked through a batch of walnut from a large tree (about 22” in diameter) that’s been down for a couple of years near me. I’m happy with the results but was sharpening the chainsaw and the gouges like never before. I suppose it’s high mineral content in the wood, but whatever the cause, it was quite a chore. Not so bad to go back to the grinder with a gouge in the shop, but when you’re off in the woods with a saw that is quickly losing performance, that can get demoralizing.For what ever reasons, walnut seems to dull all tools faster than most other woods, from chainsaw to scrapers.
That's a good reason to take multiple sharp chains to the woods and use a grinder in the shop to tune them up.Robo, I’m so glad to see you say this. I’ve just worked through a batch of walnut from a large tree (about 22” in diameter) that’s been down for a couple of years near me. I’m happy with the results but was sharpening the chainsaw and the gouges like never before. I suppose it’s high mineral content in the wood, but whatever the cause, it was quite a chore. Not so bad to go back to the grinder with a gouge in the shop, but when you’re off in the woods with a saw that is quickly losing performance, that can get demoralizing. View attachment 78719