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I know this will be controversial.....but, here goes....

Odie

Panning for Montana gold, with Betsy, the mule!
Joined
Dec 22, 2006
Messages
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Location
Missoula, MT
I feel very lucky to have learned basic woodturning skills back in the early 1980's. Back then, there was no such thing as a swept back grind.....or, the Ellsworth grind, among other swept back grind shapes attributed to other turners. Back then, all new turners were taught the "traditional" gouge grind. The traditional gouge grind has probably been around for 100 years, and it's something you rarely see these days.....simply because the momentum of the woodturning herd has all but made it extinct.

In my opinion, the traditional grind (if shaped well) is more versatile and can produce a finer cut in difficult places, than any of the swept back grinds.

For those who are unaware of the traditional gouge grind, it's produced using the "V-arm" of the Wolverine jig. The Wolverine makes it easy, but I suppose other turners have made their own simple jigs to produce this grind. It's not complicated, and because of that, it's also very easy to learn.

I suspect there will be a great pushback from the herd here, but this is because the traditional grind is seldom seen anymore.....virtually nobody is teaching it.....and very few turners are using it. Awareness of the traditional grind these days is practically non-existent, except for a few turners who have been turning for close to 40, or more years.

Just to be clear here, I first began using the swept back grind about 35 years ago, during a time when most turners were first learning this new approach to gouge grind shapes. I eventually was using the swept back grind exclusively. Back then, I transitioned from the traditional grind to the swept back grind......prior to transitioning back to the traditional grind about 20 years ago. When I transitioned back to the traditional grind, it was after I had been turning for a couple decades.....so, at that time, I had some experience under my belt to evaluate the usefulness of the various grinds that were available and being taught.

Right now, I don't think I have a single gouge that still has a swept back shape.....and, that Vari-grind jig for the Wolverine is gathering dust! :)

=o=
 
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Well, I guess it depends not only when but also where you started. I started turning in the early sixties in Sweden. All gouges were what the British call continental gouges i.e. forged from a flat steel and had a moderate swept back grind. There was no division in bowl gouges and spindle gouges. Looks very much like the spindle gouges I use today. For bowl gouges I today use the now common, milled from round HSS with a swept back grind.

20260223_134024.jpg
 
I feel very lucky to have learned basic woodturning skills back in the early 1980's. Back then, there was no such thing as a swept back grind.....or, the Ellsworth grind, among other swept back grind shapes attributed to other turners. Back then, all new turners were taught the "traditional" gouge grind. The traditional gouge grind has probably been around for 100 years, and it's something you rarely see these days.....simply because the momentum of the woodturning herd has all but made it extinct.

In my opinion, the traditional grind (if shaped well) is a more versatile and can produce a finer cut in difficult places, than any of the swept back grinds.

For those who are unaware of the traditional gouge grind, it's produced using the "V-arm" of the Wolverine jig. The Wolverine makes it easy, but I suppose other turners have made their own simple jigs to produce this grind. It's not complicated, and because of that, it's also very easy to learn.

I suspect there will be a great pushback from the herd here, but this is because the traditional grind is seldom seen anymore.....virtually nobody is teaching it.....and very few turners are using it. Awareness of the traditional grind these days is practically non-existent, except for a few turners who have been turning for close to 40, or more years.

Just to be clear here, I first began using the swept back grind about 35 years ago, during a time when most turners were first learning this new approach to gouge grind shapes. I eventually was using the swept back grind exclusively. Back then, I transitioned from the traditional grind to the swept back grind......prior to transitioning back to the traditional grind about 20 years ago. When I transitioned back the traditional grind, it was after I had been turning for a couple decades.....so, at that time, I had some experience under my belt to evaluate the usefulness of the various grinds that were available and being taught.

Right now, I don't think I have a single gouge that still has a swept back shape.....and, that Vari-grind jig for the Wolverine is gathering dust! :)

=o=
Here's the thing I wonder... any really decent videos on actually doing and using that grind? Most every turner and YouTube video I've watched uses vari-grind jig for sharpening and swears by the swept back grind, but to my recollection I have yet to watch a decent youtube on that traditional grind and its use... so now I wonder if that might be "my" solution , since I'm basically self taught from watching turning videos on Youtube, I don't think I have ever even tried the traditional grind....
 
Here's the thing I wonder... any really decent videos on actually doing and using that grind? Most every turner and YouTube video I've watched uses vari-grind jig for sharpening and swears by the swept back grind, but to my recollection I have yet to watch a decent youtube on that traditional grind and its use... so now I wonder if that might be "my" solution , since I'm basically self taught from watching turning videos on Youtube, I don't think I have ever even tried the traditional grind....

I am not aware of any current instruction on the traditional grind. In my thinking, the transition from traditional grind to sweptback grind has been universal and complete. This transition occurred during a time in the early 90's when most turners didn't have computers yet, and I remember the furious transition where most all woodturners considered the new swept back grind an industry wide innovation.....Including me! When I made the transition, I had been turning for 10 years, or so, and as I look back now, I consider myself not a particularly good turner back then.....even though I thought I was a better turner then, than I do now with my hindsight.

I remember sometime about 20 years ago, I had seen someone's compilation of all the different grinds with photos right here on the AAW forums. It was a well-done reference.......but the traditional grind was completely absent! I commented on this at the time, but the woodturning community was on a fast-track with the thinking that the only grinds that had any value are the swept back grinds.

Howdy Odie, Interesting thoughts on the type of grind. I am wondering if you could take a photo or three of the "traditional grind" to share with us?

I believe I have some photos comparing the two types of grinds.....I'll look, but I have many hundreds of woodturning photos that are not very well organized----->Unfortunately, it's one of those "round tuits" that I've never had! :(

=o=
 
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Well, I guess it depends not only when but also where you started. I started turning in the early sixties in Sweden. All gouges were what the British call continental gouges i.e. forged from a flat steel and had a moderate swept back grind. There was no division in bowl gouges and spindle gouges. Looks very much like the spindle gouges I use today. For bowl gouges I today use the now common, milled from round HSS with a swept back grind.

View attachment 85497

True, Lennart.....

As far as that goes, I consider there to be two distinctly different woodturning communities......the USA community, and the international community. Even at that, you might want to break that down into more than one international community, but I do consider the USA community to be a self-contained entity.

=o=
 
I feel very lucky to have learned basic woodturning skills back in the early 1980's. Back then, there was no such thing as a swept back grind.....or, the Ellsworth grind, among other swept back grind shapes attributed to other turners. Back then, all new turners were taught the "traditional" gouge grind. The traditional gouge grind has probably been around for 100 years, and it's something you rarely see these days.....simply because the momentum of the woodturning herd has all but made it extinct.

In my opinion, the traditional grind (if shaped well) is more versatile and can produce a finer cut in difficult places, than any of the swept back grinds.

For those who are unaware of the traditional gouge grind, it's produced using the "V-arm" of the Wolverine jig. The Wolverine makes it easy, but I suppose other turners have made their own simple jigs to produce this grind. It's not complicated, and because of that, it's also very easy to learn.

I suspect there will be a great pushback from the herd here, but this is because the traditional grind is seldom seen anymore.....virtually nobody is teaching it.....and very few turners are using it. Awareness of the traditional grind these days is practically non-existent, except for a few turners who have been turning for close to 40, or more years.

Just to be clear here, I first began using the swept back grind about 35 years ago, during a time when most turners were first learning this new approach to gouge grind shapes. I eventually was using the swept back grind exclusively. Back then, I transitioned from the traditional grind to the swept back grind......prior to transitioning back to the traditional grind about 20 years ago. When I transitioned back to the traditional grind, it was after I had been turning for a couple decades.....so, at that time, I had some experience under my belt to evaluate the usefulness of the various grinds that were available and being taught.

Right now, I don't think I have a single gouge that still has a swept back shape.....and, that Vari-grind jig for the Wolverine is gathering dust! :)

=o=
For myself,
Being a newb and all, that old school grind tends to be easier to control really, that appears to be what a few well known turners use for bowl interiors too, that was all an old friend who was kinda my mentor in a lot of ways in carpentry ever used, scrapers a couple gouges and a parting tool were his arsenal, all ground freehand on a regular old bench grinder with a light touch, nothin fancy but man he could turn out some cool pieces.
 
When some one mentions the "traditional" grind, I think of one where the bevel runs straight across the bottom of the gouge, pretty much no sweep to the bevel at all. Other than that, I don't know. I can't think of how that could be done with the Wolverine set up. As for swept back gouges, not sure how far back they go, but a long time. I haven't used one since I learned platform sharpening, and that may go back 15 years or so. The swept back design is kind of a jack of all trades, but also, a master of none. I use the 40/40 and a variety of BOB tools.

robo hippy
 
I think its maybe horses for courses. I have one gouge square ground as Reed has mentioned roughly at 55' for internal open bowls. I run 40 and 45 on my gouges, but predominately 40.

But I would think it goes back to a time when milling machines either were not around or sufficently designed. A time of the blacksmith.
Heres a previous thread https://www.woodworkforums.com/archive/index.php/t-238520.html
 
When some one mentions the "traditional" grind, I think of one where the bevel runs straight across the bottom of the gouge, pretty much no sweep to the bevel at all. Other than that, I don't know. I can't think of how that could be done with the Wolverine set up. As for swept back gouges, not sure how far back they go, but a long time. I haven't used one since I learned platform sharpening, and that may go back 15 years or so. The swept back design is kind of a jack of all trades, but also, a master of none. I use the 40/40 and a variety of BOB tools.

robo hippy

Howdy Robo.....

What's a "BOB" tool? I doubt there is any popular grind that I don't have some basic knowledge about, but when people use abbreviations, it sometimes doesn't help understanding just what is being discussed. In posts, I normally try to use the full term at least once, so that when the abbreviation is used, the reader has a reference point. Thanks.

I think you have a pretty good idea of what a traditional gouge grind is. What's important, is to get a very slight convex shape to the wings.....not straight across. And yes, it's mostly done on the Vari-grind jig these days, but it's such a simple setup, that it's easily done with a very rudimental homemade jig.

Thanks for commenting....

=o=
 
.

What's a "BOB" tool?

=o=
As I understand it , it is ground at around like a 60 to 70 degrees or so bevel in a grind similar to a SRG is done so it has fairly steep non-swept sides that allow for the cut through the transition, but I also think it is basically a traditional grind since if I understand correctly it is simply ground by rotating the tool in the V-arm - exactly as one might do with a SRG .. So I guess, for me, since my handles and tools are all different lengths from cutting tip, I'd have to re-adjust the one way V-arm every single time for each gouge I work with .. I think thats the beauty of the vari grind jig since you can often just stick with one nose protrusion length and the overall length of the tool does not matter.. but by design the vari grind doesn't really give a traditional grind does it?
 
Turners gravitate to the gouges and grinds that meet their needs and skill level
As mentioned above many turners use a Bottom feeder with a traditional grind
I teach and demo using a traditional grind on a 3/8 diameter bowl gouge for hollowing spheres

Most professional turners moved to the side ground bowl gouge in the mid 1990s because it makes cuts that cannot be made with a traditional bowl gouge.

A few Cuts that the side ground can make
Rough a 3/4 -1” wide shaving with a 5/8 bar gouge
pull cut using the wing - near skew quality surface.
flute up shear cut with the leading edge of the wing
shear scrape with the wing edge
scraping cut with the wing

Professional turners could make bowls faster with a better surface using the cuts above.

I was fortunate to get a class with Liam O’Neil in 1994. Liam had invented the side grind. He found converts in John Jordan, David Ellsworth, and many others. David modified the grind to his signature grind.

In our class Liam mounted a warped dried 12” diameter cherry bowl on a faceplate. He then cut the outside smooth in one pass using a pull cut from foot to rim then shear scraped it. A useful technique and tool for a professional bowl turner.

Trent Bosch uses finishing gouge for bowls with a traditional grind on the right side and an Ellsworth grind on the left side.
The traditional grind does a flute up cut on the outside of the bowl the leading edge makes a near vertical shear angle.
The Ellsworth side does the flute up cut on the inside of a bowl with a very high shear angle.
 
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Odie, here is my view. I know about 90% of turners use the Wolverine jig and are happy with it. You commented you get the traditional grind using it, however I don’t think the Wolverine really produces the tradition grind of 100 years ago. To me replicating the Wolverine by hand would not be natural. I would call the grind a “modified” traditional grind, close, but no cigar! I use the Hannes Vector Jig and my opinion it it produces a much closer representation of the traditional grind of 100 years ago. It would be a much better hand movement replication how the Vector Jig grinds,
 
Howdy Odie, Interesting thoughts on the type of grind. I am wondering if you could take a photo or three of the "traditional grind" to share with us?

I looked and could not find the photos I was looking for, so I took some new photos.

On the traditional grind, the length of the bevel can vary according to the current need, and it's extremely easy to do minor adjustments. I normally hone the very tip of the cutting edge, and if you look closely, you can see that the bottom gouge has been re-honed several times. I don't need to return to the grinder for maybe 4-5 times that I re-sharpen....just a few strokes of a flat diamond hone for the outside, and a cone shaped diamond hone removes the burr in the flute. This quickly brings the edge back to life.

Here are a few of my current gouges with traditional grinds:
20260223_185124.jpg

The traditional grind uses the Wolverine V-arm, and is rotated longitudinally to shape the wings and nose.
It's done like this:
20260224_072923.jpg

Setups are much much easier, because you don't need any of those specialized tools to find the proper angle....or that cumbersome Vari-grind jig. All you should be interested in, is matching the current existing bevel. Note: I don't even know for sure what angle the bevel is, because knowing that isn't necessary at all! All I do is use a white backer and look from the side. You can easily see how the bevel matches the wheel.....and, you can do it perfectly in seconds! In this photo, you can see a little gap between the wheel and the gouge tip. This is what you want if your intent is to create a slightly longer bevel. You can create a slightly shorter bevel for BOB applications very easily by just allowing a little gap at the heel of the bevel. (You can also see along the edge where I've re-honed this gouge several times since it was last trued up on the grinder. This one is about ready to regrind again.)
20260224_073034.jpg

Odie, here is my view. I know about 90% of turners use the Wolverine jig and are happy with it. You commented you get the traditional grind using it, however I don’t think the Wolverine really produces the tradition grind of 100 years ago. To me replicating the Wolverine by hand would not be natural. I would call the grind a “modified” traditional grind, close, but no cigar! I use the Hannes Vector Jig and my opinion it it produces a much closer representation of the traditional grind of 100 years ago. It would be a much better hand movement replication how the Vector Jig grinds,

Hi Bill......:)

Who cares!

You can refer to it as the "odie grind" if you'd like. :)

=o=
 
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Hi Bill......:)

Who cares!

You can refer to it as the "odie grind" if you'd like. :)

=o=
Hi Odie

I’m sure someone cares if not you!🫠

Just making a point that IMO the Vector Jig produces the best grind for me and your grind is not the only grind that is the best. I used the
wolverine for many years and IMO the Vector Jig is better IMO.
 
Hi Odie

I’m sure someone cares if not you!🫠

Just making a point that IMO the Vector Jig produces the best grind for me and your grind is not the only grind that is the best. I used the
wolverine for many years and IMO the Vector Jig is better IMO.

Of course, Bill.......

That's why I put this thread in the "getting started" forum.

I know very well that seasoned turners like you are already set in their ways, and difficult to influence.

The newbies are much more open minded about things that are not a part of "herd think", and so firmly established.

Even so, I think there might be a few seasoned turners who will consider trying the traditional grind.


=o=
 
Well, some one beat me to it.... Bottom of Bowl. I thought when I coined that phrase that "bottom feeder" was a signature tool. I grind mine at the 70 degree setting on my grinder platform, which is actually 65 degrees, and the nose is ) shapes, so minimal sweep. Thinking about it, the "traditional grind is more of a roll with no sweeping of the handle to the sides. I have never tried it. I do like a bit of sweep in all of my tools. My favorite BOB tool is a spindle detail gouge. The advantage to it with the minimal sweep is that when you roll it on its side, you get a very high shear angle for cleaner cuts. I frequently have mine at 60 or more degrees.

robo hippy
 
I have always perceived the traditional grind as much more straight cut off. The ones Odie shows I would have thought of more as fingernail grounds, so I tried to Google descriptions. It turned out that the descriptions were diverging as much as our preferences. And then there is the flute descriptions. One called a half ellips for a parabola...

Anyway, this has a parabolic flute and the grind I prefer, about 50-55° at the tip. I think of it as swept back or Irish grind. What would you call the grind?

K3_04664LRs.jpg
 
Howdy Robo.....

What's a "BOB" tool? I doubt there is any popular grind that I don't have some basic knowledge about, but when people use abbreviations, it sometimes doesn't help understanding just what is being discussed. In posts, I normally try to use the full term at least once, so that when the abbreviation is used, the reader has a reference point. Thanks.

I think you have a pretty good idea of what a traditional gouge grind is. What's important, is to get a very slight convex shape to the wings.....not straight across. And yes, it's mostly done on the Vari-grind jig these days, but it's such a simple setup, that it's easily done with a very rudimental homemade jig.

Thanks for commenting....

=o=
The "BOB" comment is appreciated it has annoyed me when people use these initials.
Back in the 1980s when I was starting to do more than just spindle turning I went on a work trip to Coventry in the midlands and purchased my first Sorby HSS gouge ground from a 7/8th inch round, with a traditional grind. By the late 1980s I had purchased more HSS tools and got rid of the carbon steel tools. I had developed my own method to free hand grind what I thought of as the traditional grind and I would also grind off the heal. In 2009 we had Alan Lacer up to the north woods for demo and that is when I bought my Wolverine jig. The sweepback grinds were beginning to be popular but when I tried someone else's I didn't like it so I never ground any of my own tools that way. In about 2010 we had Mike Mahony and demoed his method using the platform to grind the traditional grind and that is what I still use and all of the other accessories for the Wolverine system are gathering dust. Mike Mahony also demoed his bottom feeder grind, which seams to have evolved to a "BOB". The term 40/40 grind seams like just a new name for a traditional grind.
 
I know very well that seasoned turners like you are already set in their ways, and difficult to influence.
"set in their ways, and difficult to influence". I don’t disagree, however I know of another turner who may even more set in their ways and more difficult to influence.😲

Post 16 cleared some things up. My impression was you were using the Vari-grind jig to get the traditional grind. I was wondering how the Vari-grind replicated the traditional grind. The Vector jig has a center point mainly used for spindle gouges, but seems to me would be similar to the way you are grinding. I may try and see what happens. However very happy with the grind I am getting with using the jig normally.
 
"set in their ways, and difficult to influence". I don’t disagree, however I know of another turner who may even more set in their ways and more difficult to influence.😲

Post 16 cleared some things up. My impression was you were using the Vari-grind jig to get the traditional grind. I was wondering how the Vari-grind replicated the traditional grind. The Vector jig has a center point mainly used for spindle gouges, but seems to me would be similar to the way you are grinding. I may try and see what happens. However very happy with the grind I am getting with using the jig normally.

Yes, Bill......you are correct that I am very set in my ways, just as many other turners who have been turning for many decades. Exposing myself to alternate and new methods is one of the principal reasons why I've been hanging around this AAW forum for the past two decades....so, I can be aware of the evolution in this craft. In this particular case, I mentioned previously that I used the traditional grind, prior to using the Vari-grind jig to craft sweptback gouge grinds exclusively for more than a decade. My previous use and return to the TG gave me some experience in evaluating these two types of gouge grinds.

Here's a little refresher for you:
Just to be clear here, I first began using the swept back grind about 35 years ago, during a time when most turners were first learning this new approach to gouge grind shapes. I eventually was using the swept back grind exclusively. Back then, I transitioned from the traditional grind to the swept back grind......prior to transitioning back to the traditional grind about 20 years ago. When I transitioned back to the traditional grind, it was after I had been turning for a couple decades.....so, at that time, I had some experience under my belt to evaluate the usefulness of the various grinds that were available and being taught.

As with any opinions, I'm giving my appraisal of the value of the traditional grind, and hopefully this all-but-forgotten original method of grinding gouges will be considered by a few other turners. This prior-established method definitely needs a look-see and should be returned to the list of grinds that one could use for turning. I acknowledge that not everyone will want to use it. That's perfectly OK with me. All I'm doing here is to bring the TG back to some level of awareness within the turning community.

=o=
 
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@Odie, can you measure the angle of your grind. I use three different grinds for various tasks and yours looks really close to one of mine.

Hello Vincent.....

The angle will vary, depending on how long one wants the bevel to be. As I stated before, knowing the exact angle isn't as important as matching the grind you have to your setup.....and, whether you want to extend it, or reduce it.

I'll say this, though: The longer the bevel, the wing and tip of the grind will be used more, while the shorter bevel generally will be useful for cuts along the sides of the wings.

=o=
 
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With platform sharpening, I consider it to compose of 3 actions. One is rolling side to side. This is how you would sharpen a spindle roughing gouge. Second is sweeping to the sides. With the 40/40 grind you sweep to 40 degrees. With a swept back/Irish grind, you sweep to 60 or more degrees. The third action is a combination of one and two, so sweep and rolling at the same time which is done to sharpen the 40/40 grind and the swept back grinds. With what I think of as the "traditional" grind there is no sweeping to the sides. As I said above, I thought "bottom feeder" was a signature tool. There are many variations and I didn't want to use some one else's signature name.

robo hippy
 
I looked and could not find the photos I was looking for, so I took some new photos.

On the traditional grind, the length of the bevel can vary according to the current need, and it's extremely easy to do minor adjustments. I normally hone the very tip of the cutting edge, and if you look closely, you can see that the bottom gouge has been re-honed several times. I don't need to return to the grinder for maybe 4-5 times that I re-sharpen....just a few strokes of a flat diamond hone for the outside, and a cone shaped diamond hone removes the burr in the flute. This quickly brings the edge back to life.

Here are a few of my current gouges with traditional grinds:
View attachment 85538

The traditional grind uses the Wolverine V-arm, and is rotated longitudinally to shape the wings and nose.
It's done like this:
View attachment 85539

Setups are much much easier, because you don't need any of those specialized tools to find the proper angle....or that cumbersome Vari-grind jig. All you should be interested in, is matching the current existing bevel. Note: I don't even know for sure what angle the bevel is, because knowing that isn't necessary at all! All I do is use a white backer and look from the side. You can easily see how the bevel matches the wheel.....and, you can do it perfectly in seconds! In this photo, you can see a little gap between the wheel and the gouge tip. This is what you want if your intent is to create a slightly longer bevel. You can create a slightly shorter bevel for BOB applications very easily by just allowing a little gap at the heel of the bevel. (You can also see along the edge where I've re-honed this gouge several times since it was last trued up on the grinder. This one is about ready to regrind again.)
View attachment 85540



Hi Bill......:)

Who cares!

You can refer to it as the "odie grind" if you'd like. :)

=o=
This grind can also be accomplished on the platform. That is the "traditional" way that I few turners have shown me over the years. What you are doing is what's done the SRG, just with a bowl gouge instead.

Each turner has their own preferred way, usually inherited by whoever taught them! :)
 
I like to think I can claim credit for the swept back wings on bowl gouges. When I began turning in 1970 I had traditional Sorby flared Long and Strong bowl square-ground gouges. I kept catching the left wing when hollowing, so removed it. Then I soon discovered that when turning bowls the swept back wing was ideal for pull cuts that removed wood far faster than the traditional push cuts. Initially I had gouges with a sweptback left wing and square right wing, but these morphed into my asymmetric grind which I showed to Ray Key in around 1973 and which David Ellsworth, Michael O'Donnell, and Liam O'Neill saw Ray and myself demonstrate around 1980-81 when the woodturning revival was beginning to take off. The Ellsworth, O'Donnell, and Irish grinds became popular a few years later thanks to the proliferating specialist woodturning supply companies and the development of grinding jigs. Here's a link to how I use and grind an asymetric bowl gouge
View: https://youtu.be/cnNBBV19YLw
, and you'll see them in most of my bowl videos.
 
@Odie I used to use swept back grinds a lot, however over the last year, I switched back to a 40/40 grind, and it has been superior in giving me cleaner cuts, and far, far less tearout on the outside of bowls in particular. For the inside of bowls, I use the 40/40 in the upper reaches, and a bottom bowl gouge in the lower reaches.

I'm curious...is a 40/40 grind considered a more traditional grind, or is there a difference between the traditional grind you are talking about, and the 40/40 grind (as popularized by Stuart Batty)?
 
This grind can also be accomplished on the platform. That is the "traditional" way that I few turners have shown me over the years. What you are doing is what's done the SRG, just with a bowl gouge instead.

Each turner has their own preferred way, usually inherited by whoever taught them! :)

Hello Gabriel......:)

As I have always understood it, very early bowl gouges were sharpened prior to platform sharpening......just rotated from a fixed point at the base of the handle. This is what I'm doing....with the help of the Wolverine to provide that fixed point.

We can discuss the when or where and how. Everyone can decide that for themselves, and it's really not the point......but, what I'm showing everyone here has been a concept for a long time.

=o=
 
I like to think I can claim credit for the swept back wings on bowl gouges. When I began turning in 1970 I had traditional Sorby flared Long and Strong bowl square-ground gouges. I kept catching the left wing when hollowing, so removed it. Then I soon discovered that when turning bowls the swept back wing was ideal for pull cuts that removed wood far faster than the traditional push cuts. Initially I had gouges with a sweptback left wing and square right wing, but these morphed into my asymmetric grind which I showed to Ray Key in around 1973 and which David Ellsworth, Michael O'Donnell, and Liam O'Neill saw Ray and myself demonstrate around 1980-81 when the woodturning revival was beginning to take off. The Ellsworth, O'Donnell, and Irish grinds became popular a few years later thanks to the proliferating specialist woodturning supply companies and the development of grinding jigs. Here's a link to how I use and grind an asymetric bowl gouge
View: https://youtu.be/cnNBBV19YLw
, and you'll see them in most of my bowl videos.

Howdy Richard......:)

I am honored.

You have been such a great inspiration to me in my early days of turning.....thank you. I still have your dog-eared early book and your first VHS tape around here.

I think the problem in this thread is too many concepts of what a "swept back" grind is and how it's done. I didn't use a platform for my swept back gouge grinds, but all were done on the original Wolverine Vari-grind jig.

I also think the performance of any grind can be evaluated by the results demonstrated.

All I'm doing here is to highlight a method that isn't on the radar anymore......but, should be! :)

=o=
 
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