I have several burnishing tools around the shop for both turning and flat work tools. 3/16 by 2 inch long carbide rods. I burnish the burr on my shear scrapers and my NRSs. My preferred NRS at this time is one that is ground 25 on top, and 60 on the bottom. I don't go through the process of stropping off the burr. I use the grinder burr till it is gone, then burnish down and back up. I do have one that is 45/45, and I need more practice with it. My theory is that you need a certain amount of metal under the burnished burr to support it. If I try to burnish a 30/30 skew for a burr, the edge seems to fracture. All of my shear scrapers are ground to 70 degrees, and like the NRSs, I use the grinder burr till dull, then burnish down and then back up. This process, on both tools can be done 2 to 4 times maybe before I hone off the old burr and grind a new one. With the NRS, that burr is gone in seconds. As Tom Wirsing said, "If you have to push at all, the tool is dull." I have experimented with honing a burr on my scrapers, which include my coring tools. While it does work, I get a better burr with a coarser stone. Some hone up and down, some go sideways. I think I prefer the sideways version. In all cases, the burnished burr lasts a lot longer than the grinder burr. You can burnish a burr on M2 hss with the traditional burnishing tools used for card scrapers, but I had much better luck with the triangle ones than I did with the round ones. I found it almost impossible to burnish a burr on the M42 and V10 tools with standard burnishing tools. I do not have one of the Veritas burnishing tools that you screw down to your work bench. Not positive, but I think they work best for standard scraper bevel angles, in the 60 to 70 degree range. Don't know how they would work with a NRS. With the proper burnishing tool, you do not need a lot of pressure.
robo hippy