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What’s on your lathe?

something different. a Styrofoam cannon, five feet by 14" at the bottom.
museum has received 19 cannons from a river dredge project and wants to display them. at 1200 lbs. each they don't move easy.
so, make a light sample for a display rack till they decide how. Will be covered and painted.
started as 20 x 20 block five feet long on a 3x3 wood spindle. used a chain saw to reduce it then a skew to shape it and sandpaper to finish.
a blower took care of clean up.
 

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David Anliker said:
something different. a Styrofoam cannon, five feet by 14" at the bottom.
museum has received 19 cannons from a river dredge project and wants to display them. at 1200 lbs. each they don't move easy.
so, make a light sample for a display rack till they decide how. Will be covered and painted.
started as 20 x 20 block five feet long on a 3x3 wood spindle. used a chain saw to reduce it then a skew to shape it and sandpaper to finish.
a blower took care of clean up.
Click to expand...
Very cool!
 
George Speed said:
No template on cardboard.
Click to expand...

If you want to duplicate a shape a template is ok. I made one before turning a bunch of eggs. We have chickens (and peacocks, and guineas, etc.) and I've seen a lot of turned eggs that didn't look egg quite right. So I picked what looked to me like a "typical" egg from the chicken house. (Note that eggs naturally have some variation.)

After considering some methods to make a template I mounted a tiny, bright LED light high on the ceiling, put the egg on a piece of paper, then traced the shadow outline with a pencil. Cut that out and first made a template.

1773953714438.jpeg

Here's a wooden chicken egg and a wooden peafowl egg:

1773953759014.jpeg

HOWEVER, for me profile templates can be a pain to use compared to a story stick: Measure the distance of the key features of a model from one end and make marks on a thin, flat piece of wood.

Can keep one prototype at hand and set the caliper to the key diameters after marking the positions on the rounded blank. Or shape one edge of the flat story stick to set the calipers directly at each key. If making only one or two duplicates it's quicker to just write down the diameters and set the sizing caliper from a scale or something. That's what I did for a one-of-a-kind custom handle for a friend who tunes my piano.

1773958769683.jpeg

This is the type of cheap caliper I use for sizing any spindle since the jaws are thin and fit easily into a parting tool groove. (The lower one does not yet have the corners on the jaws rounded over.)

1773954630598.jpeg

JKJ
 
Turned the first two pieces of Persimmon this morning should finish out at 13-3/4” x 10-3/4” x 7”. Found the black pith when I split the wood.
Someone said turn it thin because it is prone to crack so this one is 1/8” in thickness. I turned the second bowl (not pictured) 1/4” to compare.
I put a light under the bowl to show the thickness and will sand a little this afternoon or tomorrow morning, still very wet and flexible. I may CA the bark tomorrow also as the cambium layer seems fairly firm.

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David Wyke said:
Turned the first two pieces of Persimmon this morning should finish out at 13-3/4” x 10-3/4” x 7”. Found the black pith when I split the wood.
Someone said turn it thin because it is prone to crack so this one is 1/8” in thickness. I turned the second bowl (not pictured) 1/4” to compare.
I put a light under the bowl to show the thickness and will sand a little this afternoon or tomorrow morning, still very wet and flexible. I may CA the bark tomorrow also as the cambium layer seems fairly firm.

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David, I hope you post a pic when this is finished! It’s beautiful!
 
Dan Wiggin said:
David, I hope you post a pic when this is finished! It’s beautiful!
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I’ll be sure and post a picture but it may be a while as I’m a little slack finishing bowls. I have about 12 bowls and 3-4 hollow forms in various stages of finish. I go to the shop to complete the finish and end up turning instead of completing the finial finish😁
 
Michael Anderson said:
Another little birdie dropped off this Canarywood egg for a different project. Must be migration season. 🤔

View attachment 86362
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Ooo, ooo, now make one from Kingwood - one of my favorite species! And olive. And lignum vitae. And, goncolo alves. And purple spectra ply... (help me I can't stop)

Those are small! Will you now start making hummingbird eggs?
 
John K Jordan said:
Ooo, ooo, now make one from Kingwood - one of my favorite species! And olive. And lignum vitae. And, goncolo alves. And purple spectra ply... (help me I can't stop)

Those are small! Will you now start making hummingbird eggs?
Click to expand...
Funny you mention the purple spectraply, I almost made one out of green and blue, but didn’t fit the plan. For the future though! 😊

Would be cool to make a few little hummingbird eggs. Vegetable ivory could be a good material for that. On the to-do list!

I have that little piece of Kingwood you gave me a while back. Still reserved for the future project. On a related note, last month I was in NC for a demo and visited a wood dealer Catawba). They had old Kingwood cants that were probably 8” square and 4 feet long. A pallet full. Couldn’t believe it when they told me the species. Don’t dare ask the price of one—would have been WAY out of my range.

Ted Pelfrey said:
Loving these tiny little eggs! Keep us posted the the project they are meant for.
Click to expand...
Thanks Ted—will do!!
 
Tom Gall said:
Didn't know Sycamores laid eggs !?! 😇 😜
Also didn't know that a Canary can lay a wooden egg. Sorry! ;)
Are these for another "egg-ceptional" project?
Click to expand...
Hahaha, we’re on the same page there. Chose the canary wood for the “canary” 😉 Sycamore is just a cool wood that may or may not be the one I use (might turn a small Holly egg instead). We’ll see. Hollys lay eggs right?
 
Michael Anderson said:
Funny you mention the purple spectraply, I almost made one out of green and blue, but didn’t fit the plan. For the future though! 😊
Click to expand...
I think I have 17 color combinations of spectra ply if you want a certain color. And acrylic, if you spot an acrylic bird but it laid the egg too high in the tree to steal. I took advantage of the supply of spectra ply Pete Kekel brought to a symposium Sometimes I cut out an angled piece before turning. I've considered gluing two 2x2s together to make an extra wide piece to cut at a more of an angle.

1774206865136.jpeg

Do you remember Dymondwood? I loved that stuff and used it often. When I checked into getting more I heard the factory had burned down. It was kind of like spectraply but almost looked like a glued stack of veneer was veneer-sliced again on an angle then reglued. Very unique patterns. I don't have even a gram of that stuff left.

The two wands in the center are DymondWood; the shaft of one on the second pic.
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These are all from LONG time ago when I started experimenting with wands. Just went crazy and tried everything I could imagine. It's still fun to look at some of the early designs when I feel I'm in a rut and need a shot of inspiration.

Michael Anderson said:
They had old Kingwood cants that were probably 8” square and 4 feet long. A pallet full. Couldn’t believe it when they told me the species. Don’t dare ask the price of one—would have been WAY out of my range.
Click to expand...
Hey, maybe we could go in on one together. I'm scheduled for a demo near Charlotte, looks like Catawba Timber is not far out of the way if I get off 40 at Morganton. Prices of these things have gone sky high. I stopped a local dealer a couple of years ago and they wanted $600 for a small cocobolo log, maybe 6" dia, round with the pith and sapwood, maybe 4' long, wasn't even a decent cant. If that's the going price for rosewoods I'd better invest in a bigger safe and lock up the rest of mine. And list it in my will in case I kick off suddenly!

Did I mention I LOVE Kingwood? I like the purple/brown color, the texture, the feel, the way it turns and sands - one of my favorite rosewoods. And I can't believe I gave you even a small piece - I'm REAL stingy with it. :)

The handle of the short conductors baton here, a "finger baton," is Kingwood.
(custom batons are VERY popular with all kinds of conductors - I'm glad I don't like making things to sell or I'd stay too busy to stop and eat.)
From the top: dogwood, olive, kingwood, ebony/ebony, cocobolo.
1774208437411.jpeg

JKJ
 
John K Jordan said:
I think I have 17 color combinations of spectra ply if you want a certain color. And acrylic, if you spot an acrylic bird but it laid the egg too high in the tree to steal. I took advantage of the supply of spectra ply Pete Kekel brought to a symposium Sometimes I cut out an angled piece before turning. I've considered gluing two 2x2s together to make an extra wide piece to cut at a more of an angle.

View attachment 86371

Do you remember Dymondwood? I loved that stuff and used it often. When I checked into getting more I heard the factory had burned down. It was kind of like spectraply but almost looked like a glued stack of veneer was veneer-sliced again on an angle then reglued. Very unique patterns. I don't have even a gram of that stuff left.

The two wands in the center are DymondWood; the shaft of one on the second pic.
View attachment 86372
View attachment 86373
These are all from LONG time ago when I started experimenting with wands. Just went crazy and tried everything I could imagine. It's still fun to look at some of the early designs when I feel I'm in a rut and need a shot of inspiration.


Hey, maybe we could go in on one together. I'm scheduled for a demo near Charlotte, looks like Catawba Timber is not far out of the way if I get off 40 at Morganton. Prices of these things have gone sky high. I stopped a local dealer a couple of years ago and they wanted $600 for a small cocobolo log, maybe 6" dia, round with the pith and sapwood, maybe 4' long, wasn't even a decent cant. If that's the going price for rosewoods I'd better invest in a bigger safe and lock up the rest of mine. And list it in my will in case I kick off suddenly!

Did I mention I LOVE Kingwood? I like the purple/brown color, the texture, the feel, the way it turns and sands - one of my favorite rosewoods. And I can't believe I gave you even a small piece - I'm REAL stingy with it. :)

The handle of the short conductors baton here, a "finger baton," is Kingwood.
(custom batons are VERY popular with all kinds of conductors - I'm glad I don't like making things to sell or I'd stay too busy to stop and eat.)
From the top: dogwood, olive, kingwood, ebony/ebony, cocobolo.
View attachment 86375

JKJ
Click to expand...
I have a nice piece of Kingwood I need to dig out of my stash. I’ll post the size once I find it.
 
David Wyke said:
I have a nice piece of Kingwood I need to dig out of my stash. I’ll post the size once I find it.
Click to expand...

And did I hear you say you wanted to trade it for a persimmon log? A peacock? I could bring one in the car :)

I bought my last piece from a guy who has over 300 species of wood in his wood storage room Most 2x2. I've never seen anything he's turned - don't know if he does turn. He has called when he plans to make a purchase to see if I want to go in on it. That's why I have a pile of redwood on one shelf.
 
Alan Weinberg said:
You’ve sure got that natural edge form down—grest balance and all that bark!
Click to expand...
It takes a little finesse sometimes😁. I get it as close as possible in the beginning then work from the bark down to about the finished diameter. I do this about half way down the height of the bowl. I can see the lines better and make my tail stock adjustment to even the bark edges out. Then work on the bottom making the tenon before flipping around. Most of the time it works out.
 
David Wyke said:
It takes a little finesse sometimes😁. I get it as close as possible in the beginning then work from the bark down to about the finished diameter. I do this about half way down the height of the bowl. I can see the lines better and make my tail stock adjustment to even the bark edges out. Then work on the bottom making the tenon before flipping around. Most of the time it works out.
Click to expand...
Great form on the natural edge bowls David. Really like the proportions and how your process. Got to try moving the project after turning the diameter like you said. What are the dimensions of the natural edge bowls you turned, thickness? How long do you let them dry before applying finish? Again, really enjoy and admire your work.
 
Norm Marentette said:
Great form on the natural edge bowls David. Really like the proportions and how your process. Got to try moving the project after turning the diameter like you said. What are the dimensions of the natural edge bowls you turned, thickness? How long do you let them dry before applying finish? Again, really enjoy and admire your work.
Click to expand...
Thanks Norm, these average around 12” x 10-11”. Thickness on two are 1/8”, one is 1/4”, and one 3/16”. I usually try for 1/4”- 3/8” on natural edge but wanted to try a few thinner to see how they warp. I plan to turn 6-8 more and will stay at the 1/4-3/8 thickness on those.
I usually let them dry for around 8 weeks and I do go by weight to determine when dry. I’m trying to turn all the green wood I can right now as I do more final turnings during the summer when it’s too hot to work with the chainsaw to make bowl blanks. Planning on doing several hollow forms also.
 
@David Wyke love those natural edge bowls, and your opposing friend gave me a big smile. Such cool animals!

@John K Jordan I’m forever grateful for the Kingwood and the others. And also the couple of the commercial milk crates—those things are SO handy!

Hmm, still not sure I could afford going in on the Kingwood cant. But I am curious—I may reach out and see what the cost is, just to know. Stay tuned! Love those photos you posted. Nice set of batons. Takes me back to my music days.

Those dymondwood wands are incredible too. What a pattern!

Oh, I put one of the pieces of Tupelo on the lathe last night. Destined to become a captured spin top (paired with some pretty Indian Laurel). Tupelo is really interesting. Might be the lightest (weight) fine-grained wood I’ve ever worked. Turns and sands well.

IMG_4905.jpeg
 
Michael Anderson said:
Tupelo is really interesting. Might be the lightest (weight) fine-grained wood I’ve ever worked. Turns and sands well.
Click to expand...
Tupelo sure is light weight and fine grained. Basswood is lighter but I like turning the Tupelo better. Both are good for chip carving but mostly I use Basswood since I have a bunch.
1774367640779.jpeg

BTW, all the Tupelo I have came from a gentleman in the Chattanooga club (a bunch of years ago). All the basswood is the "good stuff" from Wisconsin.

I forget, do you have Madrone? It's also great to turn (and carve). I got some from Graeme Priddle and some figured Madrone from Pete Kekel. Make a quick drive-by run when you get low on wood. I'm processing more cherry, walnut, cedar, persimmon, and y.poplar now for drying. We can take down a sassafras or something else. I love trees but some need to be removed.
 
John K Jordan said:
Tupelo sure is light weight and fine grained. Basswood is lighter but I like turning the Tupelo better. Both are good for chip carving but mostly I use Basswood since I have a bunch.

BTW, all the Tupelo I have came from a gentleman in the Chattanooga club (a bunch of years ago). All the basswood is the "good stuff" from Wisconsin.

I forget, do you have Madrone? It's also great to turn (and carve). I got some from Graeme Priddle and some figured Madrone from Pete Kekel. Make a quick drive-by run when you get low on wood. I'm processing more cherry, walnut, cedar, persimmon, and y.poplar now for drying. We can take down a sassafras or something else. I love trees but some need to be removed.
Click to expand...
Oh right, Basswood! I’ve carved it a bit a while ago, but haven’t turned it.

Interesting about the Tupelo provenance. I do have a couple of chunks of Madrone (some burl from Brad Adams, and a spindle blank from Kevin Jesequel), but might take you up on some more in the future. I seem to remember you having some curly madrone 🤔 🤔

I might also take you up on your offer of some more “other wood” too. 😁 Hey, I’ll be in your neck of the woods in April to demo at SMWT.
 
Norm Marentette said:
Great form on the natural edge bowls David. Really like the proportions and how your process. Got to try moving the project after turning the diameter like you said. What are the dimensions of the natural edge bowls you turned, thickness? How long do you let them dry before applying finish? Again, really enjoy and admire your work.
Click to expand...
Norm, I was turning this one this morning and snapped a couple of pictures to show how I line the bowl up.
I knock the corners off on the bottom and then go to the headstock and work my way down to the point I can see the bark edge on all sides. Once I get to that point I line it up and this one I had to move about 1/4” to get it balanced. I know I have 2-3 more passes now to get the final shape. I also clean up any tool make with shear cuts,

I then move back to the tailstock and work my way towards the headstock and establish the foot and tenon. I then make my final pass from the headstock all the way down the bowl to establish my final shape. This is with a freshly sharp gouge and light cuts. Form is more important to me than size of the bowl.
Once I turn the inside I do green sanding with 80 grit and sometimes flip the bowl around on a jam chuck and reduce the foot to about 1/4” of finished dimension. I do this before the bowl has time to warp however I leave the tenon with enough size so when dry I can put a 2” tenon on since I like to remount for final sanding.
This is just what works for me, not saying it’s the best or correct way.

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11 x 1

sycamore plate for cookies. Can't really call it a candy dish. Time to pass it off to my sister for some design and color.

For whatever reason she wanted the embellishment on the bottom..... I didn't argue, keeps her busy.
 

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