Aaron,
That's incredible! But noting your comment "
I can't take any credit for the beautiful wood" reminds me of the ancient Woodturner's Insult: if you can't think of anything positive about a piece just say: "My, what beautiful wood!"

In your case, of course, the form, turning, and surface also look incredible! Hard to tell from a picture though - send it to me for a closer look. Oops, just missed my birthday...
For rims, edges (and lots of other things), I make two sizes of plywood sanding sticks, 2" wide and 1" wide - I use spray adhesive to fasten a different grit to each side of a stick. I write the grit on the edges with a little arrow pointing to one face. I use 1/2" Raiata ply, smooth on both sides.
These are well-used 2" wide sanding sticks, overdue for replacement. (I've replaced the sandpaper twice since then!)
View attachment 76767
Speaking of sanding sticks: Besides working on thin edges like you mention, it's surprising how often I use these.
I also make one BIG sanding "stick", 2"x2"x18", with coarse sandpaper fastened to one side that was milled flat. Made and used per Harvey Meyer's suggestion: hold against the spinning thick rims of independently turned layers for glue-ups for things like Beads of Courage boxes. The goal is to make the joints perfectly flat while they are still on the lathe, after the partial hollowing is complete, just before glue up. Works well. This was with kiln dried 8/4 stock, cherry, with a basswood layer for carving.
View attachment 76770 View attachment 76771
I've made several BOC boxes with this method from various woods. It's a LOT easier than hollowing one solid chunk.
You think I used enough clamps???
View attachment 76772
I have camphor blocks but I've never even seen one close to that gorgeous.
If you go by Brad's again, when you get home please put me in your will. I'm pretty sure I'll go first, though...
JKJ