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What’s on your lathe?

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Assuming a previously "stabilized" piece of wood changes it's MC as it's moved to another location....is it not also stabilized in the new location?

-o-

So they are stable for now, until something changes, so it's stabilized for now, a good thing until the equilibrium is thrown off
That is why I hate the term "stabilized" since wood will always equalize with it's current environment which has a tendency to change with the seasons.
 

odie

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That is why I hate the term "stabilized" since wood will always equalize with it's current environment which has a tendency to change with the seasons.

Well, Don.....if I use the term "stabilized", I hope you don't get confused as to what I mean by that...

-o-
 
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Work continues on the black cherry burl. I managed to get 2 cores from it. Drying will be interesting as there are several shakes within the burl. It turned out to be a swirl burl as opposed to a mass of dominant buds. But the colour and grain look very promising. Now it’s a waiting game as drying commences. There’s an expansion recess on the bottom of the largest bowl that will allow me to true up the bottom tenon after it has dried.

IMG_1850.jpegIMG_1851.jpeg
 

odie

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I am not confused by it I am just pointing out the stupidity of it.

Just wondering if you realize that even if wood is not relocated to another environment, it still fluctuates in weight on a regular basis.....

Stabilized is just as accurate as equilibrium..

-o-
 
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Just wondering if you realize that even if wood is not relocated to another environment, it still fluctuates in weight on a regular basis.....

Stabilized is just as accurate as equilibrium..

-o-
The words "equalize with current environment" obviously covers moving and seasonal changes like heating your home or shop and moving to a different area.
Read the first page of "Hoadley's" Understanding wood chapter 5 where he lists 5 fundamental approaches to coping with dimensional change in wood and the one approach that uses the word "stabilization" has the word chemical before it.
 

odie

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The words "equalize with current environment" obviously covers moving and seasonal changes like heating your home or shop and moving to a different area.
Read the first page of "Hoadley's" Understanding wood chapter 5 where he lists 5 fundamental approaches to coping with dimensional change in wood and the one approach that uses the word "stabilization" has the word chemical before it.

The term "stabilize" is equally applicable.

As the turning vocabulary and philosophy changes through a definite evolutionary process....what is, seems to always be a variable, and not a constant.

I will, and have since it's inception, related the newer term "equilibrium" to what always has been.....and do not find it opposed to old thinking.....

Be cool, Don.....and, allow others their space and thinking..... :)

-o-
 

hockenbery

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I'm told that equilibrium is more appropriate, because the MC may change if the wood travels from one climate to another......but, doesn't the word stabilize actually mean exactly the same thing

Stabilized kind of leads down the Cactus Juice trail.

stabilize - verb - make or become unlikely to change, fail, or decline

That is why I hate the term "stabilized" since wood will always equalize with it's current environment which has a tendency to change with the seasons.

We do need a woodturning dictionary. To me Stabilized would require a process(cactus juice) to keep the wood from changing MC with a new environment.

It easier to communicate when words mean something similar to the communicators.
 
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Work continues on the black cherry burl. I managed to get 2 cores from it. Drying will be interesting as there are several shakes within the burl. It turned out to be a swirl burl as opposed to a mass of dominant buds. But the colour and grain look very promising. Now it’s a waiting game as drying commences. There’s an expansion recess on the bottom of the largest bowl that will allow me to true up the bottom tenon after it has dried.

View attachment 52903View attachment 52904

Is the expansion recess used for a particular reason over the usual method? I watched one of Raffans new videos the other day and he put one in also on a smaller item. Is it used with certain woods or shapes/sizes over just using a friction chuck on the inside?
 
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We do need a woodturning dictionary. To me Stabilized would require a process(cactus juice) to keep the wood from changing MC with a new environment.

It easier to communicate when words mean something similar to the communicators.

I think a list for the newbies of the abbreviations would be good. Some of them didn't exactly jump out at me with what they were when I first started on the forum.

Younger crowd, some initials mean different things than what they would mean to an experienced turner.

MC- moisture content or master of ceremonies or a rapper. As an example.
Etc.
 

odie

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I think a list for the newbies of the abbreviations would be good. Some of them didn't exactly jump out at me with what they were when I first started on the forum.

Younger crowd, some initials mean different things than what they would mean to an experienced turner.

MC- moisture content or master of ceremonies or a rapper. As an example.
Etc.

A reference list of abbreviations, or the dictionary of woodturning terms that @hockenbery suggests would be a good thing. I doubt it would be feasible, though.....because we have so many differing points of view!

-o-
 
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More practice - nothing fancy! WIP - small lidded bowl. About 5 inches in diameter and 3 inches tall. Body is Elm - first time turning this wood, but I thought it turned nicely. Had my gouge sharp enough to do a nice job on the outside - started sanding the outside at 120 grit (instead of 60 or 80 as usual), and likely could have started higher - hand sanding only as well. Had more difficulty with the gouge hollowing the inside - my technique needs refinement here. Lid will be white ash with a walnut finial. Details at 11!
Be safe and stay well.
Barry W. Larson
Calgary, Alberta, Canada eh!
 

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Joined
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Lou, not holly, but maple that has been bleached then several coats of poly/floor finish, title Mahout.
 
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A reference list of abbreviations, or the dictionary of woodturning terms that @hockenbery suggests would be a good thing. I doubt it would be feasible, though.....because we have so many differing points of view!

-o-
Could always have people write their omnibus then everyone could vote to see which is liked.
 

odie

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Could always have people write their omnibus then everyone could vote to see which is liked.

Our own constitutional republic should give you perspective on why it's a better method.....than a democracy..... :)

Those who have been convinced that there are more than two genders, is reason enough to understand why this is so.....

-o-
 
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Is the expansion recess used for a particular reason over the usual method? I watched one of Raffans new videos the other day and he put one in also on a smaller item. Is it used with certain woods or shapes/sizes over just using a friction chuck on
The expansion recess is my usual method. I use it on most large wet bowls I turn, saves me from cutting one after the bowl has dried. So with the bowl in the expansion recess, I true up the tenon and finish turn the outside of the bowl. Then flip it and grip it by the tenon and finish turn the inside. This allows me to do all the finish turning on the outboard. If I use a friction chuck, it has to be between centres.
 
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I promised so further details on my elm box, so here they are - sorid as they may be. I had a bad catch on the original subject and cracked the rim. The crack didn't extend far in the interlocking elm grain so I just turned the rim down and made the body of the box a bit shorter. I also took the opportunity to turn a second blank as additional practice. I made the lids from some ash I had on hand and the finials are walnut. One has an inset lid with a simple stepped pattern and a vaguely eastern or oriental finial. The other box (the one that was shortened) has a overlay lid. I.got a bit more creative here (well for me anyway) and used a droplet of water as inspiration. The concentric rings represent the ripples and the finial is the backsplash from the drop. Although difficult to see the grain of the ash looks a bit like reflections in water. I stuck in the picture I got the idea from. I also textured the outside by using a stiff wire brush on the outside at a slow lath speed (500 rpm). The difference between the early and late woodbine the elm gives a neat effect (again my opinion). Ended up being a fun exercise, learned a few things along the way - which is the object of any experiment.
Be safe and stay well.
Barry W. Larson
Calgary, Alberta, Canada eh!
 

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Joined
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Just brought 3 bowls in, but one has to have more work done to it, as I saw some scratches on the inside, so some sanding has to be done on this one.

It is from some nice Figured Maple and the bottom still has to be finish turned, I thought the inside was done, and so took it off the lathe to do the underside, but no, more work on it.
Maple bowl.jpgMaple bottom.jpg
 
Last edited:
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The expansion recess is my usual method. I use it on most large wet bowls I turn, saves me from cutting one after the bowl has dried. So with the bowl in the expansion recess, I true up the tenon and finish turn the outside of the bowl. Then flip it and grip it by the tenon and finish turn the inside. This allows me to do all the finish turning on the outboard. If I use a friction chuck, it has to be between centres.

Another newbie question? Does it stay more stable for when it is dry? My luck I would think it would go out of round so much it would be like how a tenon on the outside ends up. Is it dependent on the wood species or just luck?

**edit**
I just put some more thought into it and I guess it would only work on pretty big bowls or a thin platter because otherwise how would you get to the chuck to tighten it when it's down inside?
 
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